Willieo

Just did mine. Must have taken me about 8 hours. I have burgundy mohair on silver grey car now and it looks the business and goes up and down smoothly. Mazda Hood store supplied it. I watched the YouTube video many times and also found the Nissan instructions. One nasty problem encountered was both side tension wires broken at the front A pillar end and corrosion at the point this secures on one side. I guess at 15 years old it was letting damp in. I found a work around to fix that. I have the old one for the tip unless I should save the rear window for someone.

They're on my 2005 GT roadster. Both heated and with electric adjustment.

Just read an Evo with long term test on a convertible and was taken aback by the stated depreciation over 12 months from new at £16k! Way past a grand a month before you even fill it up.

Ask the guy doing off the car balancing to balance for zero unbalance. Often they leave 20g or so residual unbalance as an acceptable level but on some cars it's still not acceptable. I put up with high speed vibs with 18"BBS on my 300ZXTT for a couple of years thinking it was as good as it could get after balancing a couple of times but when I explained to a tyre guy he said he could balance for zero unbalance. I thought duh! isn't that what you do anyway and it turns out no. Balanced for zero and my 300ZXTT is smooth as silk at any speed. I always ask this now.

Unfortunately the scrot fairy just paid my virtually flawless gunmetal 350z roadster a visit too. Was it because I washed it the previous weekend and it had lost the protective coating of grime and road salt? Did from the passenger door right onto and over the rear wheelarch. What kind of people breed these zombies? They see something nice then think I'll just do some destruction for kicks. Well if curses and witchcraft work this person will get what they deserve. My 300ZXTT has escaped this so far despite owning it for 10 years but my V8 engined MGZT also succumbed a couple of years back. I want a proximity or touch sensor that lets off high voltage or something effective now.

Check level is not too high in the reservoir. It could be a hydraulic effect on expansion. Make sure there is an air space.

I have something similar for years in the garage. It was well worth the £20 or so for even the first time I needed it to shift over tightened wheel nuts. It comes out now and again when needed. It's no use for a pro but you'd happily spend that when you have a stuck bolt or nut to shift and you don't have the muscle or leverage or time to waste faffing around to do it. It might only be used 10 times in its whole life but £2 a go is fine value.

Do these have an off switch? Mines has this fitted and it works quite well. I just have never found out how to turn it off. It seems wrong just to close the flap over a still on screen. Maybe I just missed the off button!

These are tough times! Keep on looking or look for another at least £1500 off it. Those wheels are pothole magnets and will cost you a bit extra on insurance. It has aftermarket rear lights fitted. Watch for other mods as they are all insurance excess charges. £143 road tax sounds sus. With a good look around and being prepared to travel you can find much better deals. I was lucky enough to find a sound, stock, UK GT roadster 55 plate way below this kind of asking price. No insurance hassles and still the pre March 06 road tax rate.

Did anyone get any? The site had said something like 20 sets available I think.

I had half a tank of 95 and topped it up with V power to full so I now have a full tank of 96 and it drives perfectly.

By Planetsurfer2 If you look at my dynos you'll see a difference of about 7 HP. First dyno was with 95RON fuel, second was with 98RON fuel. Is there a link? I am surprised that only 7bhp difference was measured. I doubt most people could even feel that. Is the torque down at lower rpm though?

I drove the whole of the last DTE. It shows flashing - after about 25 left and I drove more than that then some then chickened out and put in all of 75 litres and over £100 to fill it. That was sore. So on that basis DTE on mine is approx. whatever it says plus about 30 miles safety margin. I have run my 19 year old 300ZX TT completely dry and it didnt do it any harm either. Fuel filters catch anything iffy these days.

My 300ZX UK spec twin turbo is tuned for 95 and I tried running it on premium to see if there was a difference. There wasnt except at the till. I realise that it could be retuned timing wise to take advantage of premium but if it isnt then it is pointless. That said I have run the 350Z on 95 and I can hear pinking at low speed in high gears and now that I have tried 99 octane I can feel a real difference in the way the engine responds. What I didnt find was better fuel consumption but maybe that was because I was enjoying the better response and engine power.

Surely the knock sensor retards the timing if it senses pinking?

I was worried about this on my new 350z and had taken to jagging the starter a couple of times so that it turned but didnt fire up to prime the oil system because I could hear rattles until the oil pressure came up. I know it is literally less than a second but this is when you get wear. I thought most likely a crap or faulty oil filter allowing drain back overnight or rubbish oil. So replace the oil with full synthetic and a new KN oil filter ( arent the oil filters titchy on these?) Result no rattle this morning just the right sound when it lights up and jumps straight to 2000rpm! before settling back. These engines do fire up instantly and do seem to rev quite high just when lub oil pressure could be slow to build.

Mine too corner same spot.

If the fluid expands at all with no air gap it then forces the slave cylinder into part operation causing the symptoms seen. Once fluid cooled down in moving traffic again symptoms go and the pedal stops sticking. Once back in traffic and stop start with heating up the symptoms come back. The bite point of the clutch did not change thankfully. This is nothing to do with the master or slave cyclinders being faulty. It is either the wrong cap on the master cylinder leaving no expansion space when the fluid is at the high mark or the high mark is in the wrong place meaning it is over filled. Simple cure is get a few ml out of it with a straw. Shame for any poor sod who was misled into replacing either the slave or master cylinders for this problem!

Just had the clutch pedal go sticky and feel like nothing was there the first part of the travel. This happened when stuck in heavy M5M6 interchange traffic in hot weather. I am pretty sure what is happening is that the fluid is heating up and expanding and pre loading the hydraulic system. I was worried that it was going to fail all together. Once traffic cleared and it got going again the problem disappeared. I checked the level and it is obvious what is going on. When the level is at the high mark in the reservoir the cap plug goes into the fluid and the effect is that there is no air space for expansion of the fluid. I have taken out some fluid and believe the proper level to be no higher than half way between the low and high marks. There needs to be some air space or as soon as the fluid expands it will cause the problem all over again. So check that you dont have fluid all the way to the top plug as it is too high there.

The bottom edge on mine is floppy and I think it might vibrate at speed like the bumpers on some of those older Mondeos used to. Should there be a trim on this or some kind of stiffener? One of the 2 straps had broken but even though I repaired that the centre part still sags a little.

Hi All, just acquired a 55 plate 350Z roadster in Gunmetal with orange seats. On its first drive of over 400miles from London back to central Scotland it achieved over 32mpg even with the traffic jams around Brum. This now becomes my eco car with at least a 50% capacity factor whenever I drive it which is as often as possible right now. I have owned a 240Z in the distant past and I also have a 300Z TT owned for about 10 years! My other otherwise sensible car for 4/5 bods is a MGZT with 4.6L V8. I have to say that this 350Z is quite unlike the various road test reports I read over the years! It is smooth, quiet, handles nicely, has great brakes, the gearstick does not vibrate and the fuel tank is enormous. It sounds good too. It looks much better up close than I expected and I its not common. I was tempted to go for a German make with a P but this 350Z just ticks more boxes and after so much experience with zeds I kind of like their engineering.