longsh07

Cheers Smudge! So now the big question is V2 or V3 lol

Just something interesting while researching: Vehicles equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with headlamp washers and a suspension or headlamp self levelling system. Where HID or LED dipped beam headlamps are fitted, switch on the headlamps and check the operation of any headlamp levelling and cleaning devices fitted. Keyword, MAY. So surely that means if they are fitted they have to work, but if they are not fitted then there is no issue? Source: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_170.htm

Me too, to be honest as long as they would pass an MOT I'm not fussed if they work properly lol. I never let my car get dirty enough to need them.

it still should be possible to fit the jets to the V2 and V3 if there is a suitable surface to mount them on and still have the washer covers flush with the body

Ah so the washer jet is actually attached to the bumper rather than anything behind it. So in theory they should fit fine to any bumper with a flat surface for them to mount on. Quoted for reference:

Hi Guys, Trying to decide on a body kit for my 350z and I really like the V2 and V3 Nismo front bumpers but Im concerned about the headlamp washers. Ive done some research and some are saying you can cut holes for them while others say because of the different shape the washers wont stick out enough and so they should just be removed/disabled. If they we're removed/disabled, would this not be an MOT failure? Hope someone can shed some light, maybe provide some pics of V2/V3 with washers cut out or let me know if they have had any issues at MOT time. Cheers.

Brilliant service by CS, my spacers arrived very quickly. Very happy with them and being kept up-to-date with PM's was a nice touch

Im looking at buying some gold TPI wheel nuts to match the brembos but I can't find any solid info to say if the factory GT4 wheels have a 60 degree tapered (conical) seat. Can anyone confirm? Cheers!

Sorry to revive a old threat but I feel like I should update just for reference. Took the car to Nissan who tested the alarm system (all sensors worked, no error codes) but they couldn't trigger the alarm. They had it twice but only charged me for the first diagnostics as they never found an answer. So as that was a failure I decided to have a mobile car security guy come and install an aftermarket system. Bit annoyed that I couldn't fix the original alarm but to be honest I might be better off! Appreciate the help you guys gave me even if it amounted to nothing.

Nice find on the video. I understood why you want a diff and how it works before hand but the fact they mocked one up and explained why you need each part was very useful.

Wish I could justify a set of TE37's

Could you mask off the area around it and just rattle can it?

That's some pretty impressive stuff! Would make a great clear coat for paintwork. Looks like it leaves a white tint at the moment judging by the boots at the end of the video.

I keep reading different things which contradict each other! Thanks Ad

Cheers but attachment seems to be broken Post just reads Yep ... can't help with that I'm afraid ... maybe a mod could help ... I'm afraid I don't have a copy on my Mac or laptops because they have all been renewed since I made the calculator Never mind, thanks for your help anyway

Cheers but attachment seems to be broken Post just reads

Good to know, any pictures of it at all Ian? Also that means my option 3 should be fine. Hopefully it will settle my need to modify the car until I can realistically afford the rims without using man maths. Never mind Ian found your build thread

Good to know, any pictures of it at all Ian? Also that means my option 3 should be fine. Hopefully it will settle my need to modify the car until I can realistically afford the rims without using man maths.

Just been doing a bit more reading/research into this and it looks like option two would mean I need to adjust the rear camber or get a camber kit to avoid hitting the arches. As an option 3, I have though about keeping the current wheels (GT4 Rays) and sticking 20/25 spacers on then lowering 30mm. Not seen any mention of this causing any rubbing or needing camber kit/arches rolled. So would this make a good short term solution, while I save some pennies for rims and possible camber kit?

Brilliant, thanks a lot!

So there's no issues with that setup? Thats good to know. Cheers

Hey guys, Sorry if this has been answered already, I have read a bunch of threads but cant seem to find what im looking for. I also may answer my own question but I'd appreciate your thoughts. In future I want to fit some 19" Volk TE37's (ET22), lower the car 30mm on Eibach springs and give it a nice flush look that 20/25 spacers on standard 18" rays gives the car. I also want to steer clear of rolling the arches. The two setups I'm considering are: Front: 19x8.5 Rear 19x9.5 (5mm spacers on front only) Front: 19x9.5 Rear 19x10.5 (no spacers) Setup 1 would poke the wheels out similar to 20/25 spacers on standard rays but is it OK to run spacers on the front only? Setup 2 on the other hand might cause the fronts/rears to rub on the arches, sticking out past the arches, or hit the suspension. Is it OK to run wheels this wide on an standard Zed lowered 30mm? I looked at http://www.rayswheel...19&for=domestic and it says the 19x10.5 ET22's aren't suitable for Zed's with Brembo's unlike the 8.5/9.5's but Im sure i've seen people fitting them without issue? Any thoughts much appreciated! __________________ Below I've included all the inner clearance/outer position info Setup 1 would give me: Front Inner clearance: 2mm more Outer position: extend 14mm (+5mm spacer) = 19mm Rear Inner clearance: 2mm less Outer position: extend 24mm Setup 2 would give me: Front Inner clearance: 11mm less Outer position: extend 27mm Rear Inner clearance: 14mm less Outer position: extend 36mm

Cheers guys will give it a go

Does anyone know which fuse controls the alarm? Also which panel would it be on?