GT4 Zed

Surely you can get the OEM size rotors from brembo cross-drilled they look Check out Adam @ Z-1 or opie http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-358-brembo- ... discs.aspx http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=3161 Whowever makes them they are prone to cracking 9 common issue with Porkers) if used aggresively like in track work so sloted or dimpled rotors are preferable

Are they going to make a CF roof or just wrap it

Don't think these are the genuine articles but the prices are very good for the specs! buying fro japan especially from people like Zele is very safe but SVA and all the other shipping malarky is too much of a hassle that its better to use an agent based here in the UK If money was no object and i wanted to get a track only car i would nod at RJN to build a FIA GT spec car with 3.8l dry sump and 450ps weighing 1.1-1.2K kgs max. They a used GT4 spec one for sale at £55K http://www.motorsportads.com/race-cars/ ... 18183.html

well its sad for me haha Man!!! why are you such a drama queen i was really worried something terrible had happened to you or your zed Its official now...........................I christen you: resident drama queen

It is in good condition with some superficial rust as expected. Had only done 30-35K miles when i took it off.the tailpipe and in pristine condition and polished i wanted to sell the whole thing but kept missing out as i did not advertise it enough. Really now, i need to clear out my garage. Should be able to sell the mid pipe and ypipe seperately Fujitsubo makes the zorts for Nissan FYI. I am based in Worcester where arte you

Your car just looks better all the time . The right zorts with a voice, wheels with proper ETs and a splashing of real CF or black plastic in the front grill area. from factory can't be that hard Well done Colin for showing them good taste

Stichy, how can you have the heart to do it This pictures tell a different story just like the last Midlands meets. you love your zed one of the best pics.......very EVOcative

I have got one for sale cheap £50 ono;) pick up only or you pay postage

Spur will come 6th if you don't post pics

This kit was underated in the past but now alot of teams use it in time attack series in the Uk and it is getting always popular in the track the crowd because of the competitive pricing I normally do 4-5 laps stints in the Ring and it does not fade at all also very good from cold on normal road driving and hardly sqeals at all I reckon with the Rays light weight alloy wheels the you should go 8 pot 356mm in front and 6 pot 330mm disk in the rear with performance friction pads or ferodo ds2500 if you are fussy about brake dust!! my wheels are black so it's not a problem The street pads are not good for the track but perfect on fast road driving. The sports pad are very good ( apparently made by ferodo) i used this lasy May in the Ring with no fade but when it gets to hot it imprints on the disks and causes vibrations. you can skim them off but thats an additional cost you don't need Their own race pads are very good but only for track use there is nio bite from cold so you will crash iof you use it for road driving If you are really interested call me i may be able to get discount price for you as i know them quite well now. If i can't then i would put you in touch with CS who is a trader here and has an account with them see pm with my number

No probs John It would be nice if you make it but if not i plan 3-4 trips this year so can always have my company May 28th - 31st , July, September and October dates are TBA.

it was you who made me think of it so you deserve the credit

Jay we were talking about the R35 not the bloody 370 i was beginning to formulate a plan to snag a 30k GTR This is the same car i test drove and been offered a health discount off list price To make it a drivers car and track capable it will cost me another 6k so it was reasonable to just move up to the R35 and the 2 baby seat s are a cobcincing argument with the mrs

I could ask why you know the price of KY I think Stew has just inadvertently come out Nb: Husky never invite me over because i can't be sure of you true intentions after all this. neil: take some painkillers and you should be ok........just dr advice mate

Where? Uk spec

Hope you have very very deep pockets if you want to run an R35. I considered one, but it has to be my daily driver which prices the R35 way out of my league purely for running costs. Oh and it doesnt fit in the garage Lovely car though, Phils was astonishing Seeing what i figure is now by by mid 2011 it will cost sub £40k. Basic running cost are not too far of my zed now and after owning a Cerbera, tuscan s and 550BHP bugeye scooby i should know what to expect The single most important thing has been Nissans change to the DCT warranty issue. It is now covered for reasonable use and the 16k damocles sword is gone. All i need is a watertight comprehensive waranty to cover potential probs and it should be

Rich, these are summed up after extensive research and collating material from several sources and are only a guide performance increase..................disclaimer time a la Rich As i mentioned, i wanted a BBk but was not happy to pay premium prices for nothing but brand name. eg K sports are a copy of AP racing with afew tweeks onn calliper design to avoid TM infringment but the pads. disc are interchangeable even the piston seal. and the samewith pagid an ferodo items You should focus on the step by step upgrade to achieve your suited goal instead

Chris , i know you are waiting for your baby but i thought of you as i was offered a demo ultimate spec 370z in black £5k of list price with 2k miles but 09 plate i test drove it in early feb and told them i may consider buying it if i was offered good money for my GT4 or a good discount when they wanted to sell it off after demo duties. i was disappointed by the car and thought that was the end until i got a missed called from them followed by email. so anyone who is interest should check with Toomey Nissan Basildon Essex for a good bargain. i for one will save into 2011 and get an R35. no more big spending on the zed. SC project canned

Thomas, this is a guide i posted a while ago wrt brakes upgrade: Stage 1: replacement pads and disc(front only or front & rear) +/- steel lines +/- RBF eg DBA 4000 0r 4000xs with Ferodo or PF pads (up to 10-20% improvement over Brembo) Stage 2: 2 peice OEM sized disc/pads replacement (front only)eg DBA 5000 or PF + steel lines + RBF( better pedal feel and resistance to boiling) and up 20-30% improvement over Brembo Stage 3:OEM sized 2 piece disc/pad replacement (front and rear) + RBF + steel lines eg Stoptech aerorotors (up to 40-50% over Brembo but better fade resistance Stage 4 (which is the only real option for serious track work ) a- front BBK only +/_ uprated OEM sized rear discs and uprated pads b- Front and rear BBK, for the perfect match Based on your last response i would say invest on a BBK as it will be cheaper in the long run and as you improve you will go quicker. i found that the big brands cost a lot and went for an unknown brand at the time but i have been nore than very satisfied with the result 1yr on now i went for Ksports big brake kit and they are cheaper now. you can do a stage 4 a only and that will be fine. the best combination is with the performance friction 01 pads. But if you dont want dust then get the ferodo Ds2500 pads. If these are too much for you then just get brembo pads and ferformance friction pads or pagid yellow(ps29 pads) if they make them in OEM size. It will be nice to change your brake fliud to a racing type to resist boiling Good tyres are essential too the gripier the tyre the more the brakes work hence wear Falkens are ok but i would not use them seriously on the Ring. you need MPS 2, pirreli p zero, continental contisport 3 etc or have a set of track tyres on the side eg toto R888 MPS cups, Kumho V700 etc see links for info on my brakes and where to get them. they are half the price i paid : viewtopic.php?f=59&t=25910 http://www.ksport.co.uk/order.asp?id=267&loc=2 http://www.ksport.co.uk/order.asp?id=209&loc=4

read my last reply. Ask yourself what you are going to be doing and how much you want to spend then i can advice on the best routes for you.

i hate you Simon I wish i was there.....................not with you Anyway wher is everybody? where are the chicks i'm not so sure i want to be there afterall

Nice pic bullet What make is the "to match oil filter" you have? endless too In the center is the vents of the rotors(discs) and the blue pads are sitting on both sides. The part through which the pins are going through are the backing plate of the pads and the layer which is touching the rotor surface is the pad material which is what wears down the thinner it is the more wear it has undergone. in worst cases it wears down to the backing plate For full understanding the yellow stuff it the callipers and these house the piston. The pistons leave in the two bulge you see on the side of the callipers. when you press the brakes . The hyraulics press the pistons on the backing plate of the pads which in turn presses the pad material on the rotor causing friction and you to stop you will need to take out the pins first which hold in place the retaining clips then just pull out the pads. that way you can also see the rotors to inspect any wear

If you have brakes with the wear indicator then a screeching sound will alert you. some modern cars even have a sensor which throws up a warning light on the dash But even before any warning you will notice fading, a long pedal and even pulling to one side if the wear is uneven your final check is to confirm visually by comparing the thickness of the pads either by glacing through the wheels or taking the wheel out and then the pads. its easy and you can DIY. there willl be guides posted somewhere here. Start with the front first as these wear twice the rate of the rear and are the usual culprits you should also check the rotors as excessive lipping could mean they are worn and need changing too! Out of interest what miles have you done and brakes and pads do you have? finally this might be the time to upgrade the pads or even discs to something more fitting of your novidem