Husky

hey i managed it and im 23 so it cant be too hard win win win think win

+2

+2 put my donation towards club funds if not the domain name

ok so the bit below may be really confusing and really needs pictures to explain. if you are not interested in the intricate workings of a window regulator please look away now!!! This is the most boring thing youll read all year. if the system is anything like the system on my old mitsi gto which i think it might be. a wire is attachced at one end to the window, it goes along the length of the regulator and round a plastic wheel and into some covering which for the life of me i cant remember its name (steel wrapped in plastic to keep tension). the cable then passes through some springs to keep tension on the system and into the motor housing. in here it spirals round a reel a number of times, (perhaps 5) to aid in gripping the cable and provide the reeling in/out action . at the centre of the reel this length of cable ends with a block hooked into the plastic of the reel. another cable starts, again hooked by a metal block and continues round the reel before exiting the housing and going through another spring, down the sheathing, round the other pulley and then attached to the window. the purose of having 2 cables is to give fixing ends to attach them to the reel preventing slippage. basically when the window is all the way up, the point where the cables cross over and enter the reel is at the top, and as you wind it down they travel to the bottom. the amount of cable wound round the reel is equal to the distance the window travels. the motor uses a worm and worm gear attached to the face of the reel to turn it. this worm gear arrangement is what prevents you from pushing the window down yourself. if the cable is reeled out to far it will be damaged. also the reels grooves the cable sits in wear over time and so the cable falls out the groove and winds itself up in a ball and ruins the regulator.

If he agrees to the terms and you manage to purchase it out of your own pocket I'd be more than happy to donate some moolah too through the DONATE button to help out i hope others will feel the same way. it doesnt take long all donating a fiver to reach 100 cmon you rich kids! (i am not a rich kid btw for the record ) https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_xclick&business=accounts%40350z%2duk%2ecom&item_name=350Z%2duk%2ecom%20Donation&no_shipping=0&no_note=1&tax=0&currency_code=GBP&lc=GB&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF&charset=UTF%2d8

surely you could sell the metal on for a profit at those prices!

its sunny here hope your having a good (if very drunk) time

i had typed this post already but it didnt sumbmit for some reason... here it is again. BM!!!!! I just ordered them and then the first thiing i see is that!!! s**t myself big style there! its just a demo pic so no worries they have drop down boxes to select the right things; manual, model year, back colour, lighting colour. so they are bought and payed for, they accept paypal they cost bout 85 quid all in with postage.

my slip lanes are all downhill

i thought about that but its my pet hate having them there i feel they ruin the finish. if i go on a euro trip i'll just change the digital readout to kmph no? and the sat nav?

EDIT: double post

thanks yeah i was quite annoyed when i saw the hotspots, its not bad really but I still notice it I was considering adding extra led's or choosing a differnt colour than white but really cant be arsed it still looks fine. I just looked at a pic in orange before i did it god it looked bad so much orange! I think its the choice of colour that may be key. if you choose a warm colour its very easy to see and may look better? maybe the hotspots are there because ive soldered a few of the led's ever so slightly squint so they dont point down the plastic ring properly?? will make more sense with pics in the guide. be patient ive not ordered the dials yet but am going to do so today, im going to go for black with neutral. in this style: (btw they have added the face i incorrectly requested to thier site )

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldne ... y-use.html

The results of the weekends labour! dispite the rain considering in the past ive only ever cleaned using the halfords cheapy special and whatever wax if any was lying around im chuffed to bits!

so im sitting here at 20 to 1 in the morning still trying to decide between stainless and black dial faces. think im goig to go black, no, stainless no... anyway i finally pulled some pics off the proper camera so here they are: bear in mind, this is before i had fitted the unit back in place.

If you have a BMS (battery monotoring system, i assume z's dont?) its very important you connect through the jump points in the instruction booklet. otherwise you will confuse the ststem as it doesnt know the batteries state. it will slowly recalibrate itslef but you'll get the dash shiny warning lights in the mean time.

sound advice, use a range rover 220A alternator oh and after you get it started leave the jump leads on for a bit with them both running to get the battery good and charged. heres something, ive always used a grounding point for the -ve side to protect ecu's etc, is this neccesary with the zed?

been there done that funny now, not then ouch!

also jumping it from a car with alot of "gadgets" and a bigger engine would be better as they will have put a more powerfull alternator in it to cope with all the loads. obviously with the gadgets off

So true, I only really notice the ones that try to burn you off the lights then look stupid cause u cant be bothered silly chavs, priceless

if i remember correctly the other car should be running decent amount of revs to give its alternator a fighting chance, then it shoud be kept wired up for a period of time at said revs before trying the start. a battery at low charge levels behaves just like a load on the car so if you imagine it as trying to start it with all the lights fans etc on

wheres the stone chips? no fair! very

the components in most cars as far as im aware are designed to work down to roughly 9V if it drops below this it highly unlikely the car will start. it doesnt mean theres nothing in the battery though, hence the relay chatter. however if you keep trying to start it it will kill the last remains of charge in the battery and possibly damage it due to it going so low. the alarm system may work below 9v and have kept going, who knows. new battery in and cross your fingers and toes?