Shinjuku

Im 32, have the roadster (group 47 rather than 45), 5 years ncd, live in London, only social use: £625 for the year.

I dont run them at the moment. That means you jack each wheel and torque up after the end of the first session right neil. How do you find that. That alternative is that I take them off when I put the track wheels on.

So is that an ok from you ekona? You wouldd check wheel nuts throughout a day is all im thinking and thats a pain to do with spacers if you need to take the wheels off

Strap it under the belt and youre all good mate!

Do they mix ok. If you need to check the torque on the wheel nuts what about the spacer nuts? Cheers

The cats are the most restrictive point so unless you replace those its irrelevant I think. If you do decat and y pipe the car I doubt you would see a restriction due to the scorpion but im not technical enough to say for sure.

If women are reading it on the tube does that mean I can stream pornhub on the way to work on my tablet? I would use the earphones obviously...

Get a scorpion with a popcharger. Every track day I go to someone I dont know comes over and tells me my car sounds good and asks what its running. Thats good enough for me

Mate, them fixing your drop links certainly does not mean the car is not fit for purpose under the sale of goods act.

On the warranty if there is such an exclusion you are likely to be sunk. If not however it may not be the answer. The law may provide that where something is a systemic fault (this issue is not just known but seems to happen to most cars) then it they dont have to cover it as then its not insurance against possible failure but moving toward a means of paying for a manufactures fault to be corrected. I dont think thats something you would need to restate in a policy document to be effective if you were willing to defend it all the way. However there is at least an arguement which looks attractive if there is no specific exclusion and that may be enough to encourage settlement on a relatively low value claim.

I agree with zugara at the end of the day its likely you are going to have to pay to have it fixed. If you are going to have a go at them you at least need to call the act the sale of goods act or they will think you are just one of those chancers who likes to see what they can get but does not really have a clue. For what its worth my rough knowledge of the sale of goods act as it applies to secondhand cars is not going to support a position that the car was not fit for purpose at the point of sale - that purpose probably being to be driven along the road.

Honestly it really is straight forward. No more difficult than plugging you tv in. Its just the access that sucks.

This has worked well for me in case others need to know. Took no more than 10 minutes

Did it and the stereo was fine.

Given how restricted the access was to the plug - got to love zugaras suggestion of moving the seats forward a bit try more like move them all the way forward and place your forehead on the carpet behind the drivers seat the identify the little bugger - I assume your chap took the seat out to do the soldering?

Unpluged sprayed with switch cleaner reconnected and reset them last night. Light is off at the moment but I have barely driven her since. Will update at the end of the weekend. Thanks in the meantime all. Shinjuku

Im sure I read somewhere that if you disconnect the battery that the stereo needs a security code putting in it and if you dont have it you need to take it to nissan and have them charge you 50 quid. I know I dont have that code. Sounds like this should not be the case to me - stereo should just work? Whats the score with this.

Ok. Thanks all. Will have a look.

Thanks neil is it a non standard fitting? Most airbag ecu since 2000 have been the same plug but some of the japanese manufactures seem to do it differently

Is there a how too on it at all. Which are the right plugs. Happy to break and remake a connection and spray a bit of switch cleaner in there but would like to be sure the air bags are not going to go off when I do it. Should the battery be disconnected for half an hour and then just get in there under the seats? Which plugs is it. I assume some will be for the heated / electric seats and some will be airbag?

My airbag light keeps coming on. I reset the system using the method based on four turns of the ignition key but it keeps coming back. Are there any known likely culprits to look into when this happens and what are the steps to do that? Is the four turn method enough to clear any underlying error code or is there another clear method I should try before concluding that something is busted

Looks like I may have to get a diagnostic machine on my airbag system as the light keeps coming on. Is the system plug obd as most are or is it unusual like honda?

Given what has been said above should this not be made a sticky. Seems people spending 350 a side including fitting for a new joint is a total waste of money.

I suspect my garage used a torque wrench.

I forgot to post in this thread but after 2.5k miles im still click free