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Koukicuda S14A, 350z handmedowns.

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Going to drop the 350z diff at some point and check measurements to see if the angles/sizes are correct.

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So this 41761501_10160916556390441_2705860388964

is going in this

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Well the important bits are.

Diff,driveshafts,wheel bearings and maybe the handbrake setup as the 200sx uses a cable on caliper design. (no internal drums)

 

Fortunately the 350z subframe looks like its from a newer car or hasn't seen much salt as all the bolts are good and should save me a bit of cash if I can use them on the 200sx subframe.

The shocks look in half decent nick if anyone wants them? (one is minus the welded nut, but you can just fit a nut to the normal bolt anyway like most aftermarket shocks.)

I may keep some of the arms as spares but if anyone needs them let me know.

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So 350z wheel bearing bolts are 5mm wider spaced apart that s14 items so they won't be getting used =( guess they are now spare for the Z. But new s14 items aren't expensive so I will just have to order some and push out the 5 lug wheel axle from the old ones. 

This makes the 350z rear handbrake conversion more difficult as the plate holes wont line up..... Think I will leave this for a very distant future project and stick the old system back on for now.

Now that Ive finished messing about with dismantling things I don't need I will hopefully drop the fuel tank tomorrow when I get up and set about ordering new braided fuel lines.

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Only just caught up with this - good work mate, it's coming along :thumbs:

 

Do keep us updated.

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Kinda became sidetracked today as I was fed up struggling to find the correct heater controls in the chrysler 300c daily so ended up soldering in some new LED's and ate up most of my morning and I have work this afternoon =(

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So back to the koukicuda,

Took the heat shield off the tank. . . . ok the first clip disintegrated and I ended up just pulling the rest off violently.

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The plastic fuel filler neck guard didn't help the corrosion resistance much.

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The moment I touched it the thing started to fall apart and would have been leaking fuel soon I imagine.

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Also found more rust so poked a hole.

New filler neck needed as the bracket on the chassis is dead and so is the metal neck, the plastic part looks ok but these tanks are known to leak so I may have to coat it in something (some people use truck bed liner?)

 

These fuel lines have been disconnected but I reconnected them as there is still a bit of fuel in the tank and I don't want to leave the garage with an open source of fuel, hopefully tomorrow for dropping..... removing the old tank.

42461361_10160957165625441_3771006127978

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So the fuel tank in these is kinda big, just a couple more things to check then the engine and trans is coming out.42683081_10160964141640441_8257515977399
Straps are dead.
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Need to wire wheel this all to see if its going to need patches welded here also.
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old brake and fuel lines are going to be replaced with braided and -6AN hose.
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Hopefully I can weld a new bracket to this filler neck.
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last time anything auto will be near the car.
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42591569_10160964140530441_7055502537037

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Two 14mm nuts are all that seem to hold the engine to the mounts so they are off, now I just need to find a good place to bolt my engine leveler... nothing on the front looks good, only stuff on the side :thumbdown:

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Still need to undo the gearbox mount but waiting until I know where to lift from/ slings arrive.

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Engine out.

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Ended up using a mix of sling and chains on bolts.

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Plan to tidy this up and remove some unused pipes and weld some holes shut in the firewall.

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So my first mistake of quite an easy job (surprisingly) was not to undo the bottom two gearbox bolts.

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Back up again and jack under the box as doing this myself was a bit scary as this sh#' is heavy.

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Then I realized its not like roadkill american V8's the dam torque converter still has lots of oil in it and is bolted to the flywheel, which need to be accessed through an inspection hatch on the bottom of the block (hopefully).

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Getting the box off took a lot of wriggling. But now I can swap to the Apex exhaust 3" elbow easier and a few other bits and bobs (remove AC pump,)

Glad I have the hoist as it was a pain to drain the fuel tank but used a sling to tilt it and drain from the filler pipe. (nearly empty so the fuel pump will be swapped soon.)

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Always fun pulling engines out on your own, as you say HEAVY :)

 

Good thing about the 350 you don't have to lift it as high just take the front off.

Keep up the good work mate :thumbs:

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Turbo shaft has 1-2mm of play so should be fine for a few more miles,

 44171303_10161042481680441_2891156496568

Oil return line will need changed, if I cant clean the pipe up it will be swapped for some braided hose.

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Sadly the original exhaust stud is too long to fit the 3" apex turbo elbow so it will need shortened and then the elbow might need some bashing or grinding to fit the 350z gearbox, since its a lot larger. 

 

Removed the last few items from the wheel wells before the cutting and welding work begins.

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To remove the steering and front subframe I think I just have to undo a clamp beside the red paint pen mark (not sure), then four big bolts under the subframe. Then I should be able to remove the lot for a clean and new steering rack bushes and maybe some offset spacers and other bits =)

44342353_10161042481590441_8981987891202

 

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steering rack and subframe removed along with some radiator brackets and other stuff.

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main  chassis rails are in good condition on the inside, not so good on the outside, have yet to look underneath =/ 

Cleaned them up and some of the suspension turrets then coated with zinc primer to stop them rusting while I cut out the death and weld in fresh metal. 

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Quite boring but these pictures help understand where stuff goes so bare with me.

 

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