Dicky

Didn't really want to know anyway!

I was made redundant several times during my working life each one was a blow to the old self esteem and a pain leaving the people I'd grow to like. On my first occasion I parked the car up and walked everywhere to save money, even cancelled papers and milk, a total over reaction. Jobs were hard to come by then as well. Anyway looking back I always managed to get another job and banked the redundo cash. Chin up, you'll get fixed up and have another Z soon, just keep on pushing. Good luck

Well you live and learn. I really should get around to reading that manual of mine. I've had it 10 yrs and didn't know they were speed sensitive. On the other hand you could keep posting you discoveries and save me the effort ha ha cos I'd much rather read the forum

Cars these days look enough like Christmas trees already. Why would u even contemplate making such a cool looking car look as if it belonged on a fairground ride. I know we don't own 911's but can you imaging how ridiculous that would look on the road, DONT DO IT. Remember less is more when it comes to cool cars!

Now mattbowey that is pleasing to the eye (mine anyway). I'm afraid I'm swimming against the tide here but I think Keser has ruined his car, it looks just awful to me. Looks like a lot of hard work and effort had gone into it and if he likes it that's all that matters but I'll be not for me Sorry

Same happened to me and I couldn't reprogram mine either. Took it to Vic Young in the end and they sorted it. Can't remember much detail of the event but had to pay a few quid for their help.

Hello, what condition is the plastic piece in that surrounds the gear stick. Any damage at all and if available what do you want for it.

I've still got my 350, so is the 370 really that much better a drive. I have to admit I still like the looks of the 350 better but would change if the drive is improved and have to admit the 370 interior is much better

Come on now Ed's the only interesting bit of the show. His fat mate Mike is a waste of space and seeing as how it's his programme poor old Ed has to play the stooge.

Wasn't aware of that, will check it out when I bet back off hol. Oh by the way it's 23deg here in Tenerife and sunny ever day, but you don't want to hear that I'm sure cos of all tha rain back home. Please accept my apologies and don't get jealous now ha ha ha. Anyway having had it serviced for 10yrs now guess I'll just keep going. Only had one issue with them in that time when they spilt brake fluid on the bonnet. Didn't notice it straight away but when I returned it there was no fuss at all. No blame throwing like a Benfield they just booked in in a respray end the bonnet.

Saw Ed China (Wheeler Dealers) use some kind of smoke m/c or smoke bomb to detect the same prob. He placed the smoke thingy inside the car and closed the doors.The smoke could be seen escaping where the leak was on the door seal. I was quite impressed (little thing please little minds I hear you say)

Don't go to Benfield on Portland Road. Had a lot of trouble with them when Infirst got the car. There lying ba----ds. They damaged my car during servicing and denied it was them .Like most everyone else I know ever scratch on my car and a big chunk missing out of the wing mirror certainly wasn't there when I took it in. They tried to fob me off when my car developed the tyre feathering problem after I first got it. Thankfully someone on here posted a copy of the tech builtin issued at the time which forced their hand. After other such incidents I had a meeting with the acting service manager and told them I would rubbish their name whenever I got the chance. I go to Vic Young in Shields. A bit out the way from Newcastle but very trustworthy.

I wouldn't think so cos copper isn't very strong. If it were for this purpose I'd expect it to be much stronger material (don't know though). Generally braided copper is used for grounding purposes but why you would ground the exhaust like this seems daft. If it does need grounding for static build up reasons I'd expect the braid to be strapped across each exhaust joint as it's finally grounded at the engine manifold.

No it can't be a Stopper Tire, it's obviously a ........ THINGY,

I found a world of difference after this mod. The car didn't go any faster but it certainly smoothed everything out. I couldn't point to any particular thing other than the smoothness. Well worth it. The kit's easy to make providing you have access to a crimp tool to attach the ends to the cables

I agree oil starvation has to be the most likely cause whether it be due to low levels or not changing the filter often enough and possibly getting oil starvation in places. I've mentioned this one in a post somewhere else....and don't laugh now .....but I believe there's a chance it could be down to that bloody dip stick. I've checked my oil on a couple of occasions in the past and got a ok reading. But good job I'm boarding on obsessive compulsive cos checking it again and agin highlighted I had got it wrong. When I push the dip stick in I get oil smears that can be mistaken for the oil level if not looked at closley. Ok you can lol now but in the hands of a novice the dip stick can be a dangerous tool ha ha

I can never trust that bloody dip stick. Apart from its stupid shape I find it necessary to check lots of times before I'm confident I know where the true level is. It seems to pick up oil as you push it in which smears the surface and can look like where the level is. Cleaning it off and repeating usually gives me a different result. That's why I do it half a dozen times or so to be sure. Really sorry for your predicament. Isn't it bloody typical how these things happen just out of warranty! I would still push the dealer hard to contribute towards repair/replacement after such a short time of ownership. If they sold it to you with sufficient oil in it there's little chance it would have burnt off under normal usage in such a few weeks.

I would love to achieve a look like the red and silver ones but...........it's the number plate that ruins the look for me, where would you place it?

As Alex suggests check obvious problem areas first eg operating switches, wires hanging off, blown fuse etc If none of these then sounds like you've lost the 12v supply to it . Confirm by using a multimeter, set to dc volts, and clip the leads to the motor connections. Operate the window, you should read 12v. If not it's fuse checking time, locate and test with multimeter. If fuse ok then it's wiring diagram time. Using the car body metalwork as neutral or earth test the live connection from origin at points on its journey to the motor you should read 12v at each test point when the window switch is operated.Probably best to go to a half way point first so if you get 12v you've halved your work. If it was working before the body shop visit take the matter up with them.

+1

Will defo look into this signs business a little further. Sent off the "Notice of Impending Prosecution" today along with the most sickofantic begging letter I could write. I think I got all the favourites in, typically, Xmas spirit, I'm a pensioner, the wife doesn't luv me, how dashing they look in their uniforms and the killer...... I support policemans balls whenever I can ( not sure that one works to well though!) If they don't shed an understanding tear I'm sure they'll throw up when they read it. At least in some small way I''ll be getting my own back if that happens ha ha

Just pulling out from a long slip road onto the motorway, cars in front and behind when I noticed a gap in the traffic so accelerated through the slow and middle lanes into the fast lane. Had been concentrating on the cars ahead and behind me on the slip road and those I was about to merge with so wasn't looking out for cameras. Just got into the lane when out the corner of my eye I saw the camera van tucked up on the verge and then noticed the 50 mph sign. Got done for doing 58 mph! I've ran the road again since, only to realise I had missed two disc shaped 50 mph signs on the slip road. I suppose I should have seen them but when your watching out for traffic you can miss them. Bugger (squared) no (cubed)!

An easy way to check your altinator without using multimeters is to start thr car then turn on all electricals, headlights, heater, etc. Let the car tick over and note the brightness of your headlights ( best checked in the dark for obvious reasons). Then rev up the engine and you should see the brightness of your headlights come up a little. If you measured the voltage across your battery tou should see it rise from around 12v to around 14v or so but you should see an increase. If that's all ok then you may have something connected that isn't turned off when you remove your key from the ignition. Typically clocks and computer items will be maintained with a voltage supply but because they take so little from the battery it would take weeks to run your battery down. I would imagine (but not sure) that these items would take 1/10 th's of amps to operate if that. If you can get access to a multimeter with suitable DC amps range you can turn off the ignition then disconnect one of your battery leads and connect the meter in series with it. This would show you how much current is being drawn from the battery when the car is parked up. If you have say 60 amper hour battery fitted then when fully charged it will deliver 60A for 1hr or 30 A for 2hrs and so on, so you can get an idea of how long it would take to flatten your battery with what ever current is being drawn when ignition is off.

It's only slight. I just turn the radio up cos I can't hold onto the gear knob it's freezing cold having fitted one of those eBay round aluminium knobs.

Just tell us how old you are Dicky and then we will decide whether to forgive you or send you to Specsavers..!!! ;) I usually tell people I'm only 39 but just between you and me I'm really' Aheeem 66 so you can excuse me a bit PS....can I come out of hiding yet ???