GT4 Zed Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I didn't go down the pathfinder upgrade, not seen enough people using it to be honest. Don't think I'll need it to be honest. Too late now anyway but it helps as stated to even out cooling on the rear part of the block which was blocked off by nissan but present on other VQ35DE setups. Seen a few threads in the states where its been used and no issues. Direct bolt on. I'm getting a custom svirl tank once done. IMHO not required. A big rad, upgrade thermostat, good quality coolant, upgrade hoses, high pressure rad cap and a properly bled coolant system will be more adequate. Any extra small air pockets should leave via the neck of the rad filler into the overflow cam. Thermostat, wouldn't get a mishimoto but possible a nismo. I think a lower openning stat is essential Will see how I get on with the current upgrade. Might even take out the thermostat all together. (need to monitor the temps before I decide) Didn't leave anything out really. Why would you want to take out the stat completely You would need to regulate the temps some how optimally between too hot and too cold and the stat is and easy way of achieveing this with the fans to cut in as is necesary. The project had to stop and if I'd got a bigger rad I'd probably have to redo it myself now anyway (had serious issues with the guy fitting the stuff). Thank goodness it did not lead to any major catastrophy with the PAS you're talking about a diff cooler? Nope power assisted steering Not sure that I'll need it to be honest, been told it might be enough with directing air to it or as you say just get the fin backplate type. I'll pm you some pics of the defi's during the week. This will epic once completed I agree that a diff cooler is an overkill for a road car that does trackday stints. For a full time race car thats a differnt story. If you have the fined diff cover hen you should be fine if not pick one up as the are not very expensive. I know you are aware of all the pits fall when FI 'ed and working methodically to sort them out so i'm just sharing thoughts/opinion from the research i have done so far for my own project. Alarmingly it reveals many a blown FI setup excluding install issues, poor fueling and boost control is almost related to underspecced cooling systems (both oil and coolant systems) which leads to premature failure of the motor or turbo or sc. Heat management is also underlooked when its cheap and easy to manage the source of heat rather than chuck in more costly measure to achieve this. eg wrapping, thermal jackets thermal reflective paints etc. Bottomline is a good cool running motor is more efficient in making power and has better longevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 PAS = Power Assisted Steering no... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 I didn't go down the pathfinder upgrade, not seen enough people using it to be honest. Don't think I'll need it to be honest. Too late now anyway but it helps as stated to even out cooling on the rear part of the block which was blocked off by nissan but present on other VQ35DE setups. Seen a few threads in the states where its been used and no issues. Direct bolt on. Never to late I'm getting a custom svirl tank once done. IMHO not required. A big rad, upgrade thermostat, good quality coolant, upgrade hoses, high pressure rad cap and a properly bled coolant system will be more adequate. Any extra small air pockets should leave via the neck of the rad filler into the overflow cam. Tuner says, Andlid does Thermostat, wouldn't get a mishimoto but possible a nismo. I think a lower openning stat is essential Will monitor and then spend, don't mind spending monies but I rather go the slow route and spend some time looking at graphs Will see how I get on with the current upgrade. Might even take out the thermostat all together. (need to monitor the temps before I decide) Didn't leave anything out really. Why would you want to take out the stat completely You would need to regulate the temps some how optimally between too hot and too cold and the stat is and easy way of achieveing this with the fans to cut in as is necesary. I did say I MIGHT do that, depending on how the new cooler setup works The project had to stop and if I'd got a bigger rad I'd probably have to redo it myself now anyway (had serious issues with the guy fitting the stuff). Thank goodness it did not lead to any major catastrophy Thanks to the guy tuning it... horror stories from that though with the PAS you're talking about a diff cooler? Nope power assisted steering Eh ok. Not sure that I'll need it to be honest, been told it might be enough with directing air to it or as you say just get the fin backplate type. I'll pm you some pics of the defi's during the week. This will epic once completed I agree that a diff cooler is an overkill for a road car that does trackday stints. For a full time race car thats a differnt story. If you have the fined diff cover hen you should be fine if not pick one up as the are not very expensive. I know you are aware of all the pits fall when FI 'ed and working methodically to sort them out so i'm just sharing thoughts/opinion from the research i have done so far for my own project. Alarmingly it reveals many a blown FI setup excluding install issues, poor fueling and boost control is almost related to underspecced cooling systems (both oil and coolant systems) which leads to premature failure of the motor or turbo or sc. Heat management is also underlooked when its cheap and easy to manage the source of heat rather than chuck in more costly measure to achieve this. eg wrapping, thermal jackets thermal reflective paints etc. Bottomline is a good cool running motor is more efficient in making power and has better longevity I wonder if most of the FI setups blow up due to bad tune or the driver pushes the car and setup further then its actually built for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Want this moving the projects area Anders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Want this moving the projects area Anders? work away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 got some goodies today. fat rad! tasty kit tasty computer housing, like the holes in this one for keeping it cool in the rear compartment. (got myself another computer bundle at the same time for my media setup at home... ) hopingthis will fit just waiting for my bits to arrive from the US and plan how to approach this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Nice mate like the actuators Don't worry I ordered something else today (you know what) just to make you jealous Just need to get the torch out and get it all fitted now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 Nice mate like the actuators Don't worry I ordered something else today (you know what) just to make you jealous Just need to get the torch out and get it all fitted now. having my eyes on a 'Z shed' myself, hoping it'll work out, fully kitted and hopefully some likeminded people in there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 [mod edit: Fixed your link so it works. Lexx]finally managed to understand sony vegas sound! So that was the last outing in the Z before 11th of FEB's trackday in Mondello. Think I got some goodies in the post office and UPS's office (one waiting for taxes to be paid... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tprice Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 you and your trackday vids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 you and your trackday vids sorry, need to keep the motivation going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 more goodies! (after paying the vat/customs duty... ) ^ Haltech O2 widebands with controller box to go into the Haltech FRS setup, including ID 1000cc injectors I/O box to hook up my sensors to the halteh and then onto the miniputer Got some discs yesterday, will take some pics now also got my little brembo cutter to get going on the front bumper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 ^ Bumper cutting to come! ^ nice disc... looks a bit bigger then oem, hope I didn't order the wrong one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Quick update, actually went out to sort my radiator install out today! even though it was bucketing down nothing would stop me to see if it actually would fit or not, needed some time to source another radiator if that was the case. So spent a good while getting the old radiator out, managed to brake almost the full fan shrowd, very brittle it seems, no bother since I'm not planning on reusing it. It's very tight there with the APS TT kit and the AC pipes looks like they've been bent away a less positive way for me to easy fit the new radiator and fans got the old shrowd radiator out after some muscle effort, not much to save so installed my very thin two fans onto the new radiator and started to try and fit it... no chance took some brackets off and cable tied most things that I could move out of the way. Still to tight, the lower brackets (guessing for the AC) was catching the AC condenser fins. Almost gave up when I decided to bend the lower brackets inwards/backwards. Then setup slotted nicely in after that, made sure the pegs went into the holes and locked the radiator into place at the top, screwed the ac condenser into the new rad. Tried to move the radiator (rock solid) (result) stuck all the screws and bits back together (had to cut the upper rad hose since the new width made it far to long). At the last screw to put back it snapped on me half in half out. It's a screw holding the intake pipe (APS) going into one of the front cam covers? (so need to figure out if I need to address this urgently or if I can get an expert to sort it out for me). No photos since it was a daily shower out there all day today. Hoping this rad isn't leaking since I never did a leak test of it before fitting. 7l gone in now, will be getting some more concentrate tomorrow. hope this new radiator (50mm) will help my cooling problems. In summary: A 50mm rad with 2x10mm thin fans fits in the engine bay with APS TT kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well I'm impressed mate 50mm was always going to be tight with your setup - you know I didn't go that big. Snapped bolts are a speciality of mine shame I'm too far away. Get some pics up when the weather improves - always OK in the ZedShed Hope its sorted your heat issues. Edit: Nice to have you back and Congrats mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well I'm impressed mate 50mm was always going to be tight with your setup - you know I didn't go that big. Snapped bolts are a speciality of mine shame I'm too far away. Get some pics up when the weather improves - always OK in the ZedShed Hope its sorted your heat issues. Edit: Nice to have you back and Congrats mate cheers dude, hoping the extra 14mm will make all the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfman Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Looking forward to seeing pictures of this rad fitted, it'll be pretty impressive! Good work mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 I'll take a photo later on today, need to go out and get the fans wired up. That'll be fun again it's flipping raining outside... I'm going to try the below to get the oem harness working with these aftermarket ones, fingers crossed he didn't have his wires crossed when he did his On aftermarket fan 1, the power wire should be connected to the blue wire on connector 1 and the red/white wire on connector 2. The ground wire from this fan should be connected to the black wire and the yellow/red wire on connector 2. On aftermarket fan 2, the power wire should be connected to the black/yellow wire on connector 1 and the white wire on connector 2. The ground wire from this fan should be connected to the black wire and the yellow wire on connector 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Right so got 30min available to do the fans today, no photos since I hardly had time to slice the cables properly Any long story short, the guide above was no good once I confirmed my oem cables didn't have the same colour codes. HOWEVER Keyser had provided me with another way of doing this and those colours matched so I went with that, see below: 1. Cut the ends of both wire leads long and short that connect directly to the stock fans. 2. Strip off the black heat jacket. 3. Take Blue wires from each harness and solder them to the Blue wire on fan 2. 4. Take Yellow wires from each harness and solder them to the Black wire on fan 2. 5. Take Green wires from each harness and solder them to the Blue wire on fan 1. 6. Take Black wires from each harness and solder them to the Black wire on fan 1. 7. Heat shrink all connections and then slide some sort of loom over them for protection. 8. Connect everything up and that should be that? Since I was short on time and just wanted to see if I need to order some more bits I decided to use crocodile connectors (hate them...). Once all done I heated up the engine to temp... at 84c (probably before but didn't check) one of the fans where pulling (not pushing...) air through the rad the other one did not, guessing one connection faulty (crocodile tut tut). Didn't have time to troubleshoot. Will be back at it hopefully tomorrow if I get some spare time! (need to be sorted before the 11th trackday either way!). Don't think I'll have time to do my brake duct install though. (might get time to do some minor cutting at the front though ) later A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Well its a start mate I think they should be on together like that. I think if you have one fan on and the aircon is on it should kick the second one in - or you have a bad connection? Let me know - If that wiring is right Ill do it on mine as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Well its a start mate I think they should be on together like that. I think if you have one fan on and the aircon is on it should kick the second one in - or you have a bad connection? Let me know - If that wiring is right Ill do it on mine as well will do, hoping I can wing some time to do this tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 To cold to solder! Managed to prepare the fan side since the copper was finer... No hope on the oem stuff, tool the plugs out and will try again later indoors! I plugged the fan straight to the battery so at least I know its working powerful to! Later A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Right, took the oem plugs and cables out and sat at the table and finally managed to get some heat through those crappy copper wires. Anyway (managed a photo or too two!) I started the engine let it get warm and had a look under the hood, looks like the way I've plugged them in retains factory fan operation... not sure that's a great thing. The passenger fan goes on when AC is turned on and the other one supposedly comes on when the engine gets 'hot', not sure at what temp but with my new rad it never hit that temperature Not sure I'll use the oem setup or just hook it up to the haltech and control it a bit better. photos to be posted later on. bring on trackday! (after I get a jubilee clip for the tb... noticed it had snapped! Made in germany tut tut, made in UK to be bought tomorrow) later, a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Did you use the wiring diagram as above??/ Makes a change NOT getting hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 crappy photo but you can see the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.