Dicky

Am I right in believing that the 370 ride is extremely hard with high levels of tyre noise or is my daughters car just typical. My 350 seems so much nicer to drive and although there is tyre noise it seems a lot less than her 370

Sorry I didn't. I forgot ! Im pretty sure my gaskets were in tact and I'm only changing them as a precaution. Unfortunately I had several things I wanted to speak to him about, including checking over the car condition before work began, ensuring the guy doing the work has done this job before and that care is taken to avoid damage, plus other issues I wanted addressed. If you look at the the pinned post near the top of this section there are pictures there or links posted by forum members.

Well that's it, mines gone in to Falcon performance today to have the gaskets replaced. Let's hope that's the end of it. By the way spoke to the guy there and asked for a ball park figure if the clutch needed replacing. Well apparently the fly wheel is "moocho" expensive on the 370 and if it needs changing along with the clutch it can be around a £3K job So no racing starts from now on. Ya hear!!

For those interested. Visited Falcon Performance today to get the oil gallery gaskets replaced. Spoke to a technical guy there, one of the owners, who explained that throttle valves do in fact continue to modulate the engine air intake while the valiable valve system opens the valves for the correct amount of time, dependant upon the engines needs. So they do don't just stay open the whole time and still do affect idle performance and will need cleaning now and then when problems arise. They may even improve performance a bit cos cleaning the TV on my 350 certainly feels as if it does. Hope this helps

What !! no forum members know the answer?......I'm taking the car in to Falcon Performance on Monday to have the oil gallery gaskets replaced, I will ask them.

At first I thought I had and is why I posted about Throttle body cleaning, but after giving it a bit of a run, getting it up to operating temperature it now looks ok. Your video set me off trying to understand the VVEL operation and it supprised me to learn hat the throttle valve stays open. If their both open the whole time what's the point of them? Is it back up issue or do they contribute to the engine tick over in some way?

I've isolated this question from another of my postings "Throttle Body Clean" and hope that's ok. A question for the forum Techno guys really. Does anyone know what function the throttle valves perform on a variable valve type engine, because I now understand they remain fully open the whole time and that the variable valve open timing controls the air intake to the cylinder. It would seem that cleaning them now would be pointless yet I've read other forum posts and watched YouTube vids suggest that cleaning them improves tickover and performances??

Thought I would post this just to complete my findings. Apparently the 370 valuable valve engines don't actually use the Throttle valve to control air intake to the cyclinder (as Richf pointed out in my recent post about Cruise a Controls) this is achieved by varying the intake valve open/close timing...see link. http://www.nissan-global.com/EN/DOCUMENT/PDF/IREVENT/PRESEN/2007/070713VVEL-e.pdf Apparently the throttle valve remains fully open when the engine is running so it would seem there's no need to clean them. They're only used as a back up, or so I understand. UNLESS SOMEONE KNOWS MORE?

Thanks guys for your input. Bought my daughter a 2010 which has throwen up lots of little questions/problems, this forum is a great help

Thanks for the reply. Your probably right because I can't see any info to suggest it has. The main reason I thought it might are the small shines oblong shapes that run down the side of the headlight units. I had thought they might be led but they may only be indentations.

Can someone tell me if a 2010, 370 has DRL's please. Can't find any sensible info in the nico club workshop manual nor the quick ref guide.

Just been advised that the pedal, having been depressed, is returned back to its start position by the hydraulic pressure in the system. That sounds right to me but can anyone confirm?

Yes I did read your post Ricky but I couldn't quite understand the mod. I'm going to remove the pedal assembly so I can understand better how it works then read your post again which will better help me to understand.

Just been reading a post by Justin666 on the above subject. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86482-clutch-helper-spring-replacement/. I'm interested in doing this but was wondering if anyone whose removed the spring completely can tell me how the pedal returns back to the start position when released without the spring to help it ?? Wouldn't you get cruise control problems from the clutch cc switch not being operated ?

I agree! If these rubber blocks are only available as transit pieces on new cars then presumable they're not available to the public so they can't accuse you of fitting them. As if ! If you have had your car serviced at the same garage then even more reason they should have spotted them. THESE BLOCKS COULD HAVE COST YOU MORE THAN AN UNCOMFORTABLE RIDE!!

Thanks again young man I will peruse over my 11am coffee, retirement is soooooooo nice Edit.....problem is you have to be OLD!

Many thanks Alex I'd never have thought they would provide this info for fear of the cost involved for the manufacturer to correct these problems. I've read a bit lately about the 370 and as far as I can tell many seem to suffer common problems, oil gallery gaskets, boot lid not opening first time, clutch pedel noise, clutch judder (csc related I believe), steering lock problem, are just a few I've discovered. I doubt if any of these are covered under recalls.....but I will certainly ask! Edit I'd be interested to know how the yanks can get hold of published lists while we poor Brits can't

Anyone know if these are available anywhere for European cars. I assume those released for USA cars will not apply.

Yes you can here it going on and off with the accelerator and finding it will be a pain. If you could get hold of a "Mechanics Engine Diagnostic Stethoscope" you could have a mate hold it in the gear lever area, then somewhere on the bulkhead and behind the seats to help locate it. A rolling road would be useful to check around the engine bay area. I had thought to get the back of the car up onto axel stands, put the car in gear to drive the wheels then go around listening, but on reflection that would be a bit dangerous, best to pay for a rolling road diagnostic. Good luck

Sorry to here that, sounds expensive! Any idea what caused it?

Yep I've got the car booked in for Monday to have the oil gallery gadgets upgraded. £668 all in, inc vat

Getting my 370 HR done this Monday at Falcon Performance for £668 all in (inc VAT)... Thought about doing it myself but decided against, due to lack of suitable facilities, not knowing what could go wrong (let's face it we all start off believing it's going to be easy) and if you get something wrong you've got to strip it all down again, plus you've got no warranty Thought of fitting a pressure gauge and monitoring it, but you can bet on the day you decide to give the car a go you won't be monitoring and if the downside is a new engine + fitting your looking a big bucks. The root cause is the gaskets and for peace of mind it's worth getting it done. It's also a selling point when that day arrives

BUGGAR Alex, if I wasn't worried before I am now! Thanks for the warning though. Do you know if the Consult lll gear held by the dealers can determine accurately if the throttle valve motors and feedback position sensors are in full working order ? If so I'll put it in to have them checked. The problem is the diagnostic gear is only as good as the tech using it!

Found it. It's derived from the ABS Actuator & Control Unit and sent to the Combination Meter and ECU.

Got a cruise control issue Alex, mentioned in another post. On the straight at 30 mph, no issues. Going down hill at 30 mph in 3rd or 4th again no issues. BUT when coming out of the down hill and straight into a hill the car slows up and you can see the speedo drop from 30 to about 25 and only then does it seem to wake up and apply power to get back up to 30. Looking at the workshop manual either the road speed signal to the system (derived from the ABS system) is sluggish for some reason, or the ECU is sluggish (unlikely) or the ECU is sending an increase speed request to the throttle body motor and if it's sluggish it could be the cause. Not sure though but thought it's a good easy staring point. Not sure if the ECU uses only one throttle body controller in cruise control mode or both to maintain requested speed.?