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How To - Adjust Clutch Pedal

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I think you may have overdone it too - I did that at first as you dont realise how much you are adjusting with each turn. It does make your cheeks clench when it sticks and you are in fast traffic having just changed up! May I suggest that you wind it out again until you just touch the sensor and test again. It is trial and error as you have to be comfortable with it. I have gone back to the thud of the return spring but at least I am not chuffing up my clutch or overdrive.

 

Good luck mate............

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I cant for the life of me get my big hands in there or my 6'4 body lol when i do, the nut is in mid turn so havent got enough room to lock on to it?

 

Anyone in north yorkshire able to help for some pennies.

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Just done this. What a difference it makes! I probably have my clutch inline with my brake pedal now. If anyone is struggling to find something to use as a spacer, i cut up an old card (could use old bank card) and stuck it together. Can get the exact size you need then.

Great guide, thanks.

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If anyone is still having trouble with their clutch bite point/feel, you might want to try this.

 

This is a little mod I did on my Skyline 350GT, which is essentially the same as the Z apart from the body, it helped with clutch control and feel immensely, it may help if your mechanically inclined.

 

Disclaimer: if you decide to go ahead with this, ITS AT YOUR OWN RISK! if you don't feel competent then don't bother.

 

I have felt for a long time that my clutch is rather heavy and too quick, as in short engagement window, and lack of feel, which spoils the driving experience, now i have already removed the clutch pedal assist spring, which did nothing but make it even heavier.

So with this in mind i went hunting on the US forums and came across a thread that a guy with some engineering experience came up with an idea of how to combat this, but basically altering the leverage/fulcrum point of the pedal, his opinion was as mine is, that the master/slave cylinder combo was mismatched, and didn't work well.

Anyway his idea was to fabricate a rather over elaborate method of shifting the fulcrum point further up, and so reducing the effort needed along with increasing the engagement window, which make clutch control a lot easier.

Now at first i thought i would be lazy and see if i could order one of his kits, but he only makes them for LHD cars, so i decided to bite the bullet and pull out my entire clutch pedal and see if i could make a much simpler modification and achieve the same result, and the answer was yes i could with nowhere near the effort that he had gone to.

So its just a case of removing the pedal and disassembling, then marking and drilling a hole of the same diameter about 15-20mm higher up from the original clevis pin pivot hole, i actually just used the clevis and held the bottom edge of it flush with the old hole and using the original to make a mark, i then drilled this to the correct dia, so i could refit the plastic/nylon liner back in, thats it for that bit, you could probably put it all back together and live with the slight master cylinder rod misalignment, as it allows for a small amount.

However i decided that i dint want to live with it, and so i just fabricated a small metal plate drilled with two clearance holes to fit the same size as the master cylinder rod, the holes in my case where drilled again at about 15mm centers, so i have enough clearance for the two adjusting nuts, the pics will explain it better,but you get the gist i hope. :)

 

Just to avoid confusion, the lower bolt/nut are where the original master cylinder rod with the two lock nuts would go when its fitted, the bolt was just there to check alignment etc.

 

And the result! well i wouldn't go so far as to say that it halves the pedal effort, but i would say it now requires about 35% less effort to depress the pedal, and the other result is to give a much wider engagement/disengagement window, which results in about 60% more feel, so well worth the trouble IMO.

Obviously you will need a little mechanical know how for this, but its not rocket science, but i guess you will have to make up your own mind as to whether you fell confident enough to tackle this.

 

 

 

 

 

Why not go one higher, maybe fit a longer clevis?

Edited by Juggalo

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Just found this thread from 2011, and was looking to do this adjustment. I’ve run a ‘53 DE for a lot of years and now have a ‘58 HR with just 14,000 miles on it. It’s never had any adjustment work done on the clutch system so gives a good reference for factory set measurements. 

 

I found this Clutch Adjustment Specification guide showing the factory pedal height recommended range (171 -190mm).

 

My pedal top currently measures 171mm (with no mat and pushing carpet flat to floor). 

 

Adjusting the pedal position down would therefore take it below the 171mm range minimum, and the caution note at the top of the guide about clutch slip as fluid heats up concerned me! 

 

This YouTube video was also pretty helpful at demonstrating how pedal travel was affecting slave Cylinder range (on a GT 86, not 350Z). 

 

Has any one got any long-term feedback on running the clutch pedal lower i.e. level with the brake pedal or lower? Any issues of clutch burn out or other problems described in the adjustment specification sheet? 

 

While I’ve never liked the high bite point on the clutch pedal on either of my Z’s, I don’t want to fry a low miles clutch! 

 

Any feedback on long-term running of this adjustment would be appreciated! 

 

Thanks

 

350ZCLUTCHADJUSTSPECSHEET.pdf

 

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