Dicky Posted October 20, 2015 Posted October 20, 2015 Rang a couple of main dealers and one decent independent for a ballpark figure to replace both rear brake pipes (not the flexes) with copper. Independant £350 Main 1 £200 Main 2 £145 Main dealer 2 said it wouldn't cost much more to replace the front as well, and was led me to believe it would be around £150. Booked in for Friday. Quote
GMballistic Posted October 20, 2015 Posted October 20, 2015 Hope they stick to their "ballpark" figure and haven't just gone in low to get you through the door. Good luck. Quote
Renegade Posted October 20, 2015 Posted October 20, 2015 Does the petrol tank have to come off to change the rears ? Quote
Dicky Posted October 21, 2015 Author Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Does the petrol tank have to come off to change the rears ? Don't think so because the guy said they allow something like 1hr/ side for the rears so I doubt if that would include the tank removal. Hope they stick to their "ballpark" figure and haven't just gone in low to get you through the door. Good luck. If he doesn't you can come up to Newcastle to hold him while I hit him repeatedly!!! Edited October 21, 2015 by Dicky 1 Quote
Dicky Posted October 23, 2015 Author Posted October 23, 2015 Back brake pipes now sorted. They didn't replace the full run of pipe from each wheel as it would have meant the removal of lots of bits under the car including the fuel tank. Because of location of the pipes there was no deterioration other than at the pipe to flexi bracket in the wheel arch where Nissan had originally remove approx 2" of the plastic covering to make off the end connection. The garage put a joint in the pipe under the car, running copper pipe from that replacing the corroded piece. Total price £155. Things didn't go well though because while driving home the pedal was very very spongy and had to be pumped several years times to be able to brake. It's going back in on Tue but they seem to be suggesting the problem may be the brake cylinder or servo. Which I very much doubt as they were OK prior to the work Quote
Jp606 Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Guarantee it wans't bled properly, the Z has to be bled in a specific order which is different to most other cars. NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF inner nipples, then outer. Edited October 24, 2015 by Jp606 Quote
GMballistic Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 Maybe worth mentioning top the garage mechanic about the correct brake bleeding order to see if they followed it. "NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF (inner nipple first or both at the same time)." Post n#15 in this thread the guy has had the same issue as you Dicky: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/21148-bleeding-brakes/ Good luck getting it sorted. Quote
Dicky Posted October 25, 2015 Author Posted October 25, 2015 Maybe worth mentioning top the garage mechanic about the correct brake bleeding order to see if they followed it. "NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF (inner nipple first or both at the same time)." Post n#15 in this thread the guy has had the same issue as you Dicky: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/21148-bleeding-brakes/ Good luck getting it sorted. Good info, cheers young man! 1 Quote
Dicky Posted October 27, 2015 Author Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Well the brakes are spot on now, thanks to all of you for for your input. I took the bleeding method with me and explained to the Service Manager how it should be done, which appeared to be news to him and of course took all the credit when it succeeded. It's a bit frightening that the main dealer doesn't know how to bleed the brakes or at least where to get the required info from and even more frightening that they tell you they've road tested it when it's quite obvious they hadn't. Anyway all's that ends well...thanks again Edited October 28, 2015 by Dicky 1 Quote
GMballistic Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Great news Dicky. Car stops as it should which is the main thing. 1 Quote
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