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Hey all ^_^

 

I'm currently in the market for a 350Z HR, and have spotted one for a competitive price, but I wonder whether I should be put off by a mileage of 110k on a 2007 model? I know the engines are generally meant to be bomb proof, I just wondered about others opinions.

 

Thanks in advance! =D

 

Luke

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General consensus seems to be that mileage isn't particularly important. What matters is the condition.

 

Best thing to do is go have a look at it and find out how well it was looked after.

 

Worth checking if the plugs have been changed recently too, might give you some leverage.

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Hey all ^_^

 

I'm currently in the market for a 350Z HR, and have spotted one for a competitive price, but I wonder whether I should be put off by a mileage of 110k on a 2007 model? I know the engines are generally meant to be bomb proof, I just wondered about others opinions.

 

Thanks in advance! =D

 

Luke

 

Post a link so we can have a look at the ad.

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I bought mine 4month ago or so which is an 08 but had 98k, which didn't bother me as its in very good conation with all the receipts for previous work and services, only thing I still want to do is the oil galley gaskets and change the cd player as it's buggerd :/ apart from that you certainly wouldn't guess it's milage :)

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I bought my second Z 2007 HR 11 months ago with 96k on the clock, lovely car bullet proof engine totally love it - so as the general consensus indicates buy on condition and maintenance history rather than mileage ie a high mile well loved Z is better than a low mileage abused Z :teeth:

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Gallery gaskets - £800

Clutch, flywheel, slave - £1128 + labour

 

If both of the above have not been done I would put money to one side just incase, mine had 54k with a full history and had to get both of the above done, luckily on warranty as I purchased from a dealer. Must be the two most common faults on the HR.

 

Look at oil pressure when the car is fully upto temperature, it should be 28-30psi on hot idle.

 

Clutch is a gamble, mine felt like there was no consistent biting point before the slave blew and contaminated the clutch friction plate only a few months after purchase.

 

Car you're looking at seems to be very, very cheap for an HR, even with that kind of mileage.

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That's why I'm second guessing myself. I've made some enquiries and have asked certain things. I'll find out about the clutch. The guy should be coming back to me tomorrow I think.

Excited to get a Z but don't want to get my hopes up.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Or check out the free "Vehicle Smart" app gives you all dates of previous MOT's, whether a straight pass or advisories and what these advisories were for, also ongoing mileage to see if someone has been fiddling with it and what the annual mileage is likely to be. Hours of fun to see how many of your old cars are on the road, SORN, or written off.

That seems on the cheap side for an '07 even with the mileage, I've seen '04's sell for a higher price then that.

Edited by samsniss350z
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I'd rather have my car, bought at 90k now on 120k in 18 months of ownership with pages and pages of work info and an enthusiastic owner than a car with 40k on the clock that's sat rotting on someone's driveway being serviced every now and again.

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I like to think you can usually tell a fair amount about how a car's been looked after by how willing the owner is to talk shop.

 

Even the least car-oriented people I know who take good care of their cars know the common faults with their model, know if theirs has it, know of the top of their heads what work they've done on it and so on.

 

When looking for mine I met at least a couple guys who, when asked about oil burning (common on a lot of big displacement engines), clicking axles (common on the 350) and even whether the clutch was in good shape, just shrugged. Their cars could be flawless but if they don't even know basic stuff, how can you trust an ad they've written that says 'car's in excellent condition' haha.

 

There's no rush, just buy from the right guy, it'll pay off.

 

Mileage isn't the worry, as I said.

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Test drove a non-HR 2007 about an hour ago, still grinning thinking about it! Glorious v6 roar and loads of pull versus my Fn2 Type-R. If it had been an HR I'd have bought on the spot!

I now know I'm going to love this car, I can't wait to have one!!

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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It does look nice, but a little out of my price range 😄 If I had 11k, I'd find a couple more and get the 370z ;)

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Gallery gaskets seem to be a common issue on the HR engines, which coinside with low oil pressure and oil usage. Another cost to factor in with that mileage is the timing chain and tensioner could well suddenly let go. I fell fowl of this and so far quotes are around £1500...

 

Definitely bullet proof engines, but not an engine you can just forget imo. As youve owned a Honda (Ex B18EK owner here) be ready to be checking oil levels regularly if you're paranoid like me :)

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I have someone local to the vehicle checking it out for me this coming Saturday. If it's good I will make the trip on Sunday or Monday to see it and possibly purchase! =D

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Correct Rocket_Rabbit but the manual states the minimum working pressures at hot idle & 2000rpm which are what you have stated, should be 28-30psi hot idle and 60 psi 2000rpm if the gaskets are good. It effects cam timing advance and makes the car feel sluggish if the gaskets are shot.

 

I definitely noticed a difference before & after the gallery gaskets were swapped to the newer steel impregnated gaskets, my pressure with a gauge off the sender was 13psi and showed 15psi in the car at hot idle. The garage that done the work took photos of the whole process and to be honest there wasn't a lot of gasket left on both. Poor design by Nissan.

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What you're sayibg is true but you have to remember that the OEM oil pressure sender unit and gauges on these cars are garbage and known to give different readings, its only when you connect it to a independent pressure tester you get a gospel figure. They create more scare mongering then good

 

Im interested in what you've said though, I dont think Ive ever it accurately at 2000RPM giving a solid 60psi reading. I only achieve that if im closer to 70mph cruising in 6th, but that makes me just over 2500RPM

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You had a timing chain go?!

 

What are the odds of that? I've never heard of that happening on one of these!

 

Timing chain didnt snap per say however it would appear the tensioner isnt happy with a distinct rattle on cold start ups if its sat for a couple days. Its not unknown for them to go with time however despite being an 03 its only done 74K...

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