3FIDDYZ

Its not made by Envy... Its made my Mastergrade in the states.... Envy stock them in the UK

Yeh I saw this in the RSS feed. Top work to the team and looking forward to what they do with the 370

K2 may give you a raspy note cause of the gauge of the pipe used. Yep, best to have a listen in person. I ment to take a video on the rolling road day to get an idea of different zorsts as there were a few different ones, but I forgot!

And if you need the others... Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is “ONâ€. 3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. Operation Procedures 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learningâ€. 2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learningâ€. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch “OFF†and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. It's a little tricky, but works. 1.Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. 2.Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: 1.Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2.Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3.Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4.Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5.Wait about 10 seconds. 6.Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7.Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8.Turn ignition switch to “OFF†position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

Manifolds and HiFlows make little difference to the noise... Manifolds make a deeper note.... One cheaper way to sort it is get a differnt ypipe and loose the mid baffle.... You dont say where you are, whick would help in people letting you know about polish / chroming!

I think this is a reworked version and a new GUI of the one that Cavey had fitted on his roadster. Not seen the satnav though.. Would it be as good as garmin etc for £35? Guess its all down to getting what you pay for

Any info on your problem mate or have I just missed your post?

Always been the case on the different power with Zeds Ady, some are good some not so.. Interested on the bungs too, as Chris said, every car he has dyno'd before they have given more power when removing... Does this mean that the reflash is still adjusting now? RS, on the strap thing, have now dynoed in 3 places now with different variables and had consistant numbers, all have been strapped pretty tight from what I can tell so am happy that mine is now a lower "figure" than what it would be more loosly strapped that would give me a higher one. **EDIT** Apologies, I have just been informed that ours were done "loose"....

Oh come on then!!!

Where is the Link? If you mean this one If it is you can get a mastergrade version in carbon from Envy On the spoiler, check the for sale section on here, there is normally one or 2 around.... Enjoy the cutting Also I think someone just ordered one from spoilerdepot.com in the states for a pretty good price...

SRR are indepentent testers so nothing for them to gain either Ian. But I think your right... Just to clarify RS, you keep the straps loose so it gives better numbers? Or you tighten them up and it gives you 20 more? I dont think its the case of being hung up on the numbers, how else are we supposed to tell!! Unfortunatly there is a magic 300bhp number with these cars (yep psycological!)! Also on the increases between different dynos I understand the logic, the car made 14bhp on your rollers but between the weston and the SRR it made 19.2 so there is a bit of room for differnet rollers. On the torque however, between the weston and SRR 0 increase... but on RS's it found 30ft/lbs or so.. Given the different rollers and a rough % calculation I would have thought you would have been showing about 275 ft/lbs on the SRR?

Burrrrrrrrrrr ILLIANT!!! Top photography mate

Zstore / Envy all good Not used anyone in bham, but I think CS is that way...

Unfortunaly missed this one, looks like a great day!! Oh BTW, the Chilli, Dan, Andy convoy on the way back on the M1......... You all got owned... And spotted.... By my Mom!

Get in car, pop hood, get out of car, shut door, open hood, disconnect battery......... just dont shut the door when you have the battery disconnected! As you may be replacing the door glass! Thats for fitting! Not sure about leaving it for 5 days without using, 12hours perhaps! Simple! (As is typing full words )

FYI on the dyno's about 8 weeks ago mine was in for tuning at GTart, it got to 287, the day after it ran 291 at SRR, then ran mine yesterday at SRR it got 291.. so its reading right if not a little high at SRR.. The part about the dyno reading different on different days no longer really hold for david anymore as its been reflashed so it shouldnt be changing (clarification needed from Abbey or RS on that one...) But I would say that potentially a 20bhp loss needs looking at as to me, after all you have paid for an increase! If you look at your torque numbers (perhaps more important!) you have the same on your first and last but your RS one is way more... Also look where your torque / bhp numbers are starting at RS... 2250 revs, where as the other numbers start lower...

Had the same on mine mate, looked like my coolent was low, toped it up and it was fine for ages. Was doing 70ish on a bend joining the M11... Happened again when I got my wheels refurbed ecu reset and its been fine again ever since!

Each to their own mate But no, I dont.. One of the reasons is that the overlay only goes on the top of the dash, not down the sides so just looks "stuck on". But if you like it then go for it, it your car

What do you want to know? If you cant use the windows for a week then dont put them down! Are you doing it yourself or getting it done?

Make sure you didnt trap the gasket around the oil filler... Did you remove the OEM gasket or did you leave that in there? Also make sure you have the vacuum hose attached at the front under the engine cover, you dont remove it but it can come loose and also there is a small nipple on the front left of the plenum that should have a cap on it, again shouldnt have removed but just check... Apart from that, cant think! Did you fit the lower gasket too?

Crash into Halfords? Or if you really must ruin your interior! http://lmgtfy.com/?q=350z+interior+dash+kit

I would hazard a guess that buddyclub and megan stuff is made in Tiawan. Envy and SRBpower are both dealers for buddyclub in the UK too so maybe they can give you a price...

No hes talking about the cover with the gash Z cut out.....

Prob not as the brackets are too flat but could be modified. There are UK dealers for Megan racing...