The loads that are exerted on a tow hook are different from those exerted on a towing eye ...... a towing eye has to be strong enough to take a direct tensile load only whereas a towing hook will have to take the same tensile load plus the vertical load that the trailer exerts (unless the trailer's perfectly balanced of course) .........this additional vertical load will translate into a moment caused by the lever arm length of the tow hook which in turn will cause flexure at the point where it's fixed to the bumper strut ......the result ....failure at the point where the towing arm fixes to the bumper strut, damaging the strut and allowing the trailer to become detached from the car..............so you and the Z could end up at your destination, however, the tow hook, trailer and anything that was on the trailer will definitely not
Right.............................and you think what the OP wanted to do: "It's for towing a small trailer carrying a racing Kart or Motorcycle to and from the race track" would result in such a failure?.................only asking
I don't think any tow bar manufacturer would take the chance of someone overloading even a small trailer with say, a pack of bricks or something heavy like a piano. I was just trying to explain the difference in the loads exerted on the car and pointing out the considerations that any DIYer would need to take into account when trying to fabricate a solution. The consequences of failure could be catastrophic so any advice given in good faith, especially if that advice is given by an expert in the given field, (not saying that I am but I do know a bit about structural design) should be guarded, otherwise you'll maybe end up giving evidence in a court of law and the excuse "Husky told me to do it" when all your lights fuse at 140 mph, will not stand up
I'm getting all serious now aren't I ...... I've turned into El Bisque ....... sorry about that .... let's gat back to Zedding