ZMANALEX Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 As had been said, sometimes it can be quite challenging bleeding the coolant system, even to the informed. Best to follow the good advice that you have been previously given, however it is your prerogative to ignore and proceed with other alternatives. Your symptoms are classic air lock or blockage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Another update!still having issues, found a hose was loose that attached to my rad admnd was causing it to leak. Fixed that, replaced a couple other hoses as well, now have the stock bleed valve again and replaced the pipe behind the supercharger bracket with a stock one as the silicon one was getting crushed. I don't overheat anymore which is good but now I have another problem. When I have my mishimoto rad cap on that came with rad, it can't hold the pressure and coolant sprays all over my engine bay!I think i have a dodgy mishimoto rad cap, doesn't seem to hold pressure, it doesn't seem to be very well fitted and wobbles a bit. I have since put my stock rad cap onto my mishimoto rad, fits a lot better but when I boot it hard and come to a stop, the coolant all ends up in overflow tank. I'm confused, is this just the fact that the mishimoto one is a dodgy one and leaking therefore can't hold the pressure and leaks out the top and my stock one can hold the pressure so it don't burst out the top but too much pressure for the cap therefore putting it in overflow?!help would be much appreciated Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 sounds like there is a pressure build up either way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) Hi again, Have you done the head gasket test yet? I ask as what you are now describing is classic of a blown head gasket - it is 2 fold, firstly it keeps putting air into the coolant system and secondly it creates very high pressure in it - we are talking about cylinder head combustion pressure bleeding into a system designed to take gas expansion due to heat the result is the rad cap gives or it keeps blowing pipes off. You keep finding leaks and when you fix them you get blow off from the rad cap - I strongly suggest you test for a blown gasket there is a good chance if you catch it now new gaskets will save you maybe a quick skim, leave it and you may well blow your engine. Just my tuppence worth, hate to see this get worse. Keyser Edited June 13, 2016 by Keyser 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Thankyou for the responses, I have done a gasket test twice now and both times came back with no issues. I did a test when I first started having issues, and did again a few weeks ago when I drove and the coolant ended up in overflow. I have ordered a cusco rad cap which will hopefully hold the pressure, I've read on other forums that the mishimoto rad seems to have quite a few issues with the cap being faulty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Thankyou for the responses, I have done a gasket test twice now and both times came back with no issues. I did a test when I first started having issues, and did again a few weeks ago when I drove and the coolant ended up in overflow. I have ordered a cusco rad cap which will hopefully hold the pressure, I've read on other forums that the mishimoto rad seems to have quite a few issues with the cap being faulty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Good man I hope it is just a dodgy rad cap, pressure is always more when you boot the car as the water pump runs faster but it should not be blowing back. What oil temps are you seeing? How much boost and do you have an oil cooler? Just wonder if it is just getting hotter than the rad can handle, I assume the fans are OK and working fine? Keyser 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Yeah I'm running a stillen oil cooler on it. I'm not sure what boost I'm running on it, the glowshift boost gauge doesn't seem to work which is annoying, doesn't seem to register any boost, but it's definitely making boost 😠Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hm.... Same like im reading mine issues. As well i did replaced my OEM radiator, fan shrouds, thermostat and radiator cap with Mishimoto ones. My car is as well boosted. Same issues i was facing. As soon as i start pushing car to rev limiter 3 4 5 gear I ve start having rpm cut due to Haltech monitoring coolant temp and going over 100 °C. First i replaced thermostat and put OEM one. I was thinking that solved problem but... Again issues as soon as I start pushing car rev cut appeara and coolant gauge starts going up. Replaced radiator cap with Oem one. Again drained the car with that Jar you mount onto your radiator similar to what Keyser is mentioning. All appeared ok. I did 400 km run all seemed well. And than again rev cut. All this was already start becoming a real pain in the butt. Again came to garage and again drain. Yesterday i borrow a test kit for blown head gaskets. Tested car repeatedly in all condition maybe 20 times all results where negative. Again hook up that jar and lifted the front of the car in the air and let it run for a while with heater on reving it up and again after all this draining it was still releasing air. In one momet it just blew huge blast of water over jar. We cool down the car added coolant and drain again. Well i was thinking and hopping it was ok until i start pushing car last nite and again rev cut. I went mental. Took dinner and after glass of wine i took car for punishment. Same problem rev cut which means coolant temp high. I filled in some gas went back home and in one moment I feel im flying 6 speed no rev cut i look speedo and i was over last digits. I was suprised that it didnt rev cut again. I have noticed from all this draining it was not moving needle from it usual position like when it was stock. Will test again today and see how to we stand. From my side i only don't have that pressure like you do in expansion jar or cap. Its all normal here Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 My car kept overheating originally, cracked the OEM radiator. Replaced with mishimoto rad and fan setup. The bleed valve at the back started leaking, so replaced that. Replaced my thermostat as thought that may be causing issues. Replaced some hoses that I that may have been getting blocked behind supercharger bracket. Then found a loose radiator hose that was leaking underneath car. Fixed that. After numerous bleeding the system attempts, no overheating, think the air lock had gone. All that happens now is my coolant pisses itself into the overflow. Lol, I did put my stock rad cap back on due to the mishimoto one leaking. Hoping that this is the end of the line now and a new rad cap will fix it. I honestly can't take much more of this. I've replaced pretty much the entire cooling system. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 @snjur sorry to hear about your issues too bud. Hopefully yours is fixed. From searching arpund on different forums, there are a lot of people that have issues with mishimoto rads. Which setup you got?vortech v3? It's so annoying, proper love hate relationship with the car atm, when I get to drive it, it's insane with the vortech kit and puts a massive smile on my face. But being able to drive the thing seems to very few and far between at the moment. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Mine is Greddy twin turbo. Buddy of mine has same setup on oem radiator and other friend single turbo also on oem radiator. I was the only one having this problems. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Thankyou for the responses, I have done a gasket test twice now and both times came back with no issues. I did a test when I first started having issues, and did again a few weeks ago when I drove and the coolant ended up in overflow. I have ordered a cusco rad cap which will hopefully hold the pressure, I've read on other forums that the mishimoto rad seems to have quite a few issues with the cap being faulty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Good man I hope it is just a dodgy rad cap, pressure is always more when you boot the car as the water pump runs faster but it should not be blowing back. What oil temps are you seeing? How much boost and do you have an oil cooler? Just wonder if it is just getting hotter than the rad can handle, I assume the fans are OK and working fine? Keyser I know this is a massive long shot, it was mentioned to me that maybe I have melted my berk HFCs and this may be causing car to run hotter than it should. Would this cause an issue?I only say this due to when I went for a drive before all the issues with one of my mates apparently my exhaust was glowing red?!and upon reving on stand still popped out baby flames, which shouldn't really happen with hfcs on should it? Hm.... Same like im reading mine issues. As well i did replaced my OEM radiator, fan shrouds, thermostat and radiator cap with Mishimoto ones. My car is as well boosted.Same issues i was facing. As soon as i start pushing car to rev limiter 3 4 5 gear I ve start having rpm cut due to Haltech monitoring coolant temp and going over 100 °C. First i replaced thermostat and put OEM one. I was thinking that solved problem but... Again issues as soon as I start pushing car rev cut appeara and coolant gauge starts going up. Replaced radiator cap with Oem one. Again drained the car with that Jar you mount onto your radiator similar to what Keyser is mentioning. All appeared ok. I did 400 km run all seemed well. And than again rev cut. All this was already start becoming a real pain in the butt. Again came to garage and again drain. Yesterday i borrow a test kit for blown head gaskets. Tested car repeatedly in all condition maybe 20 times all results where negative. Again hook up that jar and lifted the front of the car in the air and let it run for a while with heater on reving it up and again after all this draining it was still releasing air. In one momet it just blew huge blast of water over jar. We cool down the car added coolant and drain again. Well i was thinking and hopping it was ok until i start pushing car last nite and again rev cut. I went mental. Took dinner and after glass of wine i took car for punishment. Same problem rev cut which means coolant temp high. I filled in some gas went back home and in one moment I feel im flying 6 speed no rev cut i look speedo and i was over last digits. I was suprised that it didnt rev cut again. I have noticed from all this draining it was not moving needle from it usual position like when it was stock. Will test again today and see how to we stand. From my side i only don't have that pressure like you do in expansion jar or cap. Its all normal here Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Thankyou for the responses, I have done a gasket test twice now and both times came back with no issues. I did a test when I first started having issues, and did again a few weeks ago when I drove and the coolant ended up in overflow. I have ordered a cusco rad cap which will hopefully hold the pressure, I've read on other forums that the mishimoto rad seems to have quite a few issues with the cap being faulty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Good man I hope it is just a dodgy rad cap, pressure is always more when you boot the car as the water pump runs faster but it should not be blowing back. What oil temps are you seeing? How much boost and do you have an oil cooler? Just wonder if it is just getting hotter than the rad can handle, I assume the fans are OK and working fine? Keyser Could melted berk hfcs cause an issue?I only say this because issues started happening after a motorway pull and my exhaust apparently glowing red a few months ago. Is it possible for this to make the car run hotter than usual? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 As you have already checked for hydrocarbons in the coolant it kind of rules out the head gasket, which to me would be the logical cause, given that the cooling system is indeed bled correctly, and as I said before since the rad is an uprated item, cooling should be adequate, The fact that the excessive coolant transfer to the header tank indicates that there is a pressurisation problem, but whether its caused by the head gasket or a crack, or air in the system its difficult to know without being able to run tests on the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Could melted berk hfcs cause an issue?I only say this because issues started happening after a motorway pull and my exhaust apparently glowing red a few months ago. Is it possible for this to make the car run hotter than usual? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk ] The fact that the HFC s melted and glowed would indicate either a partially blocked cat, or that there is a combustion problem, IE burnt valve, running very lean etc, have you run a compression test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 No I haven't run a compression test yet Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 We have had n/a 350z show no signs of HG issues at idle or even under light loads but as soon as tested on the dyno it becomes apparent so not convinced the usual testing can either confirm or eliminate the HG failing all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 No I haven't run a compression test yet Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk I would make that and a leak-down test a priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 We have had n/a 350z show no signs of HG issues at idle or even under light loads but as soon as tested on the dyno it becomes apparent so not convinced the usual testing can either confirm or eliminate the HG failing all the time But a sniffer test would reveal hydrocarbons in the coolant if there was indeed a leak under high load, and since the OP says it happens under load it should be apparent on testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mishimoto Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Sorry we are a little late to this thread AngryHippo. If you continue to have problems with the Mishimoto parts you installed, please feel free to contact us directly at support@mishimoto.com and we would be happy to help with the diagnosis. Thanks! Pat M 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Update on the situation. Turns out that it's a headgasket that's gone! Took it to Horsham Developments after it sounding like it was misfiring at around 4k revs and they have given me the bad news.....headgasket failure ...awaiting to get more info on it. Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Oh and the sniffer test didn't show anything which is annoying since I wouldn't have spent so much time and money if that stupid thing had actually revealed a headgasket problem in the first place. So frustrating Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 How's the issue going buddy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryHippo Posted July 22, 2016 Author Share Posted July 22, 2016 How's the issue going buddy ? Um....blown headgasket, been quoted 2.5k -3k to get a new engine as a best option Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Ouch. Im in a similar place. My car runs fine on the road but over heats on track. How much stick would you need to give it to get the oem gauge to move?? I need to hammer mine tbf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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