evilscorp

So I have given up with the floor to get the car ready for japfest also it hasn't 100% worked so need to see if some of it has bonded properly with the floor (lack of SBR or PVA prior was probably the issue.) Finally though I have somewhere it is a pleasure to work and the lack of any swear words being used is magic!! So good having a nice warm dry space to work with plenty of room. car in and work ready to begin! new battery terminals needed as jdm connectors are smaller but they were knackered anyway. rubber gasket to act as a spacer/shock absorber between the sideskirts and fenders. the wrap should cover them to help blend in better. Errrrmmm not sure i used the correct screws, had a few spare. Not ideal doing so many jobs ages ago as i kinda forgot where they all go other door card finally on. bumper off for light wiring fixes and boot release bracket fabrication + diffuser. soon to be stripped bare.

Don't do it buy something that is faster, unless you love the 350z as you will get bored with the power and want more =financial ruin. But if you keep cars standard you won't loose as much money. Or as jet pilot says but one that is already charged.

So that went well...... shame that my dads drill packed in need to wait till next weekend when I can have some helpers again as this stuff sets quick and the spiked shoes arn't the best for running about in. Tomorrow should show if its worked and if I should carry on and do the rest + maybe another thin layer ontop of the stuff already poured.

I've never had det but the spare engine i bought off ebay had it bad one of the valves had a chunk broken off it and the top of that cylinder got a bit banged up so I ended getting a spare head from Alex, but i don't trust putting valves back in if they have been exposed to det. Also they are caked in crud and couldn't be arsed cleaning them

The rough casters left some material so the plan tomorrow is move it to my dads garage and then start the prep for the self leveling compound. Brush all the dust out, wash the floor with some cleaner then mask off the edges and stick cardboard down the pit cover and front door to stop it from leaking out. Hope to have the family ready to pour it on sunday morning then a few days to harden and then finally THE Z WILL BE HOME! (then kicked out again after japfest so I can lay the fancy resin floor )

bump

Thanks Stevie, Yeah I would have reused my valves but one of the heads has been detonating and the spare head (which i ain't using) had damaged valves so I imagine the head i am using has weak valves so better to replace, cam's just kinda happened, didn't plan on them but since my engine wont be ready for japfest i had the machine shop money laying about and some extra overtime at work changed the plan. Just use a brass wire wheel to clean up the valve seats and valves and then use the lapping tool and paste and you should be good to go!

It's still always advisable to check clearance once assembled. Best way is to only put the main timing chain on and one sprocket(think it's the exhaust) and only that cam, then you can move it one tooth forward from its normal timing Mark to account for valve timing changes. The JWT C9 cams need milling of the head, so any other cams that are that extreme would also need work.

Hi Rob, no there shouldn't be any clearance issues with the head casting like you get on some of the high lift cams which need metal removed for the lobes to spin freely. As for piston to valve clearance, this will be reduced due to the 2mm? (Need to check) increased opening, but this is more a case of timing setup rather than larger reliefs being cut in the tops of the pistons

Needed to be kept hidden from the missus

Thanks Torqen

what size hub ring is fitted? what kind of car did they come off?

Building a heavy duty workbench for a vice, not sure what surface to use? galvanized or stainless steel? thinking about 1.5mm so I can bend/hammer it round the edge of the bench. . . . . then I also need a totally steel bench for welding... but that can wait.

Well the emulsion paint didn't dry I think its the sealant my dad gave me that is the issue so I have bought some PVA to try on the rest of the walls and see how the paint drys with that as a primer. Also bought this Should help cut down the time to primer the bodykit before wrapping.

have you adjusted the spring to dampener height ratio? who fitted them?

yeah Dante is a 10 month old whippet, 35mph but can't stop, could use a set of brembos the poor wee guy.

Not as good as yours, also looked through your build thread (as usual before i tackle any job) and realized i could have probably installed a floor lift like yourself but set the max height so the car was just clear of the roof

started to prime the walls for paint with some stuff for sealing concrete blocks outside so should do the trick for inside too, then a few coats or one thick coat of white emulsion paint, nothing fancy for the walls as they are for light reflection mostly and will have some hangers/shelves and tool boards attached soon. Just waiting on the outside smooth casting to be finished and the pit cover being made. The builder also said he was hiring a grinder to smooth the floor, not that bothered as I have ordered 11bags of Cempolay Ultra Levelling Compound, a spiky roller and some weird spike shoes to help apply the stuff. Then it will hopefully get a coat of this or what I really want

haltech.

SFL, but after a google, I can't find the shop anymore

I think a few of us bought some from some motorsport website but for the life of me I can't remember the name sts or something, mine had a fuel pressure/ oil temp and was priced at the lower end of the market, unlike my aem stuff, its in the attic so I will have a hunt for the name tomorrow.

You killed your engine! probably not the best person to ask for mechanical sympathy!

Leave that garage, compression test is done through the spark plug tubes and has nothing to do with the crankcase pressure as its for checking piston compression. The spark plug tube seals go on these cam covers (rocker covers) regularly, Torqen sells a kit to replace them or buy new/replacement ones off zmanalex. Probably either your piston rings are worn or the stem seals are passing.

Hello

How bad is the actual damage? are the valves bent into the pistons? have you had a look down the spark plugs with a camera? never know could get lucky and put new timing gear on the front and reset the timing and away you go? Or the valves snapped as they hit the top of the piston scoring the bores completely f@~* the engine. Just if you like the car maybe see if its worth saving?