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Steering starting making a whirring noise at the end of May, noticed the PS reservoir was at minimum so topped it up. That fixed it but it started again yesterday. Looked at the reservoir and can see the pipes just underneath it are damp. Looks like the leak is coming from the flex tube where it connect to the reservoir. Looks pretty simple with the wheel off? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-V-IoQStZhU does this video apply to all Zeds (I'm a DE). I only have the jack that comes with the car though, so might ask my garage to do it when they change the brake discs in October. Are hoses also universal across all zeds?

Small break from working on the car to show that me and my friends installed a lift for the group in one of our garages Took a lot of work and long days and nights but here's the finished results:

The cars been having starting trouble for a while so I ordered an OEM starter from hitachi and fitted it. Luckily due to it being RHD I didn't have to jack up the engine to get around anything and it was able to come straight out. After that I fitted a Z1 Motorsports Undertray - I've used the other aluminium undertrays on the market and I've got to say this one is far better build quality

Time for some maintenance prior to my trip to the Nürburgring, especially since I've owned it for nearly a year now and after a long road trip. First up is cleaning the MAFs and Throttle bodies and doing an idle reset.

Yep had them made to my specifications and even received videos of them being made, they're forged and are surprisingly light considering how massive the rear ones are at 11j

Agree. If youre buying you have no intention of selling. Especially if its a Nismo 👀. Unless someone in South Africa wants it. No release there lol. They may be willing to pay more.

Hi all, So having replaced my stock screen/headunit with a nifty city screen my next change is to rip out all the Bose stuff and replace it with significantly better hardware. I have a Pioneer GM-D8704 driving a pair of Focal ES165KE Elite K2 components for the front but as yet unselected rears, there doesn't seem to be many choices in 3.5" My question is, what have people fitted or any recommendations? Robin

Pretty sure the 350z doesn't have a smart alternator so it should charge continuously, ensure lights etc off and use a multimeter to test for 14v. If its 12v it isn't charging. With lights etc on it should still be circa 13v. If its low it might not be the alternator, you can try a voltage drop test between the alternator and the battery to see if its a wiring fault, corrosion etc.

I think who ever buys that car will loose out big time when they go to sell it

Nice mate Nismo V1 style rims?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187474023298 Hi, She's up for sale. I'm moving and losing my workshop space. There's a huge amount of detail on the listing, there's a bit of build on here and the UK SXOC forum. Yes, it's a huge asking price, but as per the listing, it's the current agreed value, and will include all the spares. Ideally I'd like £20k including everything. Cheers Si

The battery of my 2007 350Z died after 4 years. It was replaced by a similar one of the same brand. I noticed that after the first15minutes of driving the battery indicator turns on and the volt meter needle stops on 12V. After another 3 or 4 minutes it goes off and the volt meter goes on 14 to 15 volts which means that the alternator starts charging the battery again. I am not sure if this problem was already there with the old battery but i noticed it since i changed to a new battery. Can anyone tell me if the problem is with the battery or the alternator or anything else? Thanks a lot Charles

With the correct size grub screw: (Much better)

Seems to have gone well, jwt popcharber and z1 plenum spacer both fitted and good to go. Car feels slightly juddery when pulling of but once driving seems to settle, its not in for a tune with dynatune until next month. Would it benefit for the peddle dance maybe? Other than these mods and the full exhaust anything else recommended before tuning? @ZMANALEX @Keith D

47k if it was a Nismo id consider without hesitation but normal Z that may be an ST trim judging by seats is still 12k above what our friends in Japan are paying. At a time when customs is lower than usual. I reckon the white one sold but you never know.

Following on from the last post I was finally able to dial in my alignment. I've gone for: Front: -3 camber 8 caster 0 toe Rear: -2 camber 0 toe I want to see how the car handles on this set up first before dialling in anymore camber, caster or toe From a quick drive around local country lanes this has really brought the car to life and I wish I did it sooner.

With the Nürburgring trip closing in its time to prepare the car, its already had wheels, tyres and brakes, time for something usually overlooked, camber. I attempted to get an alignment prior to the Poland road trip, but my front upper control arms were seized so couldn't. I've opted to replace them with the Z1 Motorsports race versions. During install I had to loosen the coil over to install them, unfortunately one of the coil over bolts sheered. Luckily, it was an easy fix to get a replacement stud from BC and a couple days later I could fix the issue.

Will double check the small torque wrench, sure thats in nM too. Failing that middlke ground with a inch lb conversion

Aim middle for diddle with any torque range, so 52 inch lbs. Inch lbs is small by the way, my 1/4 drive drive torque wrench is marked in inch lbs.

Best to use an inch-lbs torque wrench. For reference 60 inch lbs = 5ft lbs or 6.7791 nm. However, as Andy has said, the bolts have to be tightened down following a specific sequence. If you require this sequence, then let me know. Here you go.

Hi buddy, I would as you say check online 1st. They are usually torqued down in stages. They should also follow a pattern which should be with the instructions? Sorry I can't be of more help but I am sure someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to advise you better...

Hi all, Finally took the plunge and bought one of these... the instructions say Tighten all bolts to 44-61 inch-lbs. Obvioulsy ill need to look online and convert this to ft-lb or nM as none of my tools are inch pounds. However this is quite big margin, what would be recommended?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/6036756640?iid=255953535295&fitmentTarget=Car+Make%3ANissan|Model%3A370Z hope this helps

Needs more photos of the interior and information. Nice to see one not in white.

Another one http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202508075231517?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android-app