Adam@Z1auto.com

we've got the K&N's in stock if you don't find a used one

yes they fit

Paul - at the wheels, but remember, power seems to be one of those often argued terms on the web Here in the states, approx. 400 whp on a Dynojet, for example, is very often seen, from a stock bottom end, from a variety of forced induction kits. How that translates to your local dyno though is the variable of course. Kits like the Power Enterprise, Turbonetics, APS, Vortech, etc are all designed in their base form, for stock engines - power can of course go up on each one with the right supporting mods, etc etc.

Injen is another loud one

those are just the louder ones that come to mind Quiet ones - simple - Fujitsubo, Tanabe Touring Medallion, Apexi WS2

absolutely, would definitely get a tech to look it over - hopefully nothing serious

really is an impossible thing to quantify, since there are so many, and loud does not necessarily mean "sounds poor", and vice versa Altered Atmosphere 3 inch true dual Greddy TIC TT Invidia G200 Turbo XS HKS Hi Power Powerhouse Amuse Ti best bet IMHO is going to a meet and deciding what you like - or, deciding what you don't like - from there it's easier to make a recommendation

sounds like the sending unit...quite a common issue

we've used them a few times. Excellent kit for the $ - very comfortable, and full height adjustment

water temp indicated as normal on the gauge, so thermostat was opening if the heat works, thats also an indicator that the thermostat is opening

the water pump is driven off the timing chain - I've never once seen one go bad, and you would know if it was at at fault (bearings would be very loud) I'd recommend doing a compression check

yep - some will fit both LHD and RHD, others will not. Which are you considering Paul?

not a good sign when they need to steal the original manufacturers picture to show how their replica kit would look as Andy mentioned.

lololol - she's still half a country away from me. All in good fun

they are on the Fiat Punto forums

we offer a full diagnostic tool system that is direct plug and play http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=3399 it was conceived around the Z, but works on other Nissan models as well - full diagnostic scanner, allows you to adjust idle and timing, reset ecu codes, and datalog. I use this all the time on my own car, it is invaluable!

lots of options, really depends on your personal preference in terms of looks/budget Check out our thread in the vendor classifieds - we have a bunch of Volks and AME wheels in stock you might like http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... highlight= in terms of fender rolling/rubbing, it really is dependant on a few things - alignment, the exact tire size, etc. We generally recomend people who are fitting 10 inch wheels with a low 20 offset or greater to count on having to roll their rear fenders especially if lowering the car. Thankfully fender rolling is neither difficult to do, nor expensive (if you are paying someone else), and it will avoid any potential issues.

my wheels are 19x9 +19 and 19x10 +14

do you have the standard shifter/shift lever in the car? Have either ever been removed? there is a single nut that affixes the lever to the rod that leads to the transmission - sometimes that nut can back off just slightly and the result is not only vibration, but also the ability to move the shifter side to side (perhaps 1/2 inch) even when the car is in gear. It's very easy to tighten down (have to be under the car) - use a bit of thread lock as well. The stock shift lever itself is glued on, and Nissan actually changed the glue in the 04 and up models - worth looking at as well. If you're feeling the noise and vibration through the lever, chances are it's not the axle

offsets are fine, but those are incredibly small tires for such wide wheels On a 9.5, 10.5, better option is at least a 255 up front, 285 out back. Our customers all run the 265 front, 285 or 295 rear combo - really helps fill the wheel out better and protects the lip from curb rash

thanks Stew!

we have one customer with an 04 track, 114k miles on the original clutch - he does about 10 track days a year too! It really comes down to luck of the draw, coupled with driver skill. On my original engine, we took it out with approximately 52k miles on the clock. Sold the engine, complete with clutch and flywheel to a local custoer who had blown his motor (Turbonetics kit, but he never had it properly tuned). 24k miles later, it's still in his car (thankfully, he had it tuned properly now!)

Suspension work is as follows HKS Coilovers Cusco swaybars Powergrid endlinks Cusco a arms Cusco rear camber/toe link kit Full NISMO bushing kit Tein Tie Rods/Rod ends NISMO front performance damper

thanks Trev

edit - found one from Z Dayz