Dicky

Well Nissan customer Services ran true to form and washed their hands of my problem on the basis I had not demonstrate brand loyalty in that I bought the car second hand from a private individual rather than a Nissan garage and secondly because my lock failure wasn’t the same as the original lock failures. Now I bought my 350 from a Nissan dealer and had it serviced for 12 yrs, my daughter 370 has been serviced by Nissan for 8 yrs. The original locks replaced on recall around 2013 were done because of to much grease applied to the mechanical parts of the lock while my fault appears to be an electro mechanical fault where by the lock isn’t feeding back positional information to BCM. Thin ice stuff to me! I have escalated the issue within Nissan CS on the basis that the lock appears no fo for purpose. I base this on the obviouse facts that lots of UK, European and USA cars have many many lock failures. There have been several locks with different part numbers issued by Nissan, the ones I’m aware of are, 48700-JF00B and C apparently these locks were replaced by lock 47800-JF00D these were back in 2013. Lock D was super ended by another iteration 48700-1NC2A sometime after 2013 and the new lock quoted for my car is 48700-1NC1B. Heaven only knows how many others I’ve missed out. In my opinion a steering lock should last the life of the car not 3 to 5 yrs (I read of another owner who having his lock replaced under recall had the new one fail 3 yrs later) for which Nissan took nonresponsibility. If anyone knows of other lock numbers please feed them back as it would strengthen not only my case but that of others yet to fail.

Thanks for your input. Ive been thinking over the last two lines and wondered if that doesn’t just apply to 2013 cars. The insurance company may take the view that since the car is a 2010 model, and supplied with the lock it should then be operational at all times?

Unfortunately the car was recovered direct to the dealers so didn’t get a chance to try this. I did stumble over a couple of YouTube videos showing this trick but as I said the car was already in the garage. I can see the benifit of getting the car running again but wouldn’t like to sell the car on with this fault still present, so guess I’ll just take the hit. I will however pull the fuse once the lock is fixed. I can update this thread now that I’ve got more info. Through my investigations I discovered that the car had the lock replaced under recall in April 2013 but not sure of its serial number just yet as the garage can’t see it until they remove it. Oh, and by the way the lock is on back order from Japan an may take 3wks or more to arrive. I suppose most of you recognise the emensity if this Nissan problem. Loads of Nissan cars in the states are experiencing the problem as well as owners are here in the UK and Europe. Even the Qashqai up here in Geordie land. I called Nissan Customer Services to lodge my complaint, received a reference number and am now awaiting a call from one of their case handelers. Not holding out much hope after reading of another 370 owner who had the lock fail and replaced free under recall and for it to fail again 3 yrs later. He contacted Nissan and was told this was fair ware and tear!! Surely a component like this should last the life of the car! If the same happens to me I’m going to insist on a copy of the design statistical data to see what the designers/suppliers believe a fail wear and tear period to be. For Nissan to just pluck a figure out of the air and call it fair just won’t cut it. They may as well say 1 yr is a fair wear perod. I did a bit of statistical study many years ago when a maintenance manager for a large company and recall MTTF and MTBF (meant time to fail and mean time between failures) calculations from which the probability of failure and time to failure can be calculated. If Nissan believe that 3 to 5 yrs is a fair wear tear period then they must be operating at the wrong end (beginning) of the well known “Bath Tub Curve” when you’d expect most failures to occur, before moving into the flat “Useful Life” portion of the curve. Apologies for the rant. I need a cup of tea now!!

Yep I’ve seen that one, but in the top right corner is says North America so I assume it doesn’t count in the UK?

Hi, can you expand on that a bit more for me please. i assume you bought your car new in 2009 so how long after did you get the steering lock work done. Was it under warranty at all and do you have any details that might help, typically the garage who did the work. I could call them to get more info on their reason for doin the work

No, apparently there haven’t been any recalls nor TSB in the UK or Europe only in the states. The service manager, whom I trust, checked the car history ref recalls and anything that may have needed doing has been attended to. But steering lock not mentioned. Defo a fuse pull job when it fixed. There doesn’t appear to be any suitable alternative to the garage cost. It would take a fair time to buy second hand items, if available and then you couldn’t be sure they would work separately or together and the labour cost would increase if they had to first install then remove again. Also the lock and or BCM have to be installed before the cars computers will allow the engine to be started. So pulling the fuse now doesn’t help. I’m just going to have to SUCK IT UP.......Buggar...any body need their lawns or hedges cut...cheap rates..ha ha

Just been on to the garage, looks like the lock is the fault and possible the BCM.The want to Fit the lock first then if it still isn’t right then fit a BCM modular. Cost for the Lock only £1583.76, if BCM required then total is extra £ 528.80. Hang on a mo I’m feeling a bit faint!! Anyone help with this ? ie cheaper locks or BCM ? If I have to pay full price then the Fuse pull mod is the first thing I’m going to do, sod any insurance worries

Thanks for the reply. I did come across the Will370z post and hoped the recall might still be available. I also read about the fuse removal which sounds like a plan but I suppose I’ll have to see what the dealership have to say tomorrow. The car went in late Friday so I doubt if much has been done yet. I was wondering if the fuse removal ould work now but I think it may not until the lock is sorted so that the BCM knows what state everything is in before it will let the car be started.

My daughters 2010 370 failed to start after filling up at a service station. The RAC guy traced the problem to a steering lock issue. He suggested that when she stopped the lock should have engaged but didn’t since he was able to turn the wheel. After lots a fuse checking, tapping things and other more technical tests he felt that the lock must have tried to engage but didn’t and so the controlling computer wouldn’t have got a signal back saying the steering wheel was locked and therefore through its dummy out the Pram. Car removed to main dealer and now awaiting big bill. “UNLESS SOMEONE KNOWS BETTER” ? Because I noticed in previous 2013 posts there was a Steering Lock issue which Nissan fixed for free. Anyone know if this is still available? Hope someone can shed more light on this issue for me!

Mine’s the same. Any update from Alex?

Many thanks to all for your help, I appreciate it.

Hi I want to contact Tarmac Sportz but can’t seem to find how to pm them. The old site had an alphabetic look up list but can’t seem to find anything like that nor anything using the search facility

My car is gunmetal same as yours and my code paint code is WV2. Went to one of these dealers who mix the paint up for you ( and for the local paint shops). I was sold three cans each with a different shade of gunmetal none of which matched the car colour. waste of time and money. What’s the point of providing a paint code on the car when there are so many different shade within that code. Don’t understand it, but there must be a logic somewhere

Anyone know if a tarmac discounts parts to forum members and if so what is the code. cheers.

Sounds to me like the accelerator pedal spring moving position when depressed. My daughters 370z makes the sound.

I must be the winner then, 14 yrs and 85k mls for me and at the risk of giving it the kiss of death, only one coil pack replaced. Best car I've ever owned and still enjoy driving it. Going to bury it in the back garden when it eventually expires. Couldn't do anything less!!

Beg ur pardon. Just noticed your header post states......FRONT !! Sorry getting old !

Is the set for front and rear?

Thanks to all. Mine needed a little TLC which I attempted to provide, but seemed to have killed it with kindness!

Looked on his Traders posting but didn't see anything, but then again there's 25 pages with loads of items on each so may have missed it. Will have to pm him.

Anyone got one of these to sell or knows where they can be sourced in the UK

Anyone got one of these to sell or know where I can buy one other than Motorsport which seem a bit on the expensive side.

Well, typical of me to go round the houses when trying to sort a problem rather than to go straight to the source. Having decided on Pirelli PZero's for the rear of my daughters car I found that Kwick Fit online were selling them for £194 with a load index value of 96. This started me off on a bit of a tangent to find out what this meant and was this index suitable for my daughters car. Well after much research ringing Kwick Fit, the local Nissan main dealer, Nissan Customer services, Nissans Nismo branch in Scotland and Pirelli themselves. No one had any idea if the 96 index was suitable nor did they know how to calculate if it would be OK. By the way Pirelli even suggested that the PZero has only been tested for the Jag XF suggesting that if you fit it they won't be responsible. I said that every tyre shop in the NE and I suspect the country are selling them to any car owner out there, their response , well that's up to them, giving the impression that should anything go wrong they will stand by our claim that it's only been tested for the Jag? Couldn't believe any of it. Anyway after all this grief all I needed to do was to look at my daughters car book to find out that 96 is their recommended rating. No wonder my school reports always said " must try harder"

Many thanks Ekona

Well thats what I would have thought but have done some reading which suggests it is important. Must admit I've never considered it in the past but since the tyres are for my daughters car I want to be sure. Ive read it can invalidate your insurance (let's face it they look for any reason not to pay out). The Load Index is apparently the maximum weight your tyre can withstand and could cause blow outs or tyre damage if you hit a pot hole or something. Apparently "each tyre must have a load capacity equal to or superior to half the weight borne by the axle on which its mounted". I found a table which shows that a 96 load index tyre can carry 610Kg and a 2017 370z spec which indicates a 55/45 weight distribution and a rear curb weight of 1515 Kg so I assume 45% of this gives 682Kg suggesting that a 96 load index tyre is not safe, or are you supposed to half this which makes it ok....my brain hurts!! Id appreciate some input from anyone in the tyre game or someone more knowledgable about this subject than I am