Ekona

You'll get closer to the 997's limits on the track than you would the other two, and you'd have a lot of fun playing with the fat rear end and the pointy front. The GT-R will be considerably quicker than the other two, but it's still a big car that doesn't make a particularly nice noise. Stonkingly capable, but lacks the emotion. The Lambo will be the most difficult to extract the best from, and the gearbox will drive you nuts, but you can console yourself with that noise and those looks, and the fact that it's a genuine supercar. One's a Beetle, one's a Datsun, the other one is a Lamborghini! You can blag a test drive in a GT-R or 997 any day of the week, whereas I suspect getting a Lambo out for a blast might prove a bit trickier. A Gallardo is still £60K to buy, whereas you can pick either of the others up for £35K now. Drive something that is unobtainable, not common as muck.

It's a common-as-muck Nissan, not a 60 year-old Ferrari. It'll survive a winter regardless of what you do to it. Hell, even if you just parked it up and left it exactly how it is now you could start it in 6 months time off a battery pack without any issues, promise. The much better idea is just to carry on driving it of course...

Are you leaving the car alone for two years? No? Then don't worry about it. It'll make no difference in practical terms whether the tank is full or empty or somewhere inbetween, just keep the battery on a trickle charger and start it up every 4 weeks or so.

No way will it be £20K over here. If it is I'll post a photo of myself in a mankini. I reckon £25K for the base version and £28K for the posh one.

Oh, if only it would look like that...

I've seen worse, but unless they're going to put some decent tyres on it then it's never going to have the performance it should have. I'll be interested to drive it, and I'm glad it's so relatively light, but I can't see it setting the world on fire. The Subaru version on the other hand should be a much more appropriate car, and I don't even really like turbocharged engines!

The pull to left is because your alignment is out, so get that sorted too. I'll delete your other thread as this has more info in it now, but unless that other tyre is almost brand-new then you'll need to replace both anyway as you should always replace both equally across an axle. There is no diff in the front, I suggest you have a read up about what diffs do to realise why it doesn't need one there. What tyres do you have on there now?

Gallardo every time. It's not even close.

Agreed, but then you should be doing a couple of warm-up laps for both the car and the driver anyway.

I probably wouldn't touch them again if it were me, but that depends very much on the weather conditions and how the track is changing. I get quite lazy on trackdays tbh and I'll normally just find a setting that feels comfortable for the whole day and stick with it, and often I won't change tyre pressures at all from cold first thing. I don't have a particularly aggressive driving style so tyre wear is minimal for me, and if I overheat the tyres (which I have done, but only the once) it serves as a reminder that I've been out too long and should be coming in for a break anyway.

Scary, isn't it?!

Bear in mind that all OEM recommended pressures are for cold tyres, and they expect them to heat up during use. As such, a when-warm temp of 40+ is to be expected especially on a sports car when pushing on. FWIW I've never checked the warm temps of the tyres on the 911, as it feels planted and stable and predictable and because of that I know the pressures are correct (although I do deviate 2 psi from the recommended Porsche pressures at the front as that's how I like my cars setup). Because everyone has different driving styles and outside temps vary greatly over the course of a year I wouldn't pay too much attention to absolute pressures when warm, it's more important to get the cold setting right and then adjust relative to how the car feels when on track. On a very hot track day in the middle of summer then you might want to drop 5psi all round, but on the same track the next day when it's overcast you may want to drop just 2psi or even just leave them alone if there's a bit of rain from the night before. Predictability is the key to fast, smooth driving whether that's on road or track IMHO.

Put them to whatever you're happy with, but be aware that whilst low pressures will give you more grip due to more tyre being in contact with the road, you'll also get increased wear. Too high and you'll end up with the middle bald as well, so it's a balancing act really. If you felt comfortable with the 33F34R combo then I'd stick with that. Personally I think that's too low for the floppy sidewalls of the Falkens and would set them to the 36F37R I mentioned earlier, but in all honesty you're not going to go far wrong in terms of tyre wear/damage anywhere in the 30-40 psi range.

Did you reset the pressures after the day?

Sounds like someone was riding the clutch whilst doing those donuts

Andy only says that to minimise tyre wear as North Weald is so abrasive.

Remove all units, remove washing machine, remove sink from old worktop, cut new worktop, fit sink, cut back/extend waste & water supplies, refit units, fit new worktop, connect and test. A day's work and because the space is limited (especially when you've got both units in and you're crouched down trying to work between them doing the connections) I'd put a bit extra on top for the ballache. That would include materials though to be fair, and allowing for the replacing of the inevitable broken tiles when you remove the worktops. *EDIT* Just re-read your post, you want the worktop replaced both sides? Yup, I'll stick with £500 easy, although it may be less up your way: I'm working on SE prices here.

I was going to say a couple of hundred quid until I saw the size of the gap between the two worktops. Now I'd say nearer £500, 'cost that's just going to be a PITA. Also, let the plumber supply his own pipe and fittings, you'll only buy crap from B&Q and there's nothing worse than trying to do some work for someone with cheap fittings. The extra labour needed to stop the fittings leaking will wipe out any cost saving and then some!

Use the scrollwheel on your mouse, or check where the forum is on the main forum section before you open up the search page.

Trust me, loads of duct tape underneath and in the engine bay, slap a bit of baby oil on the car before you put the clingfilm on if you're really worried. Oh, and deffo pixplz!

Leave them exactly how they are. You're used to how the car handles and the How Fast days aren't about extended periods of time on track, which is fortunate as the 452s will melt after a bit of pushing. I'd set them to 36f and 37r, give the front a smidgen more bite though if it were me.

I still don't see why you can't use clingfilm. Loads of it on, and secure it under the bodywork. No worse than a car bra rubbing on the paint. Job = carrot.

Happiness. No really, the film called Happiness. One of the darkest, most twisted yet utterly normal films you'll ever watch. It was recommended to me ages ago and I impulse purchased because it was cheap on DVD, and it was one of the best decisions I ever made.

Get short term loan, buy Zed, flog Hyundai Although to be fair I'd be chopping it in at a dealer if I were in your shoes too. Don't get too hung up on warranties unless it's from a Nissan main dealer as you'll find the exclusions as long as your arm.

He's got a three-place grid penalty already for ignoring waved yellows, although it does seem a bit harsh as there was a green light in front of him and there was no yellow light on his steering wheel. I guess the FIA are going to be hot on safety stuff this weekend though after recent motorsport fatalities.