dave_7

This is absolutely incredible Do you have any more info on your brake cooling set up? And did the titanium shims make much to difference? Also are you running the stock nismo rear arb along with the hotchkis front bar?

A few shots from last weekend at Anglesey. Awesome day and stayed dry all day. Only 30 cars allowed booked on due to currently local restrictions which meant loads of track time and only 1 red flag all day!! Also my undertray decided to commit suicide on the way there, so it was cable ties and duct tape to the rescue. Its only the access panel that cover access to the upper fixings (its a different layout to the other 370z undertrays) so I will just remove it for now but will be looking for an aftermarket aluminium one as the plastic one is crap. Unfortunately Z-speed are the only manufacturers who do one for a mk1 Nismo and the price is extortionate. I heard rumours that Z1 have on in the pipeline as they already do one for the mk2 so i may hold out for that. Failing that i will have to CAD on up and get it laser cut myself. https://www.z1motorsports.com/undershroud/speed-performance/speed-370z-performance-aluminum-undershroud-09-14-nismo-p-11891.html

That looks so much better! you can see just looking that they sit a fair bit lower than the stock seats. Plus the weight saving from taking those heavy stock seats along with electric motors is a bonus!

Looks like our end goals are very similar. Its a real shame they've discontinued the AD08R, as their predecessor - the AD08RS sounds a bit poo from what I have been hearing about them 100% agreed about the seat, i run a CG lock which is a big help but no substitute for a proper fixed back bucket seat. For me one of the main issues is going to be getting an aftermarket sear to sit lower than stock. I'm 6ft 5 so my helmet rubs on the roof liner. I'm not fussed about having rails so will probably mount directly to the floor pan as long as I can find somewhere to fab me up a sub frame. I have also looked into DIY brake cooling ducts, piping from cutouts in an aluminium under tray. Never got anywhere with it though. Car needs them though the dust boots in my calipers are toast and even after a cool down lap my brakes can still be billowing when i come back into the paddock

Well now i want one even more!! It does sound like a big improvement and you aren't the only person to say so. What other suspension/handling changes have you made if you don't mind me asking? It's always good to hear from someone with similar end goals who is further down the line The wish list for this car is never ending. I had better try and save some pennies over the winter

Its on my wish list but like you said not a cheap bit of kit by a long shot, do think it would make a difference though. The stock vlsd is not horrendous by any means but at the same time isn't great either. I feel it will become a must for me further down the line. Which diff did you go for? Does it live up-to the hype?

Also additional fuel pump was a huge success, managed to run down to use over a quarter of a tank with zero issues! I am confident you could run it even lower if you wanted too. Make a big difference not only shedding a bit of weight but not having to top the fuel off after every other session. Really pleased with the outcome with it would 100% recommend for anyone else with the fuel starve issues!

Cheers for the heads up on this. Luckily, after much digging, looks like I may have them the right way round. Like we said earlier I am gonna manually measure the old bushing and compare to the new next time I am under the car. Then also change the diff oil and if there is any sign of metal shavings in it i know something is not right. I am fairly confident its is right going off all the digging I've done on the US forum but you can never be too sure! http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/100343-rear-diff-bushing-top.html Oh yes it has made a huge difference. Another thing that was noticeably better at Anglesey yesterday is when the car does oversteer and step out the feedback from modulating the throttle is bring it back into line is so much crisper. Real confidence inspiring stuff! At one point i even managed to catch a slide going down the corkscrew there, I will have to dig out the footage

update part 2 is basically the fitment of: white diff bushing kit z1 rear subframe collars bell raceworks diff brace as expected, the diff bushing in the subframe was a bish to get out. 50mm hole saw, 8mm drill, recipricating saw and a big hammer. Took just over an hour for it to surrender. fitting the new bushing was a 5 minute job on the other hand. I lobbed them all in the freezer the nigh before so they all flew in. The diff brace was not as simple as its made out to be. I got it to line up just about but that's with the diff in loosely and all shafts disconnected, if you where to just over this up to your diff with everything bolted up you'd have some trouble I'd imagine. Also there is a nut with locating boss welded to it that is the top mounting point (not seen in the picture), which needs to be fitted from the inside face of the subframe which was a bit fiddly even which the entire rear end disassembled. Still very doable though. last up was the subframe collars, once everything is off the car these slip in nicely. Now obviously i can't comment on the difference all these things have made individually, but as as collective I am absolutely blown away by the difference they have made. I wasn't expecting to feel that much of a benefit on the road but the difference is staggering. Its a very difficult thing to describe but basically feels like you're right foot has a much more direct connection with the back end. You can pile the power on much sooner and at a quicker rate because the way its delivered is much smooth so unsettles the car less. Its also stopped the intrusive TC system kicking in at every opportunity because the diff isn't waggling round like a turd in a bucket. Honestly wasn't expecting the difference to be be this good but this has left me pleasantly surprised! A proper hardcore diff needs to get added to my wishlist now!

2 part update today from a load of work i did last week. Part 1 is the home brew fuel starve kit to overcome the fuel starve issue on track, car currently starves on long right handers even with 3/4 of a tank and constantly refuelling through the day gets old quickly. Credit to @nissanman312 for pointing me in the right direction with this one and being on hand to answer my questions as obviously anything fuel related is more daunting that the usually job! Basically uses a low pressure protec fuel pump mounted at the bottom of the passenger side portion of the fuel tank to pump fuel from that side, over the hump into the tank and into the stock fuel bucket in the drivers side where the stock fuel pump is. Fuel pump is mounted to the structure inside the tank using cable ties with the filter as close to the bottoms as possible. Obviously doing this on as emptier tank as possible is a must. Submersible fuel hose is routed from the Protec pump outlet over the hump in the tank and into the top of the opening in the top of the stock fuel bucket, again held in position with cable ties. Bulkhead rated for use with fuel added to the top of the fuel sender unit cable routed through the access panel via a rubber grommet i added a plug at this point so i could split the loom without issue, if i ever need to take the sender unit out again and for now Ive routed some 4 core armoured cable into the the armrest and wired to a 12v plug so the plan is plug the pump in whilst on track days and i can unplug it on the road so as not to run the pump dry. when you plug it in with the engine off you can hear the pump whirring away in there so i know it work. the setup is basically what Z1 offer in their fuel starve kit without the hydromat and without splicing the power for the pump into the stock fuel pump loom (meaning its on at all times). I am on track day Sunday at Anglesey which will be ultimately be where i find out if this was worth all the trouble!

massive improvement, looks great!

New wheels you say? Exciting times mate. I can't wait to see whats next!!

Don't wory, the vibratechnics gearbox mount is high on the to do list. Bank balance currently is on life support after the kicking its taken over longdown! These cars are real wallet laxatives!

quick update from the weekend. Took the garage i booked the car in at over 2 hours to remove the chocolate Eibach nuts, they are now destroyed but at least they are off! Raised the issue with Eibach and they literally couldn't give a monkeys! I wont be spending anymore money there thats for sure. Either way it meant I could fit the fresh discs and pads ready for Anglesey in a couple of weeks. Spacer are back on now with some proper steel nuts this time. Also checked my catch cans. They are certainly doing they're job and have stopped a considerable amount of sludge going anyway near the maf's or throttle bodies. Definitely worth while for anyone who wants to drive one of these cars hard. Went for a good 4 hour blast out round Wales yesterday as well (should have taken some pictures). Fuel tank is now suitably empty so i can attempt to fit the additional fuel pump over the weekend along with diff bushing, diff brace, subframe collars and engine mounts (a lot to do in a day but I'll see how i get on).

I was out in Wales again yesterday afternoon after finally getting the car back together. Some great driving roads with great views!

Give this a try, polish then seal. Its really good stuff https://www.britemax-direct.co.uk/products/britemax-easy-cut-final-shine-metal-twins-polish-cleaner-kit

In other news, additional fuel pump is here courtesy of @nissanman312, so i big thanks to him for sorting this out! Just need a few more bits and that will be ready for fitting and testing. All parts are from Protec, so should be no issues with quality. Short term plan for testing, I think I am just going to wire it to a 12v plug, route it to inside the armrest console and simply plug it in when at the track, before hard wiring it in with a switch further down the line.

Thanks buddy. Unfortunately the spacers are going to have to get cut off. I split a nut in half on Saturday by drilling down both sides, so essentially the nut was in 2 halves and it was still welded to the stud! The nuts are made from aluminium (and very soft aluminium at that, i managed to round one off with 1 hand!), which in hindsight is absolutely shocking from Eibach. Really not something you expect from a company with a reputation like that. There was plenty of copper grease on them and they were torqued upto the factory lug nut spec. They have just galled so badly from heat cycling! They were only fitted in January as well. I will probably complain to Eibach once its all sorted as these thing obliviously aren't cheap. When searching online for this issue, Eibach spacers are the only ones that come up, no other brand seems to have this problem. Either way @Adrian@TORQEN is sorting me out with some new wheel studs which should arrive today, as well a host of other new parts. Great service from them to pull me out the sh*t so quickly. I will post some pictures of the butchered spacers up for everyone's amusement when they're finally off.

Oh dear, i had best set a side of full day for doing mine. Great tip on putting the new bush in the freezer!

Car is looking spot on mate! Thanks again for dropping the fuel pump and parts off Saturday mate. Really appreciate it. I am considering the rear subframe collars as well whilst I'm under there sorting the diff bushing out. Would you recommend them and was it an easy enough job?

Oulton park on Friday as awesome! Met some decent 350Z lads there as well. Front discs and pads are shaggged now so went to change them at the weekend and the nuts on my front wheel spacers appear to be very very stuck, I am assuming the heat the brakes send through the entire hub assembly.... going to go at it with a blow torch and 750mm breaker bar later. The nuts that came with the Eibach spacers don't appear to be the best. Does anyone one of an upgraded version I can buy with the correct taper to seat in the spacer recess?

Yeah the reviews on these all look really promising, especially the tyrereviews.co.uk one on youtube. The supersport R also looks like good competition for Cup2s! Yeah i agree with you there stiff side wall all day for track work. Or any hard driving fr that matter. How do they cope with higher temperatures? Would also be interesting to know if they heat cycle out quickly like most road tyres but i guess the the jury is still out on that one.

Quick catch up from some of the first things i did to the car after the first track First was to address the noise or lack thereof from the stock Nismo exhaust, very disappointing. I opted for a Cobra cat back at the cheaper end of the market as it suited my needs at the time. Have to say i was very pleased with it, sounded great - not too droney but still loud enough to suit my taste. I daily drove the car that this point and apart from the loud cold starts I fond it perfectly liveable. The large 5" rolled tipslooked great at the back end of the Nismo as well. Only downside i could say was that despite it being a full stainless steel system the bracket supplied are not and corrode quite badly. Not a big deal but definetely something to consider. Would 100% for someone not looking to spend a small fortune. I also think paired with HFC's it would have been next leavel noisy. The Cobra was later replaced by an Arc grip i picked up further long the way and paired with some Berk HFCs and the Cobra was sold. Shortly after the exhaust i also picked up a Mishimoto 19 row oil cooler kit with thermostatic sandwich plate. For track work this is an absolute must. back then I wasn't pushing anywhere near as hard as i do now and the oil temps were still a big issues even on colder days. I can now saftely say that i have tested this to death on track and is more than up to the task. I went from quiet quickly getting the temp upto 130+ degrees in a short 10 minute session, to very rarely getting it over the 110/115 degree mark on a 20 minute session. Temperatures are much more stable. For anyone interested i run Fuch Titan racepro S oil. Still being a daily at the time however during the winter the oil temps took too long to reach normal running temps despite the sandwich plate. The sandwich plate is always partially open, even when "closed" to prevent the thermal shock of the cold oil suddenly rushing into the warm engine. This combined with the tiny oil cooler that Nissan added to the later model cars meant i was over cooling slightly. My solution to to make a couple of stainless steel covers small enough to fit though the bumper opening to block the airflow through the cooler which works and absolute treat. So now i can cover the cooler to reduce its efficiency on cold days and have it open on warmer days and track days. Covers are painted black so you can't even see them. Cooler looks great paired with the braided stainless steel lines peaking through the bumper. A subtle mod that only people who know about this stuff will notice but will instantly know the car is used to its full capacity

If they are comparable to a 100 threadwear tyre like the R888R's then that is super impressive. Certainly isn't true for the Michelins which from my experience are amazing on the road but have too softer side wall for track, so much so that edges start to delaminate

Just read this whole thread from start to finish... absolutely awesome build