Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 So after fitting my 10j fronts and 12j rears we rolled the arches and cambered them in to get them to fit. Only issue I'm having is the rears have some major toe out issues. So to try and resolve this I bought the DriftWorks toe rods. NADA! So we have reduced the camber for now but is still toeing out slightly to the point that 80mph feels really light. I'm looking at getting the cam bolts but wondered if these would give me the adjustment I need to correct the toe out on the rear. Any advice will be much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 What dampers and springs are you running? Ride height? There's no reason that a simple wheel change will prevent any adjustment to the toe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 I dont understand, how do you know its toeing out? Are you at the limit of adjustment on the toe bolts? As with Ekona, I cant see how a wheel change will affect toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Because of the way it handles and it is visible that it's toeing out. It's not just from a wheel swap. I mentioned we cambered the wheels in to get them inside the arches. Sorry if I didn't give enough information. It's lowered a fair bit on HSD coilovers, drift works camber arms and toe rods. Wondering if the cam bolts will be what I'm missing to get the alignment back (apart from I will be running camber) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brillomaster Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 how does it feel around corners? cost quite frankly toe out at the rear is dangerous for a powerful rwd drive car, when my tracking was out at the rear it felt like a wheel was about to fall of the way it drove round corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 When it was horrendously toeing out under high camber it would snake down the road at 20mph. Now we have reduced the camber till we can get more toe adjustment it feels light steering as if it's going to loose grip at 70-80mph. I'm hoping the cam bolts that go in the rear will be enough adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 You havent put the camber arms on back to front or something have you? My car is lowered on HSD's with massive wheels but Im struggling to see how that can affect toe ......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Not that I know of? Alignment was fine when I had my LMGT4's on. It only seems to kick it out when we apply negative camber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Toe rods? To adjust toe you need the adjustable spring bucket arms or the toe cam bolts as you mentioned, the spc bolts get you to drill out the holes to allow you to increase the toe more than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 I see the boys state side used toe rods on their 350z's to adjust camber back into spec but they are running HUGE camber! Yeah I'm hoping the cam bolts will be enough adjustment so I can run enough camber to get the 12j et0 rear wheels inside the arch. We noticed as we adjusted the camber inwards (negative camber) the toe would go out (toe out). On another side note the driftworks toe rods are squeaky as crrrrrrppp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Camber arm looks like it can only go on one way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 It probably can mate, I was just clutching at straws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 We noticed as we adjusted the camber inwards (negative camber) the toe would go out (toe out). That is normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 We noticed as we adjusted the camber inwards (negative camber) the toe would go out (toe out). That is normal. I thought as much. Would the cam bolts be the answer? Anything else you can suggest? Thanks in advance Zmanalex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 You could try the toe bolts, however I suspect that you may require adjustable toe arms to dial this back to suitable tolerances. Or you could run less negative camber as a trade off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Not what I wanted to hear lol. I will have to give them a go and if they still don't adjust far enough I will have to look into toe arms. I have to run camber to get the wheels in the arches. Being 12j ET0 they poke quite a bit. Do you have any of these items Alex? Thanks again, you've been a godsend since I started playing with the zed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 This is what you will require if you are not true coil over + a pair of swift springs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-mid-links-350z-g35/ I do not sell these parts, but I know a man who does. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Swift Springs need to be custom 2.5" ID Check here or PM me if required: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/94634-torqen-350z-full-spl-range-best-suspension-upgrade-parts Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 I am running true coilovers buddy. Got the HSD mono pros on there. So I wouldn't need this part of I've read this correctly at 7 in the morning lol. Pointing out the parts and a dealer will be great Only so much I can take of the lack of handling lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I am running true coilovers buddy. Got the HSD mono pros on there. So I wouldn't need this part of I've read this correctly at 7 in the morning lol. Pointing out the parts and a dealer will be great Only so much I can take of the lack of handling lol Okay, then all you will require is an adjustable toe arm if running true coil overs. Not expensive and easy to fit. Beware, many traders advertise the front link as a toe arm, traction arm etc. DO NOT USE THIS AS A TOE ARM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Had a look at your image and notice that you have already replaced the "traction arm".. Drawing on past experiences, you will never get your geometry set correctly with this arm. As per my post #20, my advice would be to refit the OEM traction arm and buy a proper lower adjustable toe arm which is compatible with your true coil overs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-toe-links-350z-g35/ And remember the lock out kits. Job Done. Edited July 4, 2015 by ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Sorry, double post. Edited July 4, 2015 by ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Had a look at your image and notice that you have already replaced the "traction arm".. Drawing on past experiences, you will never get your geometry set correctly with this arm. As per my post #20, my advice would be to refit the OEM traction arm and buy a proper lower adjustable toe arm which is compatible with your true coil overs. http://www.splparts.com/spl-titanium-rear-toe-links-350z-g35/ And remember the lock out kits. Job Done. Brilliant, thank you buddy! Are these arms only available from the states or is there a UK dealer? Same with the lock out kit? Looking forward to having some handling again because at the moment it is beyond awful lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Available in the UK. Drop some of the Traders on here a PM. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiftyy Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Thanks again Alex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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