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Everything posted by Ekona
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Alpine head unit with ipod and bluetooth with pics
Ekona replied to Zazur's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
Yup, doesn't really make that much difference though. It seems to work more on the treble than the volume, which does distort the final quality somewhat. -
Alpine head unit with ipod and bluetooth with pics
Ekona replied to Zazur's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
It's a bit iffy atm as I need to delve into the sound setup on the HU a bit more, as right now I've got loads of bass at low volume but it gets drowned out at high volume by the treble, just a minor issue that will sort itself out once I start fiddling. The sub isn't quite there yet as it was with the Bose in due to this (well, it's fine on some songs but not on others), but when it is right it's perfect and I have no doubt that a bit of fine tuning will give me everything I need. The sounds quality has improved greatly too, as you can really hear the subtleties of the music that got lost in the Bose. -
Alpine head unit with ipod and bluetooth with pics
Ekona replied to Zazur's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
Fitted mine today, very nice piece of kit indeed! My install doesn't look quite as neat as yours though as the MY06 DIN adaptor forces the HU to sit a lot further back in the console, but it's not so bad that I can't live with it. Besides, I wanted it for what it could do rather than how it looked and the iPod control is flawless. Just for note as well, if connecting to Bose sub + speakers you DO NOT need a line booster, as the volume is well within normal limits. Might save someone else buying a line booster unnecessarily -
Fitted mine today, haven't had a chance to drive her yet but even just playing around in the driveway, it felt a hell of a lot easier to get my fat feet over to the accelerator. Quality mod, really glad I went for this now
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If you're considering a set of PSCs, then you might want to look at the R888s/A048s instead. All road legal track day tyres, and I'm willing to bet they're both a lot cheaper than the PSCs. PS2s should do all you need on the road unless you're particularly serious about track days, and if you are then you'd still be better off with the A048s (although you will need strengthened suspension parts to accommodate the extra load from the increased grip).
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Got mine today, many thanks to Tim and Adam for all their work in getting this sorted Lovely piece of kit btw, looking forward to fitting mine this weekend.
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It's only a clutch, and DT have had enough experience with cars to know what they're doing regardless of make/model. £180 is a competitive price, I'd stick with them
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I've got a regular garage which is about as narrow as you'll ever find, and mine fits in if you park over to the left as much as you dare. The door will then open enough to let you out without too much of an issue, but don't forget to line the wall of the garage with carpet or something equally soft! I had more of an issue with the length of the car, as it's surprising just how long it actually is.
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There are no valves in the exhaust. It's a Nissan, not an Aston.
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But you obviously knew the plates were illegal anyway, right? Ah well, at least you tried and he went the decent way about it, as opposed to a talking-down by the side of the road. Fair play to him.
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It is true that a lightened flywheel will make more noise at idle than stock, but it does depend on how light you go. For example, the stock flywheel weighs 24lbs, so the RPS one at 18lbs isn't going to rattle anywhere near as much as the Fidanza one at 13.5lbs (all weights from here). Given the gains possible I feel it's worth doing if the clutch has got to come out anyway, and how long do you actually spend sitting at idle anyway? When moving the engine/exhaust/road noise will drown out any rattles, although you should be aware you'll have to give it a fraction more gas when pulling away to avoid stalling.
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Personally I wouldn't worry about it, and neither would I make any sort of effort to get in touch with them. If it was that urgent then you'd have had a knock on the door, but since you haven't then I'd carry on as normal.
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Less rotating mass, so your revs will rise and fall quicker. You'll also free up more power as it's not being wasted trying to move a heavy flywheel around. Another ex-SELOCer here too :bye:
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DING That's a bigger issue than the TC being a bit playful.
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Interesting, haven't heard that term used before and is worth looking at I think. I've been a bit busy this week so haven't had a chance to progress any further with my diagnostics, so I really need to start looking at it this week if I can Thanks for the input, much appreciated
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Sadly these ones really won't buff out, they're very deep. I've been offered one from a breakers for £100, which assuming it's in perfect condition isn't too bad at all. Anyone know if the glass is the same shape and tint across all years, all regions and from coupe to roadster?
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My passenger window was scratched to buggery a few weeks ago (not my fault, not the car and not vandalism, long story) and now it looks like I need a new one Anyone got any idea how much these are to get hold of?
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They should have gone through it with you when you were there, but generally that will mean your pads were getting low. Stick your head under and have a look after taking the wheel off, you'll know for sure then. Best get them done before you've got no pad left and start eating discs!
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£1K is a healthy mates rate, seeing as how they advertise an average size family car from £1500 +VAT! I doubt you'd see much change from £2K on the Zed, dependant on what kind of vinyl you went for. Shame it's so pricey, as I'd love to do something like that to mine for the annual Le Mans pilgrimage.
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Adam if you do have the bits laying around that would be great, happier to buy from someone who knows exactly what I need regardless of distance. I do already have the bolts in place through the rear holes, that was the only way we knew we had the brace in the right place!
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That was pretty much our thinking on Sunday, that there had to be a specific fixing or something for the brace. Now all I need to do is to get hold of one...! Thanks for your help chaps, I'll try and source the bits I need. Alex, if I don't succeed any reason why a rivnut wouldn't work?
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Sorry Steve, I didn't mean for my post to sound like a dig at you at all. I wasn't surprised to get no instructions with the braces as that's pretty much how I'd assumed you'd have got them from ESR anyway, hence why I didn't contact you first at all as I know if you'd had them then you'd have sent them. I apologise if my post came across as a dig at all, certainly wasn't meant that way. I'll e-mail Invoauto I think and see what they say about it.
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That's exactly where mine should go, but I've got no thread to wind a bolt into at the two fixings on the gearbox end. There's three holes in the chassis there, but none are threaded.
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Had the car since 1st Feb 2008, only had this problem since end of November.
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Anyone here ever fitted it before? I've got the complete set and tried fitting it at the weekend minus any instructions. The kit looks like this: I've got the small brace that fits between the two front lower control arms on, and I've worked out where the other two long bits go as well. The trouble I'm having is with the big X-brace, as I know where it's supposed to go but there's no bolts or even nuts to bolt to! The actual location is as this: As per the picture, the bottom two bolts (exhaust end) are fine, but where the top two go (gearbox end) there's no bolt or nut or thread there on my car, so just how do you fit it? If needs be I can always drop a rivnut in the hole that's there, but there must be a different way of doing it as the rest of the kit just bolts up exactly where you'd expect it to, and it seems a bit weird that they want you to bolt to a place that has no existing bolt there... Anyone got any ideas?