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Chris`I

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Everything posted by Chris`I

  1. New a fully built chasis would see you about £250, but recently there were 2 as new Sprint 2s on ebay for under £100! Decent thing with drifting, is because of the low grip levels, you dont stress the motor much and with new bigger capacity batteries, you can see 1.5hrs out of 2x 4500Mah batteries
  2. cant wait to see the R/C Chris Sounds promising. Is the carpark generally nice flat tarmac with no stones? These things like a nice smooth surface.
  3. No issues here mate, it's all good fun... Says Mitz who is phoning around for a supplier of these things You know what, you could do a good trade in them! Plus theres loads of add ons and carbon bits! New thread started for it - viewtopic.php?f=13&t=24350
  4. Ask all you want about RC drifting in here. Will add info on my car and what cars/equipment are best shortly in this post. To wet your appetite OK, so not sure what info you want, but the best place to start is DRC Central and their n00bie FAQ- http://www.drccentral.com/forums/index. ... topic=4048 So basically, RC drifting is just like normal drifting just with RC cars! You can use pretty much any car you already have, but a few alterations need to be made, which are largely what you see when you see RC drift packages. Main thing to change is the tyres. Largely they use a hard compound to get all the wheels sliding. From there on, its the usual stuff you see in normal cars and the skys the limits, carbon chasis, better suspension, new motors, ARBs etc etc. You get the idea. There are a lot of manufacturers with a lof of kits out there. Some of the biggest and best players are: Yokomo: Yokomo almost singlehandedly made RC drifting mainstream. They made a drift specific chassis bare on their succesful MR-4TC. But their other chassis' still hold their own in drifting. The SD SSG is one of those other chassis' that is used extensivly throughout the scene (Eddie in the UK D1RC competition just to name one). Tamiya: The inventor of the RC as we know it today. Tamiya today offer great entry kits, but also a selection of VERY high quality full race spec kits. Like the TRF 415MSX. HPI: HPI.... The maker of the RS4 Pro series. And the latest incarnation, the Pro4. HPI has always had an preference for belt driven cars (altho the Pro4 is shaft). Altho people always argue which is best (belt or shaft driven), HPI's kits do the job they are supposed to do. Many hop-up parts are available for almost every chassis they make. So an entry-level Sprint sporting almost a full carbon setup is not impossible. Hot Bodies: A fairly new contender in the top class RC racing scene. Their Cyclone is a Pro4 derived belt driven race car. With many alu. and carbon bits as standard. Team Associated The maker of the TC-X series of chassis'. Used throughout the 1:10 scale touring car championships. The TA kits have own numerous A mains. And there's no doubt that they make very capable chassis'. Team Losi: Losi might not be such a popular brand. But their quality is very good. And their fully enclosed belt drive system on their XXX-S. Is imo a briliant idea. X-Ray X-Ray are based in Europe and have made high specification race chassis for some years, winning world championships on the way. They are a little expensive and parts can be difficult to find but the quality is high. All these companies off drift cars and kits. These kits come in various forms, from Ready to Run (RTR) to full kits where you need all the electronics and other gubbins. RTR comes with all the bits you need generally, but sometimes not so read the kit contents carfully. You will need The Car! Transmitter (stick or pistole type, is up to you). These usually include servo's and receivers. Electronic Speed Control (ESC) This allows you to change the speed of your motor... Quite useful if you ask me Batteries: NiCD, NiMH, LiPO ect.. Bottom line is. You wont get your car moving, unless it's got some juice. Charger: Even if you have batteries. You wont be able to use them, if you cant charge them. Paints, scissors, craft knife and some imagination for painting the shell and getting it looking tip top This is all covered in the DRC Central FAQ posted above (and ripped off from there!) So that should get you guys and idea of what is needed etc. Kits can cost from £100 or more. I wouldnt suggest getting a cheap Tamiya like the TTO1, but rather go for something a bit better like a Yokomo or a HPI Sprint 2 (which is what I have). They are much better built and better upgrade path. Model Sport ( http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ ) are my fav online supplier, but try out your local hobby shop if you have one Once you guys get comfortable with this we can start to talk about more complex stuff like if you should go brushless motor and use LiPo packs
  5. Yeah, should have mentioned that. Also get a ride out with someone if you can, they sound quite different when under load. Wales is always a good place to do this, but you are a bit more time limited!
  6. There arent really any performance gains to be had from any exhaust so just pick one you like the sound and look of and let the traders see who can do the best deal
  7. Feck! Not going to like this leg!
  8. Think we need to start a new thread for RC drifitng chaps, otherwise scottsoulby and Mitz are going to kill me for taking over their thread
  9. Nismo Feels weird at first because of the shape, but it nicely shortens the throw and has a good weight to it, and feels spot on when you get used to it and the OEM feels very strange afterwards!
  10. all show & no go Think Paul has NOS and Kev has turbos, so they certainly go
  11. Bout time mate! Looks good, so much better than having a red rectangle there!
  12. Ditto, not heard of this before. I know a few have removed them to fit new tweeters, maybe they will be along soon and tell you how to remove them and then you can put foam tape all over the place and hopefully stop it!
  13. You fake, watch out or Mark will disown you
  14. +1 Are you talking about the battery powered ones or the nitro ones? If its the nitro noisy ones ill dig mine out the garage and get it going again Battery. Nitro sucks for drifting, not enough throttle control I would say we should have a drifting comp, but its actually quite hard and not sure anyone would pic it up good enough in a day, not for Touge drift battles anway But we can have a bash with them
  15. How about all 50 odd from Wales I think a group shoot would be good, even if they are just in the background of some shots
  16. CS on here sells Scorpion, I'm sure he'll be along shortly. They are a good replacement for a stock exhaust if you are looking to replace with something with a similar sound Will cost about the same as the online price you have seen.
  17. Dont blame me if Rob and Me cant find the pub What time should we meet there? 8:30am?
  18. i remember that was soo funny +1 that cracked me up! What happens to that fancy door in an accident? When it gets crumpled and no longer works? At least with current doors they can force them open. Although that new door will be so flimsy you could cut it will scissors Looks cool though and no more banging doors at car parks!
  19. I had a Alfa Spyder 2.2 Diesel for a hire car and it was aweful to drive. Powerband was tiny but would prob be nice if it was remapped. Had a Leon Sport TDi on holdiday and loved it. Powerband seemed massive and I know they can be remapped for silly speeds. If I was just commuting every day and wanted just a quick car, I would have the Leon in a shot
  20. I wouldnt know, I dont know what they are looking for. I think all the cars mentioned should go for it though
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