trackpig

Would you care to elaborate on that ?

Wow. Cool story. Are you the Stig? BTW, any road car is a compromise and can be improved to suit a particular drivers wishes. The fact that the Z can be improved from standard is no great news flash, the same can be said about most cars.

I think RXS may well be a "straight line jockey" as i mentioned earlier. Its sounds like you are missing the push from the turbo that you are used to in some of the other cars you mention. The Z engine will only show its best when you use all the revs, they is no point driving it around at 3k rev and complaining its slow. If you really want to fall in love with the Z, get booked onto a trackday, turn the TC off and drive it properly. Alternatively, sell the Z and ride the low down torque in your vectra

Fair enough. Enjoy your Z. Learn it slowly and get it driven

Come before this advice - Who are you? The OP's mammy?

There are too many people these days who say 300bhp cars are easy to drive quickly. I normaly find alot of these people dont turn the TC off and are "straight line jockeys". Get the TC off, go and drive it properly and then come back and say its normal.

Since the power of your Z is now normal to you, try it with the TC turned off. Thats when the learning curve will become more apparent. Is this your first rear wheel drive car?

Ive heard that on that section of road, if the variable limit is not displayed, the cameras are not in action. Speed camera's

Clio's are good for what they are but ultimately the Z is a superior car. In this vid I lap with a couple of semi slicked 1*2's. All good fun! I tried to embed the vid but dont know how to

Research the nurburgring lap times for both the clio and the Z. That should give an idea how how quick both cars are over a mix of corners/ straights.

I would be very suprised if what was in an F1 drivers red bull drinks bottle was actualy red bull

I just hope he had a set of matched tyres all round Camera angles can make the action look closer than it is in real life. I enjoyed the vid.

Post up the details of the price please

Hi all, I have used the Z on track and have often thought the standard diff could do with a bit more lock up to help get the power down out of tighter corners. I am not talking about fitting aftermarket diffs or welding the diff, I want the car to be usable on the road and track. I came across a thread that details the process of adding a shim to a viscous diff to help transmit more drive to the wheel with more grip. http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/200226-sh ... -vlsd.html Any info, experience or views?

If your cambers are reading -1deg24min and -1deg20min, then i would not worry about it. This tiny amount of extra camber on one wheel and will not effect things. I would expect the car is pulling to one side due to the toe being out whats the toe measurements?

Disconnect a front anti roll bar link and see if the problem goes. Its easy and free to do. I had an anti roll bar link knock on mine.

Nice work. It is nice when the tyres get a chance to demonstrate their abilities in such a way! I am happy with my sv-2's for winter and my federal rsr's for summer set-up. Best of both worlds.

Are you asking about SV-2's or another type of Nankang?

Do you want to try that again, you dont make any sense sometimes.

Sorry but I have sv-2 tyres fitted to my car at the moment, they are not dangerous at all. They actualy grip quite well in the wet. They serve their purpose very well- they are winter tyres, for use in low temps, snow and wet conditions. I will be swopping back to my summer tyres when the weather allows it.

Have you set the damper length to suit the spring height? If the damper is set too long or short, it can cause it to bottom out or over extend- and knock.

My car had a stiff clutch pedal. It was down to the release bearing pivot arm becoming seized. I had the clutch changed and the release arm pivot freed off, cleaned and greased. The clutch is now nice and light. This mod may well work but you may only be masking a problem else where.

A quick update I took a look inside there before reading some of the replys/ links in this thread. The board did indeed look ok. The grey box shaped component did look like a relay to me so it tried to pop the cover off it. I suspected a faulty relay would give the problem I was having. It seems the cover is attached to the relay inside. Prying the cover off looked like it was going to damage the coil so I stopped at this point and thought about sorcing a new board. I reassembled and tested- all is working 100% (and has been for the past week) It definatly seems the relay on these board is the issue- dry joint, poor spring etc. I then looked at this thread which confirmed the relay problem! I do love a cheap fix. Thanks for the replies and link

No problem, anytime

Thanks for the links Dblock. I think I will pull out the small amp next to the sub and inspect it. It could possibly be something easy like a broken wire.