ikarus

+1 me too.

Yeah i think all JL kit is a little expensive but usually good though. They look like a good compromise when space is tight, would have considered a pair of them in my MR2 if they were about in those days. They usually puch above their weight too. Thanks, maybe i would sell them if somebody wanted them, i need to update all the CAD models to 'as fitted' as some minor alterations were necessary during installation. Wouldn't take too long to do though if someone were interested. I did use software to design all of the enclosures, i used bass box 6 pro and winISD comparitively for volume and port length etc. and also some additional software for calculating port flare to avoid port noise (can't remember the name). Then obviously 3D cad software to model everything and measure volume to match the design requirements. The boot enclosure design got quite complicated because i needed to gain as much volume as possible to get the tuning low. It all worked out very well, but then i have been working on this for quite some time, i think last Aug i began planning End result is a very clean dynamic bass response. Thanks, and yes agreed, bandpass seems to get quite complicated quite quickly - never gone down this route. Ported and sealed are very well established methods so you know what you are going to get within reason - and if not, someone else does

..that would be very tricky Seriously though, there's always a way to achieve good bass. Like all engineering problems it's a matter of compromise.. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... age_id=245 ^ these interest me, haven't heard one yet but might be worth further investigation.

It is indeed, im just hoping ikarus decides to knock a few up and sell them otherwise my heads going to explode hertzes and stuff everywhere Thanks guys, spent a LOT of time on this install, the pain was in the design more than the build. I could be convinced to put a few together but it would depend on interest and of course time & cost. I could figure out the latter but I would need to see if there's significant interest first tbh, i would want to do a batch in one hit IF i were to do it. Also, my enclosures were designed for a JL8w3v2 subwoofer - it would need to be determined whether other subs would fit - it's all posible..

I will have a look for the models when i get home. *NB ANYONE ATTEMPTING ONE OF THESE BOXES - you need to be super carefull with subwoofer depth. At the angle that the sub sits, the magnet is extremely close to the base of the box, and if you make the box deeper then it doens't fit in the space. It is very, very close and from memory took around 4 or 5 design itterations over several weekends untill i cracked it.

Thankyou sir, and in answer - yes and maybe. Vented requires more volume, but is genereally more efficient and tunes a little lower. My 8's run down to around 62Hz, they are really clean and punchy, but they don't go really low (this is what they are designed for this in my system - midbass). I just did some calcs on tuning the 8's low and they will run as low as 50Hz it if vented and in a larger enclosure. However it would be difficult to design an enclosre that would fit (and be removable) while still being close to optimum design volume. The problem is that while there is plenty of volume in there, it's not very accesible. The possible solution would be to run external ports, thus reducing required internal volume and achieving correct port length. In short, yes i think it could be done but it would take some work to do it neatly

I think you've hit the nail on the head there maz0. Volume is the big issue, although there are pre built boxes available - i think JL even manufacture one for the zed in this location. Personally i run a ported 12 in the rear but it's at the cost of a spare. I managed to design and build an 82 litre dual ported enclosure in there which tunes down to 24Hz, but it took some work. It actually exceeded my expectations in perforamance though, the zed rear is a nice shape (ooh er) for cabin gains if tuned correctly. I've never done a 'big' install before so this was one big learning curve. few pics of the CAD design work.. Believe it or not this is removable also, it fastens down using the spare wheel thread. It's in the paint shop currently then on to the trimmer, when it's back i'll get some finished pics up.

Here are my enclosures. I designed them and built them myself and are sized to volume match a sealed 8in JL8w3v2 subwoofer. The volume for each box is 10.6 ltr (0.375 ft3). The design of these is such that the can be removed easily, with only 4 machine screws and 2 bolts per unit. I had to purchase another blank cover from Nissan to finish the side which had the glove box, but it wasn't expensive and the end result was what i wanted. It actually took about a month to design and refine these untill the fit was just right, plus i used 3D CAD to ensure the volumes were perfect for the subwoofers. The idea at all times was to look 'in keep' with the car - ie not too much flash, but also get the build quality and volume spot on for optimum performance. Space for encolsures In location Cut and edged Nissan trim As per CAD design, total stealth no flash install P.S. If you are intending to install a 10in or 12in sub in there check with the manufacturer what their recommended sealed enclosure volume is - there is not a lot of room

I bought a set of these last yr.. ..which from memory were a little over 1k + tyres, they have a specific 350z fitment with great offsets. Drop me a pm if you want more details on the wheels

You are correct, i made a quick call to my local Nissan stealer who confirmed this. Should be straight forward to replace front studs. Thanks for your reply

Anyone done this, i have 2 studs with damaged threads on the front of my 03 JDM with brembo's that i need to replace pronto. I've oredered the studs from Nissan which are nice and cheap. I read a how too on the tech wiki which showed the removal of the caliper, disc (which i would expect) AND a small drum brake!? but this was for the rear of a non brembo zed. I want to get onto this tomorrow but i'm not sure about this drum assembly, if indeed it exists on the front. Would appreciate any advice.. Dave

I've had a play with this stuff. It's faily easy going on flat(ish) shapes but bl00dy difficult with big contour changes. Too much stretch in the material and you lose the lines in the pattern. I wrapped the door handle interior cups, mainly to match some custom audio fibreglass that i am wrapping also.. Very fiddly though, but with patience the results are great

What volume does the sub need?

I wouldn't expect the stock alternator to handle that power. I have 750w of JL amps in my zed running a ported 12 (@24Hz), two sealed 8's for midbase behind the seats and a set of comps up front (and some coaxials for rear fill, but i wouldn't honestly bother with these). I put a yellow top in to replace the stock battery and it runs and charges just fine (sounds awsome too). I think you would need to upgrade the power cabling, ie 'the big three' (battery to earth, battery to alternator, alternator to earth). If i remember correctly anything over 1000w should ring alarm bells regarding battery and alternator. Would be interesed in some build pics bud - which reminds me, really should get mine up at some point

A friend of mine did this last yr in his g35 350gt, i think with the skyline owners club. I'll ask him for details, could be interesting.

^ Done, thanks

pm re: PIAA Silcone wiper set

Sh!t - in that case i might raise the car instead of lowering it

Thanks for the pics Ian, did you fit a camber kit on the rear? + any issues scraping that lip?

CS is fitting my tanabe sustec pro coilovers this weekend that i bought from Carbon Forza . I'm running 245/35/19, 275/35/19. I'm not looking to slam it, just tidy the appearance by closing the gaps - particulary the rears. I'm running a varis carbon splitter and ings+1 lx sides so that is a factor. Any advice from those of you that are lowered on how low to go? Some spring kits lower the front more and some lower the rear more, not sure what thats about? just keen to here any experiences. Pic to follow..

disb, pm'd

^ this link is your bonnet damper kit not boot struts. Incedently though, is your bonnet kit for all zed's or do imports / early / later zeds etc vary? I might be interested in a set of these.

Just fitted mine, bought from SGS as per last post. Needed to dremmel the old OEM ball joint socket (alum) but it was easy enough tbh and there are guides on the net - only took 10 mins. Fit and look is spot on. I had my struts gassed to +15% of OEM, which as OEM are set at 400N, equates to 460N. I'm told these struts are good to 1200N so 460N is not going to cause an problems. I read on the yank site that people were buying them at +30% and they were too powerfull and hitting the upper bump stops a bit too hard, hence i went for +15%, midway. SGS can add more gas to these if necessary, you can return them in the post and for free they will adjust them, a good service i felt. I thought i would update the post as i needed to do a reasonable amount of research and still ended up taking a punt at the pressure, but it turned out great

Will do. They are sat in my office. I had a full respray before xmas and will be getting some trim work done shortly . It will depend on how much it costs to have some matching mats made up.