Hayd350

Quick question to any one in the know. Looking to order tyres this aft, after all my calculations i was going to purchase a 255 up front and a 275 rear (9.5j et 22 and 10.5j et 20) After a final check there seems to be a lot of people running a 245 up front on a 9.5? Any one any ideas why, i think the 255's are closer to factory spec and match the 275's better.

That's a good shout actually, thanks for that. I'll give this a go and see if it has an effect.

Did you go full kit all over? Did you change them becuase the others were worn, or just because you hoped they'd feel better? Nice vid Robboí ½í±. @ Stu; the front bushes are the ones that commonly fail but all OEM rubber bushes fail to various degrees over time. Shrinking, perishing/cracking, tearing and full blown separation are all degrees of bushing failure. Therefore depending on the degree of failure you may get minimal symptoms or knocking to outright diabolical handling! If you consider that most zeds are over 10yrs old there are a lot out there that would benefit with bushing changes. There is nothing wrong with the OEM bushes except they are to soft and allow excessive mov't which dulls handing and eventually they will fail again bring made of rubber. Secondly the compression arm design was poor which leads to premature compresion bush failure. This issues was addressed by Nissan on the HR and 370z I think. Urethane is better but as the vid shows you need to get well designed ones. I have used Superpro, whiteline and energy suspension. Superpro are up there, whiteline a close second and energy suspension third because some of their bushes are poorly designed. However if you swap those bushes for superpro or whiteline equivalent as I have done for the 2 chaps here you end up with a competent package and some significant savings. Monoball/spherical/rose jointed bushes are the ultimate because there is no bind or stiction and there supension geometry is always maintained optimally as there is no unwanted mov't. However they don't last forever as they are prone to salt corrosion and they are impractical for daily driving. I have been lucky to have been able to swap to full urethane bushes in the past and again to solid monoball bushes which are currently on the car. I have also done the full urethane swap for 2 members here. So I can attest to the fact that every single bush showed significant wear. One thing is for certain the handling is night and day and if you have other suspension mods like ARB, coilovers and adjustable arms it further enhances them. I will be offering a drive in bushing replacement and general suspension service soon and there will be various packages to suit all budgets and usage but in anycase priced very competitively. Morning mate, seems yo have a lot of knowledge regarding the front suspension set up and bush failure. I've got a bit of an issue on my HR now approaching 91k. I've switch both banana arms over the last two years and to be honest cost me a chunk diagnosing those issues. Is there an order in which bushes tend to perish? I've got a creak when i sit in and mild knocking over bumps straight after lowering (Tein springs 17mm) If you could can shed any light on my issue that'd be much appreciated. I did read that the control arms are prone and seen as though i have a creak as soon as i get in i figured it could be the damper mount bush or something? I'm just chucking ideas at it though and it's based on minimal knowledge to be fair.

Not yet no, although an order has gone in so don't really fancy annihilating the tyre fund on suspension fault finding. To be fair it sounds like a toned down version of the noise emitted from the banana arm bushes when they start to go so i figure it's just another bush on another arm. Just difficult to figure out which one so was curious if there were any other notoriously iffy bushes that would be worth focusing my attention.

If the ARB links were too long would this create a bit of knocking? I did look at adjustable links but didn't think they were required with such a short drop.

It's on stock shocks but they're bone dry mate. I noticed it as soon as i dropped it so I'd originally assumed I'd simply missed a nut. I'm guessing shock damage may occur over time but not instantly.

Afternoon chaps, Recently lowered my car on Tein's and straight after noticed a slight knocking and creaking from the drivers side. I've been round every nut to re tighten and all is well there. I've spent hundreds in the past fault finding so i know it's not the banana arms as they are brand new on both sides, i've also had the hub assembly and i believe the anti roll bar link on this side swapped too. Can anyone with suspension knowledge give me some advice as to what to check first based on a recent lowering, seems more audible at lower speeds and definitely creeks as soon as i get it. Could an adjustment in camber have upset a tired bush on the lower control arm or something? Just trying to avoid the whole trial and error garage bill that's all. Thanks in advance. Hayd.

Cheers for that Ekona, i really don't want to move up to a 19 as i think the 350 sits better on an 18. Plus my route to work wouldn't take it. I'll run what ever is advised to be honest as i don't want any TCS issues. I've just run the figures back through willtheyfit and it's suggesting the arch gap gain will be 0.25mm on a 275 40, that's like the width of a hair? May just be a case of too many bourbon's whilst inputting the figures during the ten minutes that the missus was telling me about her day. Does actually make sense from a rolling radius point of view i guess.

I was looking at a 275 to be honest, i figured a 285 may need an arch roll as Tein's don't alter the camber that much. Suppose the wider tyre with minimal stretch could make up the 10mm lost in profile height, is that the thinking? Looking at 18's 9.5 et 22 fronts and 10.5 et 20 rears. 245/275 tyres. I'll run the figures through willtheyfit and see what difference a 285mm will make, thanks for that.

Morning Chaps, Think a wheel order is likely to go in today but I'm having trouble making decisions on tyres. I'm sat on Tein s techs and the tyre gap is spot on after the 14mm drop rear as my daily. My problem is if I'm running a 10.5 i know that for all the factory spec rolling radius and all that jaz i need to run a 40 profile tyre but ideally i want to run a 45 all round otherwise I'm pretty much back to factory arch gap. I know a few lads on here are running 35's so surely a step in the other direction can't make a difference? Any advise as usual is appreciated. Cheers.

Afternoon guys, as you can see this is a stunning example but can anyone shed any light on this spoiler, it's exactly what I'm after but I've not seen it any where else. This looks really slim and tapers off on each end, nice and subtle but a little tasty at the same time.

I'd agree with Jake, takes a bit of time to settle in. I loved the sound of my stock with Berk hfc's but after the 2nd stock failed i opted for the Miltek as a worthy replacement that had the look i was after. Gotta admit i was a tad disappointed at first but now i think the combination is probably bang on. I did toy with removing the silencer on the mid pipe but never bothered. Nice tone when in town and then unleash the fury on the work run and it's got a good tone to it that attracts the attention of the Aston guys rather than the Corsa massive. Worth looking at a set of hfc's though, well chuffed with the Berks

Had my eye on one of these for a while now. Are there any of the original 10 at £50 still available?

Sounds promising cheers. I did look on ebay but most are for the early DE. There's a near side one available in the uk and a couple kicking about the US but that's about it.

Afternoon chaps, I imagine there's loads of folk that have replaced their amber reflectors for clear alternatives and have their old amber ones sat in the shed. Looking for an offside (Drivers side) for a 2008 HR. Mines shattered due to road shrapnel. Cheers.

Yeah i've still got the Berks on, couldn't part with those. Just seem to have lost an element of raw tone when i fitted the Milltek and on these recent sunny days i've just wanted a touch more un resonated sound.

Has any one replaced the mid pipe on their Milltek system? It's got a resonator in it and i'm looking to swap it out for a non resonated option. These don't seem to be available off the shelf so is my only option to get a custom mid pipe made? It's a great exhaust but i preferred the tone of the stock with the Berks, seemed to crackle and rasp more and i want to try get a bit of that back. As always any help is appreciated. Hayd.

No worries. Appreciate the but in. That garage bill set me back a few hundred so to drive away with brake squeal annoyed the crap outta me. Just after a cheep fix and if copper grease is all it's going to take I'm a happy man.

I should attempt this first. To be fair squeal is an understatement, I can't imagine grease is gunna sort it but I'm on the forum for advice so I'll take it and try it. Cheers for that, I'll report back.

Your car sits so nicely on those 18s mate! It really does, this setup pushes me away from 19's. Be interested in knowing the specs, offsets and tyre sizes for this setup, combined with the arch gap it all just looks meaty.

Hi Mate, I've got crazy brake squeal from my 2 month Brembo's so i'm looking to swap them over for red stuff to see if the ceramic solves the problem. Rather than fork out for a brand new set these would do the job, that way if they don't solve the problem i'm not so outta pocket. If you've still got them how does £20 delivered sound? Cheers.

ha ha kind of, i wasn't sure if the thickness of this piece would allow for it but yeah i guess any thing can be sanded like you say and this seems pretty thick. Just got to work out how it comes out then.

Assistance from the masses. I'm looking to dip the door switch covers on my HR which seems to be standard procedure these days but i'm toying with the idea of doing the "center console accent" The section i'm referring to is the top center trim that the sliding cubby / heated seat switches / arm rest etc are part of. This section looks like it'd be easy to remove without to much trouble but has anyone done it and if so does it sand down to a smooth finish ready for hydro graphics? Rather ask the question now than strip it all down only to realize the answer is no. Any assistance is appreciated, i've searched but i dont really know what this item is called. Cheers.

Just an update and a bit of a thank you. Got this sorted and fitted, big thanks to shades RS for help and shipping also justthejedi for the nudge. Only a small item but it was starting to wind me up. Its the small things like this that remind me why i joined.

Thanks for that, contact has been made so hopefully this relatively minor yet incredibly annoying item can be sorted again.