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ben@RARE RIMS

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Everything posted by ben@RARE RIMS

  1. Archenemy are tops chaps, they're who we always recommend, and your results speak for them selves Looks great! If you were on the SXOC you'd be told you needed spacers now
  2. Needing 19s to clear brakes? That's a bit odd, we have 17s that easily clear them. Must be heavyweight wheels or a funny design to have that issue, 350Z brakes are generally not an issue with wheels, like Evos and Sport Clios where they have funny size disc / caliper combinations.
  3. You shouldn't have any clearance issues at all with anything low offset and 19" for 350Z Brembos, they're generally not an issue for most wheels. It's cars with tiny discs and bit calipers, or the crazy wide Brembos on Evos that tend to be an issue
  4. After talking to you on the phone I reckon you need to convince yourself of the merits of 18x12s for the rear
  5. I just thought I'd add to this Powder coating is fine in and of itself. It's the heat involved. Some places use high levels of heat, and heating an alloy ages it. Generally it makes them stiffer and less flexible. This is bad for wheels as if they cant flex a little under load the will crack at the hardest points, usually where the spokes join to the outer rim. Another example is filing cabinets believe it or not. They get away with a thinner steel by heating and powder coating it, to make it stiff enough and strong enough for purpose, making them nice and cheap Ultimately a lightweight wheel has heat treating in the manufacturing process, and comes out of the factory light and stiff. If you them significantly heat them again for powder coating you effect the previous process, and then you see these wheel failures. We tend to suggest getting wheels painted is the way forwards, as this heating is not required. Interestingly for these reasons on racing / track / drift cars when they get their new forged wheels it says in the manual from the manufacturer they need to be replaced every 2 years, they're a service item, which is why so many are sold from Japan, they are used for this period then replaced. They are then bought by people here, and a significant number of them have cracks that need welding.
  6. Make sure you get a full complement of spare bulbs, hi-vis vest and warning triangles etc, and be careful of using radar detectors Sounds like an epic trip We love driving on the continent, there generally seems a better standard of driver on the major roads and it's always a pleasure
  7. This sounds like an excellent result for you Sounds like whoever was in charge that day needs some re-training. At main dealer rates the only option is to offer the BEST possibly service, the customer has to always be right. The moment they decide because they're expensive they're better than the customer, it all goes to pot
  8. Erm... would this thread be more at home on the wheels section of the forum, as I am pretty such that speadsheet is unrelated to me If you have wheels on the car that you know the sizes of, just get busy with the tape measure, you'll soon have it sussed
  9. Only just spotted this! ET+20 is a good offset, 9" or 8.5" front and 10" rear
  10. Anybody based in the Southwest fancy heading our way for a wheel trying on session, and a healthy discount as a thank you? Would really like to test out the current range on one Cheers for any helps! Ben
  11. We can help We have the 19x9 and 19x10 Flat black with a red lip in stock
  12. DO NOT powder coat your wheels Paint them if you fancy a change, powder coating can make them fail if done too hot We also can help out with wheels if Z1 haven't already got you sorted
  13. Thanks for the kind words Dan Glad we could help out, happy to support excellent clubs like this one where possible! Special orders for a few members will be arriving shortly!
  14. We can indeed collect, looking at £35ish. If anybody sending wheels our way can wrap them in a box so they cant move around, ideally with a bunch of card bent over the lips where they touch the sides of the box, then a good wrapping it tape or similar, that would be ideal. They're usually fine, but sometimes they get knocked about and the finish suffers a bit Ben
  15. As per PM, I could swap them for £200 including all postage and collecting costs... If however yours are new and all perfect, and arrive back without being wounded by a courier, I might be able to give you a bit more money off to be fair, it's just to cover any damage / marks
  16. Gunmetal is now in stock by the way also gunmetal with lip
  17. The solution thats easiest - We will px your wheels back for some gunmetal ones. It will be similar money as having them powdercoated, and will be fully warranted, and factory finish.
  18. Chris I speaks the truth. It's the excessive heat, it ages the alloy hugely and causes failures on wheels that would never normally fail. S2000 standard wheels have been failing as a result of powder coating, and they never normally fail. Somewhere that knows what they're doing will probably be fine, but as a distributor because of the risks involved, we just cant suggest it being a cunning plan. It's entirely possible to get a good finish in paint
  19. More info on here: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f91/pow ... ndex3.html
  20. Interesting that I have just seen this post. I have been reading up a little on powdercoating alloy wheels, as a friend with some standard EVO wheels had them powdercoated, and had cracked spokes within 2 weeks. Obviously if its done at the correct temperature it will be fine, but go to high with the temperature and you can have problems No wheel manufacture or for that matter car manufacturer will warranty wheels if they have been powdercoated by an aftermarket powdercoater, and that includes Rota. I personally DO NOT recommend you powder coat any wheels
  21. Thank you very much for your kind words Mike. I am glad you like them, really do look to be the perfect fit
  22. Well hello there! Thanks for the R34GTR CAS you arranged for me on the GTR board I am fairly new here too, and they are a good bunch!
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