Adam@Z1auto.com

no problems at all...compared to some of the threads I have endure on the US sites, you mind has well have showed up with a nice roast and freshly baked cookies

Absolutely yes, and I was going to pm you before posting it I'm anal retentive about stuff like that. I hate seeing pics I've taken, or product descriptions I've written used on other vendor sites (happens ALL the time too!) PM me a link to your site as well, or an email address and I'll make sure its including in the posting.

the top speed limiter is another part of the ecu, not related to the throttle plate, but also something that can be changed

slightly yes - I had this fixed on my car back a number of years ago, as part of a reflash I had done. If someone feels like donating their stock ecu for a few days I can see if we're able to do it for a UK/JDM spec car as well

What exactly is the car doing?

I would love to feature the car on our blog - let me know if it's ok (and shoot me a quick list of the mods )

sold the car such a shame the wheels looked terrific! What is next on the list of cars?

The tps reset procedure will not help in this case - only thing that can be done is a reflash of the factory ecu to allow full opening of the blade

looks fantastic Stew!!

Just getting our feet wet in the blogging world! http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/ We started it Monday night, and promise to keep it regularly updated with as much quality content as possible! Thanks! Adam

Hotchkis works particularly well on the 03's, as well as the RSR springs and Eibach Pro Kit. I find the Hotchkis and RSR to work the best on the older models, as they have a tendency to get quite bouncy in the rear. Both these springs tame that significantly, and ride essentially like a stock car, with just a modest drop (about 3/4 inch) - noticeable but not to the point of it being "slammed". Better overal comfort to the Eibach Pro Kit as well I find (again on earlier models)

several good choices, depends on the year of the car though, as the shocks differ based on production date

what tires are you running? for street use, set front and rear dampening down a click - I think I used to run mine at 1 up front, 2 out back, and on 18 inch T1S, set to 35 psi cold. Falken 245/35/19 & 275/35/19 gotcha - no experience with those I'm afraid, sorry ride quality has alot to do with tires, tire pressure, etc. If your roads are particularly bumpy, as they are near us, try the settings I suggested and let me know how you make out

what tires are you running? for street use, set front and rear dampening down a click - I think I used to run mine at 1 up front, 2 out back, and on 18 inch T1S, set to 35 psi cold. The V3 are a fantastic setup as well and one we've done loads of times also on the Z. It's biggest downside is that being 2 way adjustable for compression and rebound, the level of adjustment is usually outside the realm of what most end users skill level. It really takes some specialized datalogging equipment to make the most of them, which is why for most people, the V2 are a better overall choice. To date, for pure street use, the Bilsteins have been my favorite, and I've used close to 30 different sets of coilovers over the years on the Z

wow - 1400 quid is nuts! give us a ring if you are after these...we're a direct bilstein dealer and MUCH less than that! We've sold a ton here in the states

we have a spoiler in stock ready to go if you are still after one

Doing test pipes (decat) will net more power than high flow cats, but they do emit more odor (nothing there to absorb the gas fumes) and are louder Plenum spacers are a nice, cost effective way to get some more power throughout the rev range. Intake wise - pick your poison. None really amount to anything with basic bolt ons. A full exhaust will net decent NA gains as well. True dual or Y pipe + catback,. again pick your poison type of deal. All net similar gains, it comes down to sound/budget/looks. Overall the tune is mandatory to reap the most benefits. The exhaust mods coupled with the spacer and a solid tune will net you in the 20-30 whp range gains consistently, sometimes even a bit higher. On my own car, I went from a base line of 224 whp to 269 whp with just these basic mods. Of course that was not enough, so I then went further to a full NA build

love it! anyone want to buy a 'lightly' modded Z

I don't believe the Haltch affects the speed limiter at all but have never really examined it, as US cars are limited to 155 as I recall...more than enough for most

overal comfort has far more to do with the tire than it does the diameter of the wheel

you need a new battery mate, sounds like its just dropped a cell and is not holding a charge. Not a big deal, happened on my car about a year and a half ago once I hit ~40k miles (my car is an early 04, got it September 03). My advice - just buy one from the dealership, they are quite inexpensive (about $65 US here).

245/35 front, 265/35 rear will work just fine - total stagger is 2.1% front to back .6% difference from factory), which is more than acceptable

many times they are right....but I'm not just some random forum poster 245/35 front, 265/35 rear will work just fine.

also fwiw I've had a Clifford in my car for years now, 0 issues. 9 times out of 10, it's in the install

there are fuses located in the battery compartment (passenger side on US cars, might be drivers side on yours), as well as relays, but again, I've never once seen one go bad. Really quick test if the alternator is working is - get a voltmeter. With the car running, you should see roughly 13-14 volts at idle. There is a ground wire IIRC that goes from the alternator to the chassis, and also the main power lead for the alternator. Make sure those connections are tight, and free of any oxidation. Also check the battery terminals to make sure they are sufficiently tight as well. I'd almost bet in the end its a very very simple issue, but tracking it down might just take some legwork