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Did you get this sorted I need one as well

Thanks guys, I'm just about two weeks into ownership now and I'm loving it. It's got a few minor niggles that I'll have to get sorted at some point, I've got it going in to my local garage on Monday to get a full service and good check over then and swap the camshaft sensors for new ones then I'll see about getting it the way I want it to be.

Much easier with the wheel off.

inlet manifold should swap across, sure the Elgrand engine isnt any different around the cylinder hear area. Running Auto gearbox , there is a controller/ecu for the auto box that is in the car loom not the engine loom so will take some time to strip out of the loom , the engine/gearbox ecu need to see wheel speeds , this comes from the ABS on a 350Z via the CANBUS, I can't tell you how a Elgrand sees wheel speed signal thou. NATS is easy just need a Uprev license to turn the NATS off

Hi everyone, Joined tonight, just going to lurk, buy , and slowly strengthen the 350z I got very recently. I'm the 3rd owner of a stock Enthusiast 350z model, seriously low miles for the age of it.Previously ran a Saab ( right into the ground too...) so this wee thing feels like a whippet in comparison... I'm on the East coast so can anyone recommend a good garage to use? Another question I have is: Wheel Arch liners--- can these be fitted without much fuss , without a ramp or jack?I have a delivery soon. About half of mine fell apart and then got crushed underneath on a fast run one night through to Glasgow. Cheers!

I recently fitted Conti sport contact 7s all round on the 370z, I have been blown away with the huge lateral grip, in the dry whatever the speed whatever the corner there is just a mountain of grip. Not really an all weather tyre though. For a year round daily I'd probably look at a Michellin cross climate or a Conti all season.

Hi i have just purchased a 2005 roadster its been well loved by its previous owner but does need new rubber Any thoughts on tyres? Im looking for a good all rounder and as I live in scotland wet weather performance is a must would appreciate any advice cheers

thanks everyone

Hi and welcome along buddy. Lovely looking Z you have there.

The most recent job..investigate and address an issue with hunting at idle after a cold start. Over the last few years, I'd noticed that my Zed would hunt at idle for the first few minutes of a cold start, as per the below video. This would never happen during a warm start, and I had no other issues (no engine light, no loss of performance, etc). I did some research and most of the information I found suggested that I needed to do some data logging/capture via OBD whilst the issue occurred, to try to work out where the issue might be. Luckily, whilst I was looking to determine what metrics I might need include when data logging for a hunting idle, I stumbled across this absolute beauty of a forum thread, with one particular post. UPREV TT HR 350Z Issue | General Tuning Discussion Safe to say, my reaction went a little like this. So, armed with this new information I thought cleaning the throttle body would be a good place to start, given that I had never done this in my ownership. Battery terminals disconnected, airbox out, intake pipework and PCV disconnected, and this is what I was left with. We might be onto something here. So....yeah. It's safe to say that my throttle body definitely needed a good clean as it was definitely sticking. So, I gently cleaned it with some carb cleaner. And after reassembly, clearing the self-learn and performing an idle air relearn via Nissan Datascan, the issue is fully resolved and I now have a solid steady idle after a cold start. The throttle body must have been sticking and unsticking when cold, causing the hunting at idle, but then freeing off enough after a few minutes which allowed a normal idle. What a find and result! 😁

Welcome mate, lovely looking motor. 👍

Next job.. freshen up the steering wheel. I'd noticed that the clearcoat on the steering wheel controls had started to peel off. This year I'd finally had enough, so I decided to try to repair it. This was a bit of a challenge, as I didn't want to go down the route of having them painted or wrapped (which would remove the brushed aluminium finish effect on my steering wheel controls) but I did want to renew the lacquer/clearcoat on them to freshen them up. To achieve this, I started out by wet sanding with 800 grit and then 600 grit to remove the existing clearcoat. The key I found is to progress carefully and take your time. Don't sand too aggressively on these pieces, as you'll end up burning through the anodised coating of the aluminium and you'll end up with a non-uniform finish before you even pick up your can of lacquer (ask me how I know). Anyway, once I'd removed most of the old clearcoat, I used Halfords clear lacquer to apply three coats, then used cutting compound/polish afterwards to remove the orange peel effect in the clearcoat. Before After (one appears brighter than the other, but it's just the lighting 🙄) Quite happy with the result. Onto the next job... 🙂

Thanks both! It's coming along, slowly but surely 👍

Welcome along, lovely Zed! 👍

Hi and welcome 😁

Perth Australia or Perth scotland haha?

to the forum mate from sunny Perth.

Hi guys, technically I think I might have been a member of the forum for like 2 years, but only because I popped on a while back to ask a question about the 370Z. Took me long enough, but happy to say I've finally pulled the trigger on what is essentially my dream motor - a black/red Nismo 370Z! I'm coming from a lightly tuned Peugeot RCZ 200, so as you can imagine this thing is a big step up when it comes to power, drama & handling! Looking forward to becoming a bit more active on the forum now that I actually own a Z! I'm up in Scotland and tbh you don't see too many 370Zs up here full stop, never mind the Nismos. I actually see more 350Zs out and about, which is testament to what a great car they were too!

Happy days

Excellent work bud. Keep it up and keep updating s as you go!

Yep, thankfully No2. Picked up the coil at 0900, was done and washing my hands by 0930.

I don’t have interior pics, unfortunately. It is in Japanese and no way to make it English other than swapping it.

Another long standing Z owner, looks very nice indeed 👌 Very satisfying tackling jobs yourself in keeping these old girls in fine fettle.

Next job...replacing the clockspring (also referred to as a squib/spiral cable) behind the steering wheel. I'd noticed over the last year that my steering wheel controls and cruise control buttons would stop working when the steering wheel was in certain positions, which is usually the first symptom that the spiral cable connections within the clock spring are starting to fail. This will eventually result in an airbag light as the connection to the drivers airbag starts to fail, as well as issues with your horn. I have had this happen once before in 2016 and I posted about it at the time, as I had no end of issues. That said, as I have to revisit this again I thought I'd do a proper write-up this time round with a bit more information, as my previous post is lacking. So, as you may have already guessed I have a 2007 350z rev-up. As it is a GT model (like most are in the UK) all GT models have VDC (stability control) which relies upon (amongst other sensors) a steering angle sensor that physically latches into the rear of the clockspring. This ensures both the clockspring and steering angle sensor rotate together as one assembly when the steering wheel is turned to give the ECU a steering angle value. This is where the cheap non-genuine clocksprings available on Amazon and Ebay cause issues. Although they are temptingly cheap and in plentiful supply, the rear of the clockspring is wider than it should be, resulting in the steering angle sensor not latching into the clockspring. As a result, the ECU does not receive any steering angle value as the steering wheel is rotated as the vehicle travels, but other sensors (such as the yaw and speed sensors) clearly indicate movement. This conflicting information provokes repeat VDC malfunctions, with VDC applying the brakes to individual wheels to try to correct the cars trajectory as it travels, even though everything is fine. So, with the cheap Amazon/Ebay pattern parts out of the question and this in mind you have two options. 1) Find a replacement used part from another 350z of the same year (or as close a year as possible) 2) Obtain the appropriate Nissan part number to get a new replacement part Previously I went for the first option, and bought a used genuine Nissan clockspring from a 2005 (pre-facelift) 350z. Whilst this worked, there is always a risk that the replacement used part isn't much better than what you are replacing. Additionally, I lost the backlit feature of my steering wheel controls. This is because the earlier 350z's did not have backlit steering wheel controls and therefore the clockspring I had purchased only had 7 pins on the front connector and a different pin layout on the second half of the first rear connector. Whereas the correct facelift/rev-up clockspring has 8 pins on the front connector and a different pin layout on the second half of the first rear connector. That said, both clocksprings only have one yellow two pin airbag connector which is correct in my case. Big thanks to @P15UL T for sharing some photos of a clockspring he had previously sold from a rev-up to help me confirm. 2005 350z clockspring 2006/2007 350z rev-up clockspring This time round, I opted to purchase a new replacement part and after contacting a few different Nissan dealers to get pricing and order one, I can confirm that the correct Nissan part number for a replacement clockspring on a Nissan 350z rev-up is B5567-CF42E, which should look like the above photos. I also ordered two new security torx bolts (Nissan part number 878508990A) which hold the drivers airbag in place as these seem to be quite fragile and can break or strip if you are not careful. Once I had replaced the clockspring I ran the steering angle sensor reset procedure using Nissan Datascan on a Windows Laptop and viola, all back to normal. Steering wheel controls working properly again, and my steering wheel control illumination is back...woohoo 😁

Side quest...repairing my 350z Xanavi sat-nav screen. Unfortunately, whilst disassembling the centre console in my Zed to remove my Pioneer headunit the loom/harness for the sat-nav buttons ended up rubbing against my 350z sat-nav screen, putting some fine scratches in the bottom half of the screen. Whilst I know the 350z sat-navs are not particularly held in high regard (and many just remove them) I couldn't live with these scratches as I've opted to keep mine in place. So, after some research it appeared that I had two options. 1) Polish the sat-nav screen to remove the existing anti-glare coating and scratches. Whilst this would probably give a good result, it would take quite a lot of time to achieve 2) Find and purchase a screen protector with an anti-glare coating, and install it over the top of the sat-nav screen In my case, I opted for the second option. For future reference, the height of the 350z Xanavi sat-nav screen is 87mm and the width is 154.8mm (minus the bezels) as it is a 7 inch screen. With these dimensions, I was able to purchase a Brotect matt screen protector with anti-glare from Amazon, which once fitted has completely hidden the scratches on the sat-nav screen. Result!