Danohosko Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) Simple question, If i change the final drive on the z (for a shorter ratio), will it require a remap or would it possibly mess with the traction control? If it thinks it's accelerating faster than it should be? Dan Edit: Also does a lightened flywheel require a remap or mess with traction control? Edited February 26, 2015 by Danohosko Quote
StevoD Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 It shouldn't need a remap the final drive may make the tc cut in more on WOT Quote
Pritchard Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Simple question, If i change the final drive on the z (for a shorter ratio), will it require a remap or would it possibly mess with the traction control? If it thinks it's accelerating faster than it should be? Dan Edit: Also does a lightened flywheel require a remap or mess with traction control? no Quote
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Wont change the speed signal, that fed via CANbus from the ABS.VDC etc. Quote
Danohosko Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 Awesome cheers for the swift responses Quote
GT4 Zed Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Simple question, If i change the final drive on the z (for a shorter ratio), will it require a remap or would it possibly mess with the traction control? If it thinks it's accelerating faster than it should be? Dan Edit: Also does a lightened flywheel require a remap or mess with traction control? Just out of interest why do you want to swap for a shorter final drive? Typically in NA tuning you would go for a longer final drive ratio to improve in-gear acceleration. Eg from 3.5 to 3.9. Is this what you mean or really you want to shorten the ratio eg from 3.5 to 3.3? Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Shorter ratio = higher number. Longer ratio = lower number Shorter = lower speed A shorter final drive will make more torque at the rear wheels but lower top speed. 1 Quote
StevoD Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Shorter ratio = higher number. Longer ratio = lower number Shorter = lower speed A shorter final drive will make more torque at the rear wheels but lower top speed. just what i want for drifting Quote
Danohosko Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) I was thinking shortening so going from 3.5 to 3.9 or 4.08. That's shorter right? Not sure how substantial the gains are but seems a popular mod in the US from what I've read. And also the current gear ratio has like 20mph wasted above the limiter so might as well try and claw back some of that and turn it into acceleration not worried too much about fuel economy, i'll buy a smart car when i start to worry about petrol... And i don't fancy stripping out my nice comfy but heavy leather seats to shed wait haha. I reckon it must be cheaper than spending £'s on engine mods to get the same sort of acceleration gains though. (I looked into it a little last year but not much) Edited February 26, 2015 by Danohosko Quote
GT4 Zed Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 I was thinking shortening so going from 3.5 to 3.9 or 4.08. That's shorter right? Not sure how substantial the gains are but seems a popular mod in the US from what I've read. And also the current gear ratio has like 20mph wasted above the limiter so might as well try and claw back some of that and turn it into acceleration not worried too much about fuel economy, i'll buy a smart car when i start to worry about petrol... And i don't fancy stripping out my nice comfy but heavy leather seats to shed wait haha. I reckon it must be cheaper than spending £'s on engine mods to get the same sort of acceleration gains though. (I looked into it a little last year but not much) Nice one mate! I suspected that is what you want to do but there is always that numerical disparity and what affectively happens and this causes confusion. You actually lengthen/increase the ratio with a shorter drive and lowe/shorten the ration with longer drive. If you are going to stay NA and would install an LSD at the same time it's worth it but by itself it's not cost effective. You will be gaining 10-15% more acceleration per gear with the 4.08 but also = poorer economy potentially = reduced rear traction theoretically on launches = useless first gear as you hit redline too soon etc Most of this can be mitigated with good grippy/wider tyres, adding the lsd, launching from 2nd and short shifting. 1 Quote
Danohosko Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Definitely gonna stay NA, i may be lucky enough to have the LSD version, been meaning to ring Nissan and check for a while.. I think it would be a choice between 3.9 and 4.08, i'd rather keep first gear useable if possible! Quote
GT4 Zed Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 3.9 would be perfect. If your car is the UK GT the you have the factory VLSD. It's ok but I bet you given the age/mileage it's not as effective any more. If you I doing the FD then stretch and get an aftermarket LSD like Kaaz, Quaife, cusco, nismo etc. I think Clarkmotorsport did a GB on the kaaz not too long ago. I have an lsd and it's just immense. I didn't change the FD because I was going FI but in retrospect I could have done a 3.7 and be ok for traction. Quote
Adrian@TORQEN Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 3.9 and 4.08 Final drives available at £499 delivered. PM me if you'd like to purchase or discuss options. Adrian 1 Quote
Pritchard Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 3.9 and 4.08 Final drives available at £499 delivered. PM me if you'd like to purchase or discuss options. Adrian its the price to install that worries me I fancied the 3.9 when i looked into it late last yr Quote
Adrian@TORQEN Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 It's not rocket science so it shouldn't cost you that much. http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/301451-4-083-gears-final-drive-installed.html Quote
Bodyboarder81 Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 So what would be best FD for FI zeds? And a price for a quaife diff inc all the bits and bobs to fit...... Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Don't forget your diff cooler if fitting a LSD. Had a track Zed in this week for a service one of the many cars we had through the shop this week. Rear diff temperature over 160 deg C measured on temp tabs. One worn out differential! Quote
StevoD Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Abbey what's the price to supply and fit a cooler Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Email me please. Can do some super deals at the moment. Thanks Quote
Danohosko Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 3.9 would be perfect. If your car is the UK GT the you have the factory VLSD. It's ok but I bet you given the age/mileage it's not as effective any more. If you I doing the FD then stretch and get an aftermarket LSD like Kaaz, Quaife, cusco, nismo etc. I think Clarkmotorsport did a GB on the kaaz not too long ago. I have an lsd and it's just immense. I didn't change the FD because I was going FI but in retrospect I could have done a 3.7 and be ok for traction. Yeah ive got a UK GT so should have the LSD already ten years old and 66k miles now so no idea how good it is now, gonna have to do some more saving up i think! Quote
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