andlid

they've should have gone 4.2

welmoe to the forum +1 on the front bumper.

some car, some pricetag! like the engine bay, the heat wrap on the exhaust is that really needed so far down? love the wheels, I'd do the mod to the e-brake/hand-brake for sure! ...why pay 250k for it.... not sure .... like the wheels too... what are they?

Not if the image Alex posted up is correct (which it is). Slots should be aiming forwards, yours clearly aren't. Also, I can't even see any slots on your LHS rear, although that might be the camera angle. Yes, and they're things of beauty, and you've precious little hope of getting them for Friday unless you want to pay Adam silly money for next-day FedEx delivery or similar. Why Friday? Can you not put this all off until you've got everything together and can do it properly? put of racing??! guess thats whats on the cards here never!

Check the air mass meter and clean if needed mine was completely BLACK. Does it only happen when it's raining? Mine it didnt happen to during rain. Could be some electric 'misshap' Afraid I cannot help you more there. (maybe take it to another tech?) A/

Or not if you want performance Off the shelf exhausts are often designed and tested with a certain car to give the correct flow etc... no custom exhaust place does / is able to do that. Thats not what my current tuner said, enough flow through the exhaust on mine (dyno proven...so) Of the shelf exhausts are made to make € and sound not just HP... ?

hmmm dont think so to be honest, have had nothing wrong with my abs but I've got that stuff happen to me a couple of times. (2-3) Thought it might have had something to do with the current map I was running/confusing the ecu. What mods are you running? Have you done a clean of the air mass meter? Mine gets a bit dirty from some of the return oil coming back into the intake, could be that cutting of the petrol problem? Tell me some background of the car? A>

where did you get the petrolium >:? Dont worry, reset the ecu and press the TCS button and off you go

the ARC looks like the option to go for, uprated org design. As I said hope to have some info on this (fingers crossed) later on. A.

ah sake... you might just have had brake dust f*cked the seals. Where they cleaned or checked at all before you fitted the rotors/pads? The same thing happened on my rear brakes (on the bike) totally f*ecked. You can recond these though with a new set of seals and some work IF you got money to burn get something else

maybe its an SLD on a uk spec one? Hopefully getting some good news from either of my two sources!

hey, that exact problem has happened to me too! Think it's when I get some dodgy petrol in the tank. Turn it off, leave it for a while and start her up again. Read the error codes following these instructions: http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.p ... opic=38952 Think my rear O2 sensor is funked, luckiley I can turn that jazz of in the ECU I got A.

thought that was only for the JDM version of the Z (mine) Think a reflash with RS tuning would work on uk mod, I'd prefer that option instead of slicing in an SLD Some aftermarket ECU's take care of the speed limiter too. (Haltech are supossed to do all the Z's BAR JDM ) Out ot interest how often would you hit the limiter? A. Well... Not that often, but never say never...

Hold of a while mate, might do some real work on this during the winter months (if the price is right) and I'll publish the findings what intake pipe/filter is the best (really looking forward to the work!) A

does it come with the seats?

you will still have the 155mph one?! .... a c'mon!

just as a note: my Z got tuned yesterday and it was getting enough food (air) through the whole session and thats with a simple drop in filter (aftermarket manifold) SO not sure if any air mods on the early Z bar drop in filter will warrant the spend.

I'd got for a drop in filter... no joke. For sound someone else will probably say JWT.

Greekman, just reading through the 7 pages!! of posts re your brakes. Could it be that the rear calipers are a bit seazed? As in they are always applied to the discs and thus causing it to heat all the time? Don't understand that the rear are more wrecked then the front. And that the discs crack isnt that due to quick cool and heat? If they got over heated (over a long period of time) would they not just warp? I've seen rotors/discs that has holes drilled through them heat up to quickly and get nice cracks from the holes... Maybe ceramic discs is the way to go? I'm looking at a brake upgrade from my std ones (not even brembo's) so will be monitoring this thread closely! What does input gurus think about http://www.stoptech.com products? side note: fluid is VERY important! My fluid on the bike almost started boiling due to pads pressed out due to brake seal started to go on one of the pots. Boiling fluid = expansion = not so very good happy flight in air when front brakes apply without YOU doing it! ...

get a custom system built...

thought that was only for the JDM version of the Z (mine) Think a reflash with RS tuning would work on uk mod, I'd prefer that option instead of slicing in an SLD Some aftermarket ECU's take care of the speed limiter too. (Haltech are supossed to do all the Z's BAR JDM ) Out ot interest how often would you hit the limiter? A.

SUV safety... I'd guess SUV against Z would be same

nah only 17k € I'll see what the accountant comes back with

Maybe but a run without filter would be drawing in warm air from the engine bay??? Unless of course you left the stock air box in with no filter.... stock airbox no filter. (no warm air breathed in)

Internals uprated to 4.2 and then custom turbo build would land @ 10k + 10k I've done ECU (1200) Exhaust and Cats (1000) Plenum (800) so 'only' 7k +10k left Then I better make the car first stop (brakes and tires/wheels) and also some styling options... so lets just say that'll cost around 5k... hmmm