stanski

Well the engine bay is big enough for a 3.5 ltr V6 but you can supercharge the original 1500 engine! They were the Golf GTi's of their day but not sure the brakes are up to the job! It is actually Lucy's car and she is doing really well on restoration skills which makes my job a lot easier! Maybe one day we can do a Zed meet in it! Jockland hoon 2010! What do you think Stew? Hell Yeah! As Lucy says, would be nice for an Aberdeen trip! Go find the cake shops with it! Well the boots big enough for plenty of cakes Seriously though we will be doing a Scotland trip in it once its all sorted and used for a while - no reason why not - will be along and slow trip but what the hell take in the scenery and B&B' on the way! yeah yeah yeah

No mods on this one Mart - just bring it back to its former glory and use for work commute (tax free) should get good fuel ecconomy and we can fix it when it goes wrong - no stealer trips or laptops required ! 1958 old tech the way I like it. It will be treated to Blackfire though after its resprayed

Well the engine bay is big enough for a 3.5 ltr V6 but you can supercharge the original 1500 engine! They were the Golf GTi's of their day but not sure the brakes are up to the job! It is actually Lucy's car and she is doing really well on restoration skills which makes my job a lot easier! Maybe one day we can do a Zed meet in it! Jockland hoon 2010! What do you think Stew?

Not sure could be that the boot is made from plastic and cant take the weight of you average spoiler?? Maybe??

Mart! Do you keep seeing single magpies or something - your having some bad luck recently! Hope you get it sorted soon?

Happy birthday guys! Have a good un

Like a lot of people once you taste the Zed life you find yourself addicted to online forums and runs up and down the country with fellow 3 headed internet monsters! Otherwise a spot of photography, DIY and restoring old bangers to name a few!

thanks gents Yes well spotted matey - I was in a hurry so I just gave it a quite wipe round with my oily rag (sock!)

(Updated 2012 - sorry but looks like my picture share site went bust and have lost my pics! - Have reloaded the guide pictures here for you) Doh! excuse the picture order is back to front - you will suss it , any questions please PM me. Hello folks Everyone keeps saying how easy it is to replace the rear pads on Brembos well I couldn't find specific guide /pictures for doing this (or just rubbish at searching the forum) so decided to do my own a simple guide with lots of pictures. Hope it will be of use. Thanks to ireynolds for advice as he did these the other week. Please note - if you have never done brakes or are not confident doing this please seek expert advice /help - we dont want any 350Z's in ditches due to sloppy brakes do we! Be careful and take your time rememeber its only a bit of rubber and these brakes stopping you from an early appointment with God! The pictures follow the sequence but here is a summary and extra info. What you will need: New set of pads (I got boggo Mintex from Brakes International) Copper grease Few rags Latex gloves 2x small screwdrivers Pliers WD-40 can or similar Few blocks of wood Axle stand 1. Park up on firm level ground. 2. Chock the wheels on the opposite side you are working on with blocks (Do one side at a time) 3. Handbrake on and put in 1st gear 4. Wrap some electrical insulation tape or similar around the wheel nuts - to stop it scratching the wheel 5. Loosen the wheel nuts a little 6. Jack up the rear side of the car using the proper jack in the correct location on the sills as shown in your handbook or sticker on the jack. 7. Place axle stand with a small block of wood on top of it - under the rear spring mount (cupped piece) 8. Lower the car onto the stand gently 9. Remove the wheel 10.Release the handbrake gently (be careful and watch if car starts to move at all). 11.Open the bonnet, pop open the brake master cyclinder cover and undo the cap on the cylinder. Put a rag (old socks are good!) around it and put the top back on. 12.Return to wheel hub. Place cardboard on the edge and use a screwdriver to prise the clips out that hold the pins. 13.Slide out the pins one at a time and make sure the big spring that presses the pads down doesn't fly off somewhere. 14.Remove the inner pads first - push them back against the cylinder to free them. 15.Remove the stainless backing plate, clean with WD-40, smear with some copper grease and stick to the new pad. Grease back of new pad also leading and following edge - DO NOT get any grease on the lining. 16.Slide the new pad back in again. 17.Pull the outer pads towards you against the cylinder to push it back same as the inner. Clean the stainless plate and grease as before. Notice the direction of the arrow on the plate (towards the ground) 18.Refit the outer pads. 19.Clean and grease the pins and small locking clips and the big spring that locks under the pins. 20.Refit the pins one at a time, you may need to push the spring down a little to help it slide in. 21.Ensure the pins have the hole facing up (outwards) as you need to refit the locking clips into them. 22.Smear with a little copper grease. 23.If your really sad like me - apply some Poorboys wheel wax to the Brembo cylinder to keep it cleaner for longer. 24.Last check everything is back in position.Refit the wheel and wheel nuts hand tight only. 25.Apply hand brake -Jack up the car - remove Axle stand, lower car. Tighten wheel nuts properly - recheck after 200 miles. 26.Repeat on the opposite wheel. 26.Remove rag around Brake Master Cylinder and screw cap back on securely.Close the cover and shut bonnet. 27.Dab the brakes 2-3 time quite hard this should reset the pads against the discs. Thats it - you just saved a fortune on garage bills! Note the pictures have been moved round to make it easy to see the innards.

Hello folks Everyone keeps saying how easy it is to replace the rear pads on Brembos well I couldn't find specific guide /pictures for doing this (or just rubbish at searching the forum) so decided to do my own a simple guide with lots of pictures. Hope it will be of use. Thanks to ireynolds for advice as he did these the other week. Please note - if you have never done brakes or are not confident doing this please seek expert advice /help - we dont want any 350Z's in ditches due to sloppy brakes do we! Be careful and take your time rememeber its only a bit of rubber and these brakes stopping you from an early appointment with God! The pictures follow the sequence but here is a summary and extra info. What you will need: New set of pads (I got boggo Mintex from Brakes International) Copper grease Few rags Latex gloves 2x small screwdrivers Pliers WD-40 can or similar Few blocks of wood Axle stand 1. Park up on firm level ground. 2. Chock the wheels on the opposite side you are working on with blocks (Do one side at a time) 3. Handbrake on and put in 1st gear 4. Wrap some electrical insulation tape or similar around the wheel nuts - to stop it scratching the wheel 5. Loosen the wheel nuts a little 6. Jack up the rear side of the car using the proper jack in the correct location on the sills as shown in your handbook or sticker on the jack. 7. Place axle stand with a small block of wood on top of it - under the rear spring mount (cupped piece) 8. Lower the car onto the stand gently 9. Remove the wheel 10.Release the handbrake gently (be careful and watch if car starts to move at all). 11.Open the bonnet, pop open the brake master cyclinder cover and undo the cap on the cylinder. Put a rag (old socks are good!) around it and put the top back on. 12.Return to wheel hub. Place cardboard on the edge and use a screwdriver to prise the clips out that hold the pins. 13.Slide out the pins one at a time and make sure the big spring that presses the pads down doesn't fly off somewhere. 14.Remove the inner pads first - push them back against the cylinder to free them. 15.Remove the stainless backing plate, clean with WD-40, smear with some copper grease and stick to the new pad. Grease back of new pad also leading and following edge - DO NOT get any grease on the lining. 16.Slide the new pad back in again. 17.Pull the outer pads towards you against the cylinder to push it back same as the inner. Clean the stainless plate and grease as before. Notice the direction of the arrow on the plate (towards the ground) 18.Refit the outer pads. 19.Clean and grease the pins and small locking clips and the big spring that locks under the pins. 20.Refit the pins one at a time, you may need to push the spring down a little to help it slide in. 21.Ensure the pins have the hole facing up (outwards) as you need to refit the locking clips into them. 22.Smear with a little copper grease. 23.If your really sad like me - apply some Poorboys wheel wax to the Brembo cylinder to keep it cleaner for longer. 24.Last check everything is back in position.Refit the wheel and wheel nuts hand tight only. 25.Apply hand brake -Jack up the car - remove Axle stand, lower car. Tighten wheel nuts properly - recheck after 200 miles. 26.Repeat on the opposite wheel. 26.Remove rag around Brake Master Cylinder and screw cap back on securely.Close the cover and shut bonnet. 27.Dab the brakes 2-3 time quite hard this should reset the pads against the discs. Thats it - you just saved a fortune on garage bills! Note the pictures have been moved round to make it easy to see the innards.

top the forum Nice Zed and best of all another softtop

Me and Lucy are doing the Hoon plus the following week but not planned anything yet? Busy trying to think about France first and my rear pads when I get home tonight need changing Only thing I will say to everyone travelling a long way - you want to get to FA before dark so ensure you give yourselves plenty of time - more to the point you will be missing out on some great scenery

to the forum (But someone had to post this!!)

Happy Birthday Mart. You swine you kept that one quiet!! :bye: (Tried to use as many smilies as I could!)

I know its a tricky one - will have to go to the stealers tomorrow morning. Coincidentally the passengar door on mine has started to make a buzzing noises when I lock or unlock mine - like a fitting is loose or something -lets hope they havn't got swine flu or something!

Yes the switch is moving inside - but its obvious that it doesn't move back as far as the drivers side one? Its either a solenoid issue or whatever - but the bigger problem is not being able to manually find a way to release the door catch to open the door to remove the door card? We can hear the motor but it must'nt be moving the catch far enough?

Hi folks hope you can help please. Lucy's passenger door wont unlock? We can hear it try to unlock but it does'nt seem to go far enough back to release the catch? Tried manually to push the door switch back and pull on the outside door handle but no joy? Did a search on the forum but no joy - checked the guide to undo the door trim but we cant as the door is closed shut! Any advice gratefuly received

No Sir still doesn't float my boat .... like the colour though . Still want to see one in the flesh but from those pics excellent as they are - its a let down for me. Shame all they needed to do is improve the interior, put decent paint on and a fancy set of alloys and plonk that engine in! Simple!

Mines on the back window of the van (No where on a ragtop to put them!)

You answer every post on the forum! Like me Doh better get off the forum and get back to the mines!

Just thought its probably seeing if you put any Blackfire or Dodo wax on? Checking out how cool it looks in the reflection!

Great idea but we may be a bit biased Nooooooooooooooo what us? It works with classic car clubs when you need to ascertain a cars value for Classic insurance purposes or to tell DVLA your car was built before 1973 to get free tax!

Probably an African Killer Bee - they are invading our shores and beating up the UK ones! (Seen it on X files!) At least it has good taste in cars!

I'm sure its cheaper than a respray but it looks like a TV dinner from Tesco to me! What happens if you scratch it in the middle of a panel ? Get a hairdrier on it and smooth it over with your finger?

Yup understand see my other posts on same subject Just keep at it - we are not the friendlest club for nothing get them trained up ! viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14626http viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20719