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Starter motor help please guys


Rob350

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Hi guys I'm sure your all sick of the sight of my name on here now with the constant long worded questions lol but I really do appreciate everyones advice and input, with that said, here's another one for you.....

 

I came out to start the car this morning, put key in, turned ignition on and the fuel pump didn't prime, the voltmetre didn't move and only half the dashlights lit up.

I hooked up some jump leads to my car off my dad's mond, the pump primed, voltmetre went up, all lights working..... turned the key and it only cranked over once then stopped. So I took the key out and tried again same thing, the starter just turned once and then nothing...

 

My starter motor has gone right????

Is it difficult to get at to swap over???

And could traders pm me a price for a good used one please.

 

Read on at risk of boredom....

 

When I 1st tried starting the car today and nothing happend I tested the battery with a voltmetre before I put jump leads to it, it was 8.7 v, this has gone from fully charged Thursday 5pm to 8.7 v today at 2 pm (so about 45 hours)

This is a Bosch s4 battery that was tested around a month ago (I removed the battery and trickle charged till full then left in garage for 5 days and tested with voltmetre everyday and it never dropped abit)

 

The battery is dead right??? Not holding charge

 

Whats the chances my battery and starter have both popped their clogs at exactly the same time?? :wacko:

 

Cheers guys :thumbs:

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I'd go down the battery route first. If you fit a new battery and it doesn't solve it, as long as its resell-able you can get your money back. If your battery has high internal resistance it wont hold charge. Can be caused by a voltage spike from alternator or jump starting etc. Normally if its starter motor that has seized it just clicks and wont even try to turn.

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Well after attempting to jump start and it not working I pulled the jump leads off pulled the keys out and put the voltmetre on again and it was 12.5, i held the voltmetre on the terminals for 30 secs and it was slowly dropping about 0.1 every 3 seconds, 2 mins later it was 11.4, so was loosing charge very fast

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You could also have an electrical drain on your battery that is sapping power during the cars down time.

 

Iv had a drain on the battery from my CD player for the last 2months, (I actually went out today to remove my CD player and try to solve the problem then this happend lol) but with the drain my car would still start within 48 hours, after 48 hours it would be around 11.5 v and need jumping, but like I said within 45 hours its dropped to 8.7 v so has got extreamly worse,

 

The CD player is out now so I'm going to replace the battery, try starting it, and make sure the drain has stopped, if still not starting I'm going to replace the motor.

 

Could it possibly be anything to with the imobiliser system... letting it turn once then immobiliser kicking in ???

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A battery that has gone down to 8 volts is unlikely to recover so you should probably replace it anyhow , and then start your testing again

 

A healthy car battery should read 12.6 volts or above when charged

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Id go off the beaten path here and suggest you have an earthing Issue as well. What makes me suggest this is the symptoms you're having are identical to my Honda. Everything from half lights to one crank starting. Whats happening is that the voltage on starting is causing it to ark out, essentially breaking the circuit. My issue got so bad that I actually ended up locked inside the car outside my tescos one night and had to wait for someone who had parked near so I could get them to wiggle wires!

 

Id recommend identifying the earthing points and buying new straps, they're not expensive or difficult to do and cleaning up contact areas for a good connection. This cured my issue and also helped with diming lights under load :)

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