Cookbot

It's not too hard and is a great way to learn how you Z works. I doubt you'll break anything, just probably do things in a daft order and have to remove parts you've just fitted and annoy your self. Torque wrenches can be bought cheap from machine mart or Halfrauds if you have a trade card. ...or you can just keep tightening it till it cracks then back quarter of a turn! (DON'T DO THIS!!!)

And if you get a second car, you don't get one that only does 44mpg. Closer to 70 for most crap diesel runabouts and tires cost £30 not £150ish. It's made a massive difference to my cash flow.

I'm now also including these to make the splicing easier, just put the wires in, squeeze with pliers and close the cover. Job done. Those who have paid and have had them dispatched, I'll send them separately.

I had a feeling that splicing may prove awkward, so I'm going to supply the kits with 3 of these. Just place the main loom wire and the additional one in, press the metal bit down with pliers and click the cover down. Splice done....

This is work in progress and should be finished in the next few days. Unconnected your battery before you start!!!!! Tools needed: -10mm socket and extension -flat blade screw driver -Chisel or other similar levering tool -Electrical tape -Pliers and strong hands or a crimp tool. Wilkinsons do one for about £4 http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/Pliers+Wrenches/Wilko-4-Way-Crimping-Tool/invt/0209039?htxt=a%2Bk6UmXXj8ov9peURU0Fk7%2Ber6KMt6OppX1KXu1exPCbh4ZCYpvCpHrHwPjSm%2BRJYWXHAJYBzAPU%0AHJZdANswow%3D%3D 1a) You'll need to remove the inner door panel to access the lock. To do this, you'll need a lever of some kind (I use a wood chisel), a 10mm socket and extension, a flat head screwdriver and a sheet or blanket to rest the door inner on while you're working. 1b) (skip if on facelift 06+ car) use a flat head screwdriver to lever out the little round cover where you put your hand to close the door and remove the screw. 2) First you need to lever out the inner door panel where the controls are. I used a wood chisel and a piece of tape to protect it. 3)Use your screw driver to free the 2 white plugs which attach to this control unit. There's a small part you can push in to free the plug. 4) You then need to remove the plastic cover that lives behind your door handle. I again used a piece of tape to protect things 5) This will reveal a 10mm bolt which you need to remove. Don't worry too much if you drop it, you'll see it again soon! 6) Now remove the 2 remaining bolts you uncovered earlier on. 7) Now it's time to remove the panel, find the 2 indentations at the bottom of the door and give a firm tug on the plastic. 8) Once the clips are off the cover is only held on by hooking over the window frame at the top, it will just slide up and pull away. 9) (skip if on pre 06 non facelift car) Use your flat screwdriver to remove this gray plug, it's the same style of design as the 2 white ones earlier on. 10) I found it easier to remove the door inner altogether so I could work in comfort. The white parts of this just pull up and slide out releasing the door inner. 11) Now it's time for wiring, just take your time and will all be fine. It might be worth stripping back some of the black insulation that surrounds the loom to give you a little extra space, but be very gentle with it and don't slice though any cable insulation. There are 3 wires which need to be spliced (this is just joining another wire to an existing wire) and 2 wires which need to be cut. This makes the 4 points to connect wires to. You can either strip back a little of the insulation, twist and solder the wire on if you're up to the task or just use the provided red quick splice. Just put in the loom wire followed by the wire I've provided. Press the metal tab down with pliers locking the wires in place then close the cover. 12) First, find the White wire that connects to to the larger of the 2 white connectors you undid early on, splice the white wire to it. The diagram shows as though you are looking into the back of it (ie the way the wires enter) 13) Now find the other smaller connector block and the black wire that comes from this. Splice on the Black wire. 14) On the same small connector there's a turquoise wire that needs to have the pink wire spliced to it. (Pink was the only colour wire available that was suitable thickness) 15) Now you need to cut 2 wires and crimp on the supplied connectors so you have a total of 4 terminations (little red connectors) The first is the purple wire, snip in two, but leave enough wire so you can crimp on to both wires. It's worth anticipating if you fook it up and making sure you have enough wire to cut it short and have another go or 2. The purple wire connects into the smaller white connector. 16) Time to cut the second wire. This should be a grey wire again on the smaller white connector. Again my 06 Z had a different wire, but this time was white with a green stripe on it. Check where the wire enters the white connector on the wiring diagram to be sure. With both wires cut it should look a little like this 17) Now it's time to crimp on the supplied connectors. Pay attention to which style of connector is fitted to which wire. This is so if you decide you don't want the unit fitted you can just plug the wires back together and it will all work just as normal and no more wire cutting or crimping is needed. 18) Connect the: Grey wire that goes to the white connector to the Grey wire on the unit. - Grey to Grey Purple wire that goes to the white connector to the Purple wire on the unit - Purple to Purple Grey wire that goes off into the car loom to the Yellow wire on the unit - Grey to Yellow Purple wire that goes off into the car loom to the Green wire on the unit. - Purple to Green 19) The micro switch will need gluing on the lock so is activated when the car is opened or one member has told me he used self tapping screws. You will be able to see how the lock activates the microswitch. You may also need to manipulate the lever so it acts on the lock mechanism. Be careful though, it's delicate. You also need to make sure that when the car moves the lock (when you do it off the car key fob) it actually activates the micro switch as it sometimes doesn't move all the way. Lock the door with the lock cables reconnected, but so you can see. 20) Now it's all wired up, reconnect your battery and test the lock on the handle. 21) Refitting the plastics is just the opposite of removing. The relay unit can be stuck on to a piece of foam that sits behind the window controls or find your own little place for it and use the strips of double sided sticky foam. All done!!!

Oh yea, pedals off too. So that's a 15mm spanner, a 4mm and 5mm hex key. Sorted!

Yes, yes it will. I've had my XL Giant anthem and my size 60cm Ribble road bike in there at the same time and both in the boot. remove the space saver and you can get both wheels in there. Take the forks out the head tube and it'll go very easily. Like I said I had 2 in at once.

To clarify and so you don't have to read the last epic confusing topic the finalized version is here. -There are 3 wires to splice and 2 wires to cut. It's not the hardest thing to do, but you will need some tools such as a 10mm socket, some glue, pliers etc. I'll be shortly posting a noddy guide soon though. -You still retain control of the mirrors via the switch when the ignition is on (engine running) -As the switch is not made when the car is locked, there is no current drain. - A guide is available here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=46480 , but installation is available if you can make it to Chesterfield. - There are also other various threads about this: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=46826 http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=46121 threefiftyz - Paid lukeaJones - ? JetSet - Paid Spurs Mad Dave - Paid Carltonx - Paid chriswatson99 - Paid Ken - paid - fitted Michael robinson Daryl - Paid Rothers2901 - paid - fitted Flyboy - Paid From A to Zed - Paid Peter10 - Paid Simon+Kat - Paid chrisgunton - Paid *Adam Mull - Paid scubapics - Paid shieldsie - paid slimjim - Paid cesc GruntBoy - Paid jim - Paid hatterjon - Paid penfolduk - Paid geoler Octet - Paid Blacky - Paid M90 OEY - Paid SparksCW Z-Boy - Paid car350z - Paid 350 Russ - Paid jubei - Paid Sparky350z nicon2k djrm - Paid popeacute - Paid D4XNY - Paid Jed - Paid TimFF - Paid Keyser - Paid ChrisS - Paid Z-Boy - Paid Rdsprint - Paid yyiryyib - Paid rancer - Paid

Not sure what chip he's using or why it's mounted in such a poo location. Mines smaller and is hidden away in the door panel. Just so you're not worried about it looking crap! You also have control of the mirrors whilst the ignition is on by the switch as normal.

Got some gen and sent a PM to M13KYF. Apparently he's the man to speak to.

Right, first batch made although I made another one so that's a total of six and they've all been tested and work fine. I've worked out the costings and I forgot to add the VAT to the cost of the components, so with this in mind they are £30 posted to 'normal' places. Little things like the crimp connectors and switches add up to more than you think! I'm going to PM who expressed their interest first, if they're not interested I will move on and so on. To be honest I'll probably do 15 in the next load and just accept my fingers are going to hurt after, so you shouldn't be waiting too long. I can also fit it if you're prepared to come to chesterfield.

No probs. When the first batch are competed (I'm waiting for some wire in the post), I'll start a new thread and drop an installation guide in the guides section. There should be five done by early next week and If they go fast, I'll order some more relays and switches.

I tend to do mostly motorway, but sit at about 65 mph. 20ltr of diesel got me 291 miles before the light come on, which is awesome!

Exact, but the fuse is board mounted, it's a smaller neater package and uses fatter wire (it'll handle 3 amps instead of about 1.8amps)

Just head fooked my self so had to go check. It's set at push to make but isn't pushed when locked. So no amps drawn when parked. If you want the guide, have a look on at the first post. I'm just doing this for people that don't want to build there own / Can't. Bear in mind the maplin parts come to about £26 not including delivery!

Yea, I saw that when I built the first one. It's just a case of swapping the green - yellow wire and the purple - grey wire on the relay and setting the switch to push to break. the micro switch is pushed when the doors locked. this just means it draws amps when you're driving i.e 0.5 amp, who cares! lol

You could leave it unlocked, but soon as its locked they will close. Not too bad if you're close by. Screwed if not! It will draw about 0.5 amp.

Yep, that switch does nothing. Just leave it in the middle and forget about it! Might bash a video up as it's easier to see what happens.

This is the original one I built from this guide £15 posted: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=41330 but soon decided I could do a neater job, and have started work on an improved version which should be ready soon. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=46121&start=0

The mirror switch will do nothing as this unit controls it all. It will open the mirrors when you unlock the doors and close them when you lock it. You can however lock your doors whilst the car is started and the mirrors will stay out.

First batch nearly done, just waiting for some more wire to come in.

106 1.5 TUD 5 engine FTW!

Not much much month as I had an operation early on, just got to get the fuel return then I'm sorted.

I had to remove the LH light washer bottle when I had my Nismo CAI. I just cable tied the hoses back on them selves to stop the leaks for a while and the screen wipers worked just fine. Might help you get it going again if you can't get one soon.

I scraped the leather with the studs on my jeans.... it's now filed off!