coldel Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 Fitting these as we speak - the original fittings seem to have to be replaced, in that the hose misses out the metal pipe on the back of the caliper and you have to screw it straight flush to the caliper on a banjo bolt. Anyone fitted these little beasties confirm thats how its done, just to be sure! Quote
SteveRS Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 What discs did you go with in the end Col? Quote
coldel Posted January 14, 2012 Author Posted January 14, 2012 Let you know later. If anyone can text Alex and ask him to check PM be much appreciated as the brake lines will not seal against the caliper and are leaking! Quote
TomS Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 Hope you get it all sorted! I'm thinking about installing my HEL ones next weekend before a trackday but I don't want to attempt doing them if it goes tits up as you can't exactly drop it off at a garge for them to finish if you can't stop the car Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 You need to tidy up the face of the threaded connection into the caliper to allow the banjo bolt copper washer to seat correctly, we have fitted load's of these kits and we will tidy up the face of the caliper as our 1st job. Quote
coldel Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Thanks Abbey/Mark/Scott Yeah I ended up doing that, lots of filing back and fiddling under the wheel arches, took about 30 mins per wheel in the end! I can't understand why HKS or HEL didnt just use screw in lines like OEM? (Goodridge seem to have screw in for 350z) I can't understand the thinking really, a screw in line would seal where its meant to seal inside the caliper using the banjo bolts leaves the line open to leaking if the prep of the caliper doesn't seal fully. Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 Yes I agree but that would add cost to the price of the brake line kit. HEL/HKS kit is very cheap but it does take time to fit correctly especially if it is your 1st kit you are fitting. Quote
coldel Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Hmmm yeah I guess. Although wouldnt imagine it would be anything more than £5-£10 which you would recover in labour time if a garage were fitting them Worth noting if people are fitting these, you do need to really prep the caliper as most will have degraded to varying degrees. Also, on the front, you need to use P clips to secure the lines out the way of the tyres. As Abbey said, it is a lot to do if fitting for the first time so make sure to give yourself time and plenty of spare brake fluid Quote
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 it will require a few part but that would add a few quid to the kit and in these days everyone likes a cheap deal. Just bring it to us, no hassle for you no wasted brake fluid and a perfect job. Quote
Daryl Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 I had this very issue when i took my car to a local specialist while i was away with work. He was fitting a few things and doing a service for me. He refused to fit them in the end,as he deemed them unsafe,and a cheap design. I have had them fitted by Horsham Developments,and they have been fine,but understand now why the Goodridge ones are more expensive. Quote
coldel Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Whats annoying is that HKS do screw in ones for other cars Given Goodridge are £200 and HKS something like £70 there is no reason to be using these banjo connections. Quote
spursmaddave Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 Glad you got it sorted Col, I didn't realise it was such a PITA or I wouldn't have recommended them sorry I went to Dixon Motorsports to get mine as they were local and did a good deal on the HKS lines including fitting so I just sat back and played Angry Birds while they sorted them Quote
Mack Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Anyone got some photos of the kit fitted? Im looking to fit mine shortly. Quote
BulletMagnet Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Yeah, as with Dave, I went to Dixon Motorsports to have my HEL lines fitted, didn't look like there was any additional filing to be done, looked like it was a straight fit. Quote
coldel Posted January 19, 2012 Author Posted January 19, 2012 Worth doing the filing anyway, clean up the connection before you screw it down, just to be safe. Sometimes there is corrosion sometimes not. Quote
Mack Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 BulletMagnet: Thanks!, do you have any of the other end? its the first time ive changed brake lines. coldel: Will do , Im planning to give the calipers a good clean up while I have them off the car Quote
BulletMagnet Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 BulletMagnet: Thanks!, do you have any of the other end? its the first time ive changed brake lines. coldel: Will do , Im planning to give the calipers a good clean up while I have them off the car Sorry, I have not, DMS were too quick for me, haha. But yeah, copper washers either side of the banjo bolt and job should be a good'un Quote
Mack Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 BulletMagnet: Will do mate. On a side note im looking to buy some flare nut spanners for this job, Im going to buy a set as im sure ill use them again on something else. Ive found these on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-7-Piec ... 415ca7b91f They are 12 point in stead of hex, will i be taking a risk in rounding off the nuts or am i better off spening more and buying a hex kit? Quote
BulletMagnet Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Personally I'd go for hex, plus I have learnt over the years that when you buy tools, it's worth paying for quality tools. Buy cheap, buy twice (or more) And I doubt that flared spanners are gonna last long when encountering seized nuts & bolts. Quote
Mack Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Personally I'd go for hex, plus I have learnt over the years that when you buy tools, it's worth paying for quality tools.Buy cheap, buy twice (or more) And I doubt that flared spanners are gonna last long when encountering seized nuts & bolts. Thanks, Ive taken your advice and gone for the Hex option. Quote
Mack Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 Just about to start on the swap, Ive read the workshop manual for procedure and it states the battery negative should be disconnected after the fluid has been drained. Is it necessary? Quote
ZMANALEX Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 Just about to start on the swap, Ive read the workshop manual for procedure and it states the battery negative should be disconnected after the fluid has been drained. Is it necessary? No need to disconnect the battery terminal. Best also not to drain the fluid as you may get an air lock which might be difficult to get rid of as a DIY project. Alex. Quote
Mack Posted January 31, 2012 Posted January 31, 2012 Thanks Alex! Im going to change the fluid as well, do I just pump the reservoir untill it almost dry then add the new fluid? Quote
coldel Posted January 31, 2012 Author Posted January 31, 2012 and start on the brakes furthest from the brake fluid tank, apparently, Alex will have the order... Quote
Mack Posted February 1, 2012 Posted February 1, 2012 After much messing around im part way through fitting the kit. Im not sure the best way to route the braided hose to the front brakes. Any pictures of a complete install greatly appreciated! Quote
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