Chris`I

If I was a betting man, I would be putting my money on that! Dealers of all people should know you should always change tyres on the same axle in pairs! They should have had 4 new ones all round. If I was you I would check out the makes and sizes of all the tyres and roughly how much tread is left and we can tell you if thats likely to be the cause

Different profile front to rear is quite common if you are running different width wheels front to rear. If you think that profile is the percentage of the width, a wider tyre needs less as a percentage of its width to be the same height as a thinner tyre. Be sure that the supplier you are getting them off knows the stock rolling radius of the Nissan OEM setup and make sure they stick to it. Its when they dont know that they can confuse the traction control. On the Zed, the RR acutally differs from front to rear and you need to keep this stagger (RR not width).

Can we have the details on your wheel and tyre sizes, makes and tread left. Normally this is caused by the front to rear stagger in rolling radius (not width) being thrown out slightly. That or different makes front to rear which also confuses it somehow. Its quite a common problem, so dont worry we should be able to sort it

I'll have a look at mine later to see why you are having troubles, but when I did my brake pedal I do remember there wasnt an aweful lot of room. I remember the locknut was quite hard to get moving, in the end I had to clamp the rod with some rag and pliers and then do the lock nut. 2" does sound like a lot though, I'm not sure you will get that much adjustment out of it. Is the clutch on its last legs? Sounds like it could be worn.

All the best mate, hope you get it all back together, better than new

Can you get a pic of it? Sounds like its just a stub of the screw stuck in there? There are a few ways to remove it, will be easier to describe if we have pics. A stud extractor will work, or another basic method is to drill a hole in it, and bang a slighly larger hex key into it. When that jams you should be able to undo it with the allen key. Will likely kill the allen key but hey cheaper than Nissan! Another option is to use a dremel and cut a slit in the top then use a flat blade screw driver to undo it

Cheers bud. It looks good atm with PiP preview, just a shame it cant record. Even then its still going to be 2 avi files, but found you can merge them again in Premiere pretty easily. Getting it to record PiP will be a nightmare, think I will pass that pleasure to someone else! Another thing I thought of, is it might be an idea to start it up with no ini file, so it defaults on everything. That way it should allow you to select everything and save a new ini file. I dont think it will solve your cam not showing up issue, thats most likely a driver one, but worth a punt if you havent already tried it.

+1? 99% sure that it is. +2 - I thought that too as soon as I saw it. Some great photos Mark, esp the one in front of the hangar

VirtualVCR is very similar in how it works, so if that works then Capture! should work and vice versa. Good luck

What he said ^^^^ I think he managed it yesterday though as he asked via PM. Sorry was a bit slow on catching up with this thread

Do you have .Net 3.5 installed? Also try downloading a prog called VirtualVCR and see if that works. Theres so many things with this that might or might not work, it seems so pot luck! Bloody MS!

Trying to get the fecker to do Picture in Picture at the moment, but its just not playing fair! Got it to do it on preview but recording fails on the second stream Its seems to be a problem inherant in the original Capture and nothing I have added so bring on hours of debugging to chase it out

Sounded like it to me mate when I last heard it. Once the standard starts to sound like a Nismo, its on its way out. Only way to solve it is to get a Nismo mate

I assumed it was the handbrake

Is that at RAF Odiham? Didnt know there was a track around there, so assume its an airfield day. Wished I had known there was something going on, I would have popped down.

What wheels do you have on there? Usual causes are poorly balanced wheels (either the balance weights are off or if you have cheap wheels they might not be balanced), maybe not done up in the correct order (in the start shape progressively done) so might be tighter on one nutt than the others pulling it in a bit. Or maybe it needed a spiggott ring but it wasnt used. Also if new discs were fitted, the mating surface may not have been clean so the disc isnt sitting flat and thus the wheel isnt sitting flat. Best thing to do is to whip them off and put them back on, progressively doing the nutts up tighter in the star shape (do opposing nuts up working your way around, dont go around in a circle). See if that solves it, if not I would go back to the place that fitted them and ask them to look at it. That is of course if it didnt do it before they worked on it

Might be worth a bit of degreaser. So long as you dont mind possibly discolouring the original finish a bit. If its nice and clean, you should have no problems with it sticking.

Rob - just paid £21 for a driver and passenger ticket. Hope the club can put the extra 20p to good use

Correct! If its live all the time, you dont know when the IGN is on or not. I tapped up my HU for the IGN feed. Pretty much on all aftermarket HU they have an amp trigger wire which is usually a 12v feed which goes live then IGN is on. Thats the easiest way I find.

PM Rob (H5). Track time can be booked direct with the organisers which is the best option at the moment as we dont have dedicated track time. See above for the time the others are going for. Sure we can fit one more on the stand

Cars looking nice and shiney mate I fancied one of these when ESR were selling them, but too expensive for me. Always feel a bit odd as well having a Tommy K badge when the car isnt a Tommy K car. They do look damn cool though

Fraid not. Its not an instructional manual but a proper book, so no official download

No idea on the ciggy lighter, although knowing Nissan, it might be a permenant live with selective earth on IGN. Thats the way some of the lights work that I've found. Best to use a multimeter and have a prod about. With regard to the GPS reciever, the best place to stick it is under the strut bar plastic. As you look at the rear strut bar, there are 2 top bits of plastic either side of the strut bar siver bit. You can lift the left hand one up (just pops up) and you can stick it on top the the bar and under the plastic. Dead easy to run the wires down to the cubby from there too. So you have a nice hidden GPS reciever with good reception. Oh and take the top cover off the GPS puck if you can it will make reception better