GT4 Zed

Put those puppies on a scale mate!! I had looked at them for some time but assumed will be about the same as Rotas so gave up as they are too heavy. I really want Volks CE28N but in budget for now but I would consider the varosten replica if it's not too heavy. Had arch rolled but because then I was running so low the wheels were tucked into the arch he BCR rubbing on very bumpy road. You shouldn't need to roll with the car sitting above 35mm drop and running factory camber max of 2deg at the rear.

Nice whip mate👠and very interesting numbers. Why didn't I think of this👀? I really love the M3 V8 as std and plan to keep it that way but it could use a bit more torque. Hope you kept your zed in the end.

:lol: why did you have to bust their bubble Lexx?

What's the weight of these? I'll recommend 255/35/19 front and 295/30/19 as they are easy sizes to find. No issues with TC as the rolling radios is within 2.5% of OEM. You can also go up to a 275 in front of you want. I've used a 265 in front but will consider a 275 if I had wider wheels. (Only got 19x8.5J in front ). PS: you bumper has been dropped at your mates since last week. I give you feedback via phone or pm later.

Where did you get that impression from SMD👀. You are so far from the truth dude. I'm now at 105k driving it like I stole it everytime and never missed a beat. If it's been off the road it's been for mods unless you count that as repairs

Says who? I'm sure Liam can look after himself and btw this is not a barge like the laaaguar😈. If only you can recall how much fun it is to drive a scalpel precise car you would come back to your senses and sell that boat😎.

Nice choice sarnie👠Where you not tempted by the 997 turbo. These things are going for 30-50k with under 50k miles on 2008-2010 cars🙀

It's a fast road/track spec zed. Only getting a cage and stripping this winter but full race spec suspension and BBK. Its back in NA spec now waiting for a bigger SC capable of over 700whp and a forged engine to go in spring hopefully. It's not comfy but when I get in, it fits like a glove and everything makes sense. I've chucked more money at it than the cost of the the cost of a 2010 M3 but coversely you can sc the M3 and get 550-650bhp but the overall cost will also double. You just have to choose your starting point and go for it.

I've got a late 2008 M3 V8 and I can tell you while it's very accomplished and super refined, it does not have a patch on my full sorted 350z when it had the Vortech SC with almost 450whp. However it's not comparing like for like.

Ya understand what you are saying .... This is mostly from attack stand point I guess? I'm on about ...... Your out for a drive come across a Aston v8/ e90 m3/ r8 v8 ...... Can I give them a run for their money up a dual carriage way ? What sort of performance cars could you liken the 0-100 , speed . Acceleration to? You shouldn't be doing that on the road mate. Take it to a track or santapod.

Very subjective as unless you were in a standardised competition/testing any comparison is useless and the are so many other variables to consider. Eg driver, weight, gearing, type of drive, tyres, road conditions etc Even on track days it tells you nothing. I've spanked a 996 Turbo on bedford or loads of fezzas on the Ring but a 458 italia handed it to me. Simply put any 400-450whp car is fast but to compare you have to consider all the other factors. In my case the biggest benefit was from suspension tuning. The power was a logical step and 450whp quickly became inadequate. There will be always a bigger dog around and though I'm setting up for lots more power, I,m not concerned by meaningless numbers but the challenge to tame the beast. If I were you, in case you want to build an FI zed would be to look at all it entails before and after and also if it's the right start up for your planned or use application. It's not just about numbers.

Guys before we crucify the rozzers lets get verifiable facts. Social media can start riots from nothing ! You would think such a car would have a tracker device. Not fool proof but helps. The number of times they give me alerts when I'm working on the car or on the ferry/train to Europe is very reassuring!

What a smart £&@! response

Good news! I need to clear up my garage and get bumblebee locked up. I've got tracker but don't even want the hassle.

Mate that's not specific at all. The banana arm is a suspension arm. The zed has 3 front suspension arms: - a true wish bone upper control arm (UCA) which pivot with the spindle via a ball joint. - 2 separate lower control arms(LCA): A-The front LCA aka the translink arm because it's a true trailing arm and also carries the front shock. B- The rear LCA aka compresion arm aka banana arm This design was preferred for more road biased ride control as opposed to the double wishbone setup in racecars. Both arms pivot with the chassis inboard and the spindle outboard via bushes and ball joints. The advice from Alex and my addition is to check through all these bushes and ball joints for failure. The banana arm is more comon to fail due multi-axis movement include compression. That bush/arm is poorly design and even Nissan knew this and changed the design in the 370z. However it's not the only one that fails. Rear arms bushes and ball joint(1) are less likely to fail but they do perish/shrink like any rubber bush. You have to investigate throughly with the wheel loaded and unloaded with a pry bar where necessary. Sometimes you are lucky and it's obvious.

How did I miss your return Ian!! Nice you are back in the fold mate and as usual you are mad as a box of frogs! This is going to be awesome and will be following this with interest, Ryan is supposed to be the syvecs God so it's a mystery you didn't get on with the tune. Do your thing bruvðŸ‘👠and let us meer mortal be amazed.

Ah that makes sense. Here with a pic of the inner LCA bush that show failure after prying in horizontally. You will not see this moving up and down through it's natural arc.

Why do you have to wait for my birthday? Xmas is round the corner. Anyway that's my knackered Loakes loafers I use when working on the car you guys are just wrong.

How did you replace the ball joint on the banana arm? Didn't think that was possible. To add to what Alex said I would also take a look at the inner bush of the front LCA (translink arm) as this also fails commonly. You can be lucky to note the arm is not centred which will suggest failure but otherwise use a pry bar and try to get it to move horizontally. It shouldn't.

Nice one Jerrick 👠Yes I would be adding a reinforcement plate on the turret while sound the roll cage sometime this winter or spring. The car is for trackdays and eventually do some invitational races. I wouldn't go past using R compound tyres . What size pistons are you using? Are the dampers an inverted design? How much adjustability will they have? Who makes your springs? I already have an idea of the front and race spring rates I want to run based on my personal trial and error and recently using a race calculators factoring in my corner weights etc. I'll pm you my details so we can take this further via tel/email.

Flex you are mad :lol: the side doesn't matter as the steering angle is the same both sides. The before and after it shows the increase in the angle the wheel is make in relation to the body panel. I will take an overhead shot just for you. @ Steve. The link takes you to TEIN website and should set you back under £200 delivered. Also shop around if you want a bargain. I did not bother with making a guide as fitting tierods is basic stuff and I had a whole suspension bushes and subframe to swap. I got some Pic of what the arms look before and after and will get them onto PB and stick them on.

Someone here was looking to achieve this without spending mega bucks with custom parts. Can't find the thread but got around to fit my Tein inner tie rod and SPL outer tie rod. I donot drift but increase steering angles is also beneficial on a track spec car to get tighter turn in and to help bale out if you have a massive tail out. I used the SPL outers because they are adjustable and I wanted to restore the geometry and be able to dial out bumpsteer as I'm lowered and run larger front with a lot of camber and tie out. Otherwise you just need both Tein inner and outer. TBH you can just get the inner and use the OEM outer as it's the inner that gives you the ability to increase the angle if you install the supplied spacer but the TEIN tie rods are stronger and will be a goiod thing if you drift or track seriously. You can get TEIN here: http://www.tein.co.uk/product/tie_rod_-tie_rod_end.html SPL/ TEIN tie rod ends Before angle After angle What it looks like underneath. (Not pic of my car but same set up minus the knuckle) Knuckle cut in half I also found that despite removing the steering bumpstop knuckle on the compression arm there is no interference from the tyre at full lock either way on both side but I think this is due to my wheel ET. I would advice you check clearance and shave the knuckle off to to the point of maximum lock to avoid interference.

Jerrick I maybe interested to give this a go on my track spec 350z if we can come to some promotional arrangements but I would need the tech specs on this especially the shock dyno. I'm on my 4th set of coilovers now and was going to get a custom set for my needs so my interest. Secondly I would need the rear as a true coilover design. WRT the twin tube vs monotube argument it's not black and white. There are advantages for both and I do agree most race spec dampers are monotubes but to say the KW twin tube is inferior to monotubes is incorrect. They have serious experience and R&D to back it and the twin tube is adequate for their V series coilies and clubsport. A lot of rubbish brands spout the monotube lingo to suggest their damper are up to scratch but these are so poorly designed that it not worth it. Same as a lot of cheapo Re twin tubes. Bottom line it comes down to using quality parts, good valving tech and durability. From what you are saying is meister R has affiliated itself with a suspension guru firm so as to raise the bar and that is good thing.

There we go again. You keep using one known fact to explain your non-fact. There is no point describing how the ETC works in a DBW setup. Of course the ECU is pivotal in controlling this and other vital functions but that's not how the aftermarket throttle controllers work we is what I pointed out to. They just alter the signal between pedal and TB. They donot "overcome the ECU" Off course the ECU will have to adjust fueling to maintain target AFR due to changes increased or decreased air charge due to the TC. But there is not direct relationship between the 2. For example It's like saying fitting a grounding kit or a pop charger "forces" the ECU to make more power. It doesn't. One may enhance spark strength and the other provide may provide more and colder air which in turn the ECU can capitalize make more poke through a selection of strategies. Maybe I'm the one who is picky and should be less pedantic.