lrh Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 A stereo cable with a headphone jack at one end will contain at least 3 wires (L, R, GND) all of which must be connected. If your cable has 2 RCA connectors at one end it'll have 4 wires (L, R, 2xGND). In this case you need to connect both grounds to the single GND on the tape unit (easiest to wind them together). Be careful stripping the wires as you don't want to damage the inner shielding around the L/R wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder123 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Huh? What are you guys talking about! Any stereo cable with a headphone jack at one end will contain 3 wires (L, R, GND) all of which must be connected. Correct, otherwise you will be relying on the chassis, plus supply wiring to carry millivolt audio signals.YUK ! I did not do the spring mod, but use an old cassette with the tape removed. This sits permanently in the Bose. S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Huh? What are you guys talking about! Any stereo cable with a headphone jack at one end will contain 3 wires (L, R, GND) all of which must be connected. Correct, otherwise you will be relying on the chassis, plus supply wiring to carry millivolt audio signals.YUK ! I did not do the spring mod, but use an old cassette with the tape removed. This sits permanently in the Bose. S. Hi mate, did you remove the bobbins where the cassette heads fit and turn....? I would have thought with the bobbins still in you would hear the casette player turning all the time? I guess with the bobbins removed from the casette itself the tape may rattle worse lol.. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrh Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Hi mate, did you remove the bobbins where the cassette heads fit and turn....? I would have thought with the bobbins still in you would hear the casette player turning all the time? I used a casette adaptor because I wasn't sure if the reels were driven or not. It was noisy with all the gears turning inside but I opened it up and greased everything, now you can barely hear it. But now that people mention it, stripping everything out of an old cassette is a better option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 i have just done this mod and it was fairly easy!!! and works a treat! solder point were easy to find as well. Spot on i have taken pics and will provide a guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 if you feel scared to work on your own unit i believe R35LEE is offering this service quite cheap as well as bose repair services if you PM him, just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 ok, this is how i did it! it is not for the faint hearted, but it looks alot more complicated than it actually is. 1st- remove the HU using the method in the first post 2nd- take the complete unit indoors and remove the trim panel from the radio cage (housing). 2 black screws. now you should have the HU on its own and ready to be taken apart. 3rd- remove the left and right mounting bracket, taking the 4 gold screws out and then the final black one (same for the opposite side) 4th remove the front fascia from the rear of the unit, work from one side and release the clips gently using a flat blade screwdriver 5th once the front fascia has been removed you will need to take off the bottom panel to expose all of the boards and contacts there are about 8 screws and some are mounted on the front and back of the unit. once these screws are removed the lid should come off with a bit of prising from a flat blade screwdriver 6th now you have access to the terminals and boards the rest is easy!! all i did was use the cable from my tape adapter and solder that onto the terminals. i used a continuity meter to test which ones were the left and right sides of the 3.5mm jack and to make sure there were no breaks. once in, i tested end to end (from the soldered joint to the corresponding jack input.) i then used the little notch to the right of the terminals to thread the cable through reassemble the opposite way, i "pinched" the new cable via a between the lid and the main unit so that it would not go anywhere if pulled a bit. i would advise that before you put all the trim back together and reassemble the car, you plug in all of the relevant plugs and test the newly installed cable with your MP3 player. i have thread the cable all the way back into the armrest cubby but it was VERY tight on the cable length. it does seem to be an easier method to soldering and cutting tracks on the PCB. well worth a go IMO!! good luck hope this helps! Sparky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfman Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Brilliant write up! looks simple enough tbh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1xtyn1n3 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 yup! looks pretty much spot on now i just need to figure out what the hell is going on with my phone so i can use the headphone socket at the same time as bluetooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Just done mine, it's the easiest thing ever, but watch out for the tracks lifting on the PCB. A blob of araldite on top should keep it sweet. Also burnt my finger and it smelt of ribs! Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Just done mine, it's the easiest thing ever, but watch out for the tracks lifting on the PCB. A blob of araldite on top should keep it sweet. Also burnt my finger and it smelt of ribs! Nice. i stabbed my high temp soldering iron in my hand, you can never figure out how deep it is as it doesnt bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Brilliant write up! looks simple enough tbh! thanks, thought i would do something productive with my day off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder123 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Huh? What are you guys talking about! Any stereo cable with a headphone jack at one end will contain 3 wires (L, R, GND) all of which must be connected. Correct, otherwise you will be relying on the chassis, plus supply wiring to carry millivolt audio signals.YUK ! I did not do the spring mod, but use an old cassette with the tape removed. This sits permanently in the Bose. S. Hi mate, did you remove the bobbins where the cassette heads fit and turn....? I would have thought with the bobbins still in you would hear the casette player turning all the time? I guess with the bobbins removed from the casette itself the tape may rattle worse lol.. Alex I just removed all the tape from the bobbins. Not a rattle from them. It may vary cassette to cassette. Used the only one I had left, the others having either gone in boot sales or charity shops. S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Good guide mate, I'll sort mine tomorrow...I'm going to buy the cable from my local electrical store... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1xtyn1n3 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I've got my phone working now so weather permitting I'll be yanking mine out tomorrow as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrh Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Good stuff, glad to see other people benefiting from ghetto "iPod integration" No more CD skipping or left speaker cut-out! I'm going to buy the cable from my local electrical store... Your local pound shop will likely have a suitable cable... 1.5-2m long should be perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choptop Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Nissan do an MP3 adapter for the 350z according to my supplying Nissan Dealer. Part Number: KE28699900 . Cost as of last summer £60.49 + VAT. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gball1973 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Or for those not confident with a soldering iron.... http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=33010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 If anyone wants a hand and lives near Chesterfield, I'd be happy to help if you don't like the idea of soldering stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1xtyn1n3 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Well, i did mine today but i think i've shorted something as soon as i connect the jack to my phone, my phone switches off! Everything car-wise still works, but the weather was too crappy to really have another attempt today. Will try again next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Done mine this morning. Works a treat, just remember to push the cassette deck into a playing position with a pen. Thanks for the post well worth doing and saved some serious pennies on a new head unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Well, i did mine today but i think i've shorted something as soon as i connect the jack to my phone, my phone switches off! Everything car-wise still works, but the weather was too crappy to really have another attempt today. Will try again next week Now then mate, the only part you can get wrong is soldering the earth to a audio tab lol...Just check you have them all right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1xtyn1n3 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Well, i did mine today but i think i've shorted something as soon as i connect the jack to my phone, my phone switches off! Everything car-wise still works, but the weather was too crappy to really have another attempt today. Will try again next week Now then mate, the only part you can get wrong is soldering the earth to a audio tab lol...Just check you have them all right yeah, i think the positioning is ok, but i think one or more cores from the shielding cable might be touching an audio lead. its going to have to wait as i've got to dismantle the drivers door first to fix an issue with my window getting scratched to pieces. on top of that, i've got a digital camera in 10 pieces on my desk that really needs sorting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom S Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Just done this mod on mine and it worked a treat, thanks for the guide!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetstan Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Mine has been done thanks to Cookie who did a splendid job of the soldering. Anyone else get massive interference/buzzing when playing the MP3 via this method? The sound is perfect through a seperate IPOD so I know its nothing to do with the connection on the tape deck. Also, is it possible to use a wire connector block instead of wrapping the wires around the power cable to the stereo to provide the power to the sat nav? Will this cause a prob? Ta Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.