Apex

Are these still available?

Bump

Set of 4 Samco Blue Silicone radiator hoses in never fitted, as new condition. Turns out sometime ago I managed to buy the wrong set for my Z. Please note these will only fit MY 2007 onward. I'm looking for £85 including postage. Payment to be made via PayPal (buyer pays transaction fees), bank transfer or cash on collection. Collection can be organised between Swansea and Bristol, I make the journey at least 3 times a week.

Have a look at the attached pic

Adding any Mishimoto parts?

PM Sent

Is collection an option? If so where are you based?

PM'd

Please explain how they can't fall off

Thanks or the replies, already running a Samco intake pipe. Been toying with the idea of some induction work over the winter but not turning up much good reading material as of yet to what works and what doesn't and what's possible before needing cams and valves etc.

What's the difference with the outside diameter of the TB over the stock one? Will stock induction piping fit or are adaptors needed?

Most modern MAF's do operate on a "hot blade" principal and the air passing over the blade is converted into a volumetric factor and very an intake air temperature reading. What I am commonly seeing on the latest Euro 5 and Euro 6 diesel engines is that the readings of air flow seem to remain "accurate" for a more than reasonable amount of time ie. 3 years plus (this is on machinery running in excess of 2500 hrs a year, but I am regularly seeing huge discrepancies in intake air temperature readings, often 20 degrees out of calibration. During the Bosch training courses I attended for these engines we were explicitly told to never attempt to clean a MAF using brake cleaner or any other solvent based solution, these leave a coating on the blade once evaporated and as the blade heats up during operation it causes the blade to burn rendering its readings inaccurate. Another factor that can cause issues with them is water vapor in large quantities contacting the blade during normal operation. I've seen 3 instances of our machinery being pressure washed whilst the engine was running and water soaking the air filter causing it to tear and water passing over the MAF rendering it useless. These hot blade MAF's are not without their problems but they are far more accurate than previous types used. I'm starting to see more diesel engines now without MAF's and manufactures opting to use MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors and a separate intake air temp sensor in the induction trunking instead. The easiest way to check the calibration would be using a decent diagnostic system and checking the air temp readings against ambient air temp. Check the air flow rate usually displayed in Ltr / hr or Ltr / min and then calculating against the engine speed

What is the Siemens VDO number on the back of the key?

Either very low amperage in the battery, loose battery terminal or starter motor wiring connections, most likely a duff battery due to the fact it starts ok on jump leads. One thing batteries don't like is being left to sit with no use. If you have access to a battery charger remove the battery and put it on a slow / trickle charge and try again.

This ^^^^^^^ Had the same issue with my Kenwood

Potenza RE050 front and rear. About £140 a corner I think, not sure as they were payment for a job.

Done You are going to have to go some to beat that Clio though

Order placed and payment sent

Glad to hear it worked out :thumbs Do you have a link to the reprogramming guide?

What was the outcome of this Ian?

Sounds like a dodgy syncromesh which will lessen when the gearbox warms up, without actually driving the car I can't say for sure but it's a potentially big cost if it does require a gearbox overhaul.

Ordered my lamps today

Just done a bit of research and this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Nissan-Micra-Note-Primera-X-Trail-2-Button-Remote-Alarm-Key-Fob-Tested/151948038032?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211130857%26meid%3D84bee2342d7f4a3b88860a423c897936%26pid%3D100068%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172048588201%26clkid%3D2694843464881234621&_qi=RTM2063744 has the same Siemens VDO part number and operating frequency as my Z'd keys. You'd just need to swap the blade and get some one to program it to the cars ECU

It's a reasonable assumption that both keys would have the same internals, it would keep manufacturing costs down. Maybe ring a Nissan dealer and get a price and part number for a 350Z key, then ring another and get a price and part number for a Micra key? Or maybe try an onsite service like this http://carkeypeople.co.uk/services/car-key-cutting/ At the very least it's worth a few phone calls to get some idea of price.