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LRF4N

First detail with my new DA

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Got myself a DAS6 and finally got round to detailing the family car 

 

Had planned this for around 3 years and with it going up for sale thought I better pull my finger out :lol:

 

Also got a clay cloth a few months back, first time for that too. Definitely speeds the process up but not as good with stubborn spots as a clay bar

 

Washed and clayed, machined with megs ultimate compound, waxed with DJ purple haze, and a quick detailer for a more glossy look

 

 

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Some before/after pics

 

Driver side of bonnet and headlight clayed, and passenger side done

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Bootlid before, rear wing after. Shows the colour change 

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The difference a DA makes is night and day - dont care what some of these products that are hand worked in claim, a DA takes it to a wholly different level nice work.

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Rear wing before, rear door after, then after with both and replacing the scratch with a puma logo 

 

 

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49 minutes ago, coldel said:

The difference a DA makes is night and day - dont care what some of these products that are hand worked in claim, a DA takes it to a wholly different level nice work.

Definitely 

 

Until now I had only used products by hand and although they do make a big difference they just give more of a clean from what I know. You can't really see the swirls in these pics but there is a huge improvement 

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Yes if you hold a torch to the paintwork you can see the swirl change - loads of cars cleaned by hand can look great in photos but you need that swirl check to see the real impact - and DAs mean even an idiot like me can have a fair crack at it.

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Great results. It takes guts using something like UC to soft Japanese paint though. Did you get a paint depth reading done prior to using it? Always best to be safe than sorry. I've had my DAS6 for almost 9 years & it's still going strong. I tried a DAS6 Pro & sound it moved & vibrated too much for my liking, but on hard German paint the extra grunt helped. Have been looking at clay cloths myself but I prefer the hands on old way of doing it using Bilt Hamber clay & water as lube:teeth:.

 

I did a black Jag XF last year that belongs to my sisters fella. It was always intended to be done withing the day, so not 100% perfect. Have a look at the end results here: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/jagxf/

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Cragus on here recommended the UC. He used it a few times on his ebisu black zed so I thought it was pretty safe for Lexus paint. Turned out fine in the end lol

 

Also I hear about other polishes like auto glym SRP being a waste of time

 

What polishes would you recommend for getting the job done and not risking any damage?

 

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SRP isn't a polish. It's got the word Polish in the name, but it's not a polish. It's a glaze. And a rubbish one at that. :lol:

 

Personal preference on soft paint is Scholl S20 Black & S30+(or S40) two stage combo for any proper correction, and Menz 2500 (PO203 in old terms) and 3000 (PO85RD in old terms) is my back up option.

That said, if the Megs stuff works for you then stick with what you know.

 

There's always an inherent risk with any cutting compound, it's just the finer the compound, the lighter the cut of the pad and the slower the machine is working at, the longer it'll take to do that damage (and get that correction for that matter...). It's more about using the product that you've got correctly for the job than using that one correct product.

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Thanks for that 

 

The main reason I avoided buying a DA for so long was knowing what polish and pad combination to use as a lot of the write ups I have read use 2 sometimes 3 pad/polish combinations. I've always wanted a simple but effective detailing regime 

 

Also I've read several times that you can't cause any damage with a DA but according to that last paragraph you can

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You can cause damage with a DA but you'd need to be very heavy handed with it - the advantage of a DA over a rotary is that it disperses the heat build up better which makes it a lot more forgiving to use, but at the end of the day you're using a cutting compound to wear away the surface of the paint so there's always potential to get it wrong. Realistically though, you'd need to have bad paint or be a proper mong to actually achieve striking through with a DA.

 

You can actually cause a surprising amount of damage with a just sponge if you're hamfisted enough.

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Lol fair enough 

 

The way I see it if your wash technique is good you don't need to machine often so I don't plan on using mine regularly 

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I machine once a year max. Bathe+ and Victoria Concours keep it shiny in between. I used Menzerna polishes which seemed pretty good.

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Yea I've seen you do yours quite frequently, you're a braver man than me. I was thinking every 2-3 years with hand detailing in between

 

I'll definitely be trying the bathe+ when my current shampoo finishes you've mentioned it a few times 

Edited by LRF4N

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Only do the bits that need it and go easy on it.

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When the bonnet got smashed by those plonkers working on next doors roof, took it to TGM for respray and they commented that I had so much paint on the car it must add a fair bit of extra weight! :lol: Can only assume whoever resprayed it prior to owning it myself went to town!

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Similarly I aim to only polish once a year at most, if it needs it. There's plenty of great glazes out there these days that you really don't need to do it more than that. Even if you do have the world's softest paint on your car. :lol:

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Great results LRF4N :)

 

When my z was black I found it impossible to clean without adding little faint scratches and swirls was crazy. I use to do citrus APC through the Lance then power washed off,snow foam wash off,two bucket method with lamb's wool mits and the most suds ever then even let it dry without using a towel and the swirls still came up so gutted after it was corrected. Now I made a promise not to get a black car ever again due to how hard it is to keep looking good. I'm guessing black z must have the thinnest paint in the world haha

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I know what you mean. I got a brand new car for the first time and was even more anal than usual but still managed to get light scratches. I'm almost patting the paint with a lambswool mitt and they still appear 

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My black Zed was horrendous for it - Wasso spent 7 hours on mine then a few weeks later and any tiny minor abrasion showed up like a christmas tree! Black looks fantastic when polished, but it only lasts a few days!

 

PS, suds do not mean anything in terms of car cleaning, I use Bathe+ which is by far the best shampoo I have ever used and it is pretty much sudless. 

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I hose my mitt down before reapplying shampoo as it's more effective than shaking it in a bucket of water

 

Then when I wash I try not no let the same bit of the mitt contact more than once. I even rotate it as I move to avoid dragging dirt across the paint

 

I don't know what else to try to avoid them lol

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Buy ten mitts and switch to the next one each time you use one on one panel?! :lol:

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