BulletMagnet

To be honest KyleR, the rear clearance when lowered isn't really an issue as the rear bumper slopes up and isn't as low as the front. You should be fine if you just raised the front only. Before this kind of tech, owners of lowered cars used to reverse up stuff due to the rear being higher. But reading your post and reading your sig shows me that you are running stock suspension with lowering springs, which won't work with the lifters anyway because the width of OEM + lowering springs is wider than a coilover.

For some payback or stress relief... http://squishybird.com

I don't use auto-wash cos of: - aftermarket front lip - deep dish wheels - aftermarket sideskirts - aftermarket rear spats - lowered vehicle - CF bonnet (that i have spent way too much time restoring to have hard bristles ruin it) - vinyl wrapped roof

In regards to the rear setup

Sweeeeeeeet But keep it just in case

I called inner bleed nipple, what do I get?

Seen a 2nd hand setup over at m3cutters go for £600

When the car is static the damper will still have a compression of the standard weight of the vehicle, hence when you check your shocks you can bounce them and there is no contact within the shocks components on rebound. Otherwise you'd hear a knock if the internal shaft were to hit the top of the shock/damper housing. You won't be pulling off the top of your shock iLott, you are worrying too much

This might be worth a look when it's finished

I'm gonna move in next to Milla Jovovich...just in case

Your satnav should have a trip meter too

Get a mate to drive with you and both reset your trip meters before setting off. In a zed the sensation of speed is deceiving anyway

you're not expanding the damper.You basically remove the top mount off the coilover, ad the lifter to the top mount and then the whole assembly is the top mount. So when you raise the car it just lifts, and the shock extends normally was if you had long travel.

If they didn't work, then I doubt AirCups would offer the BC Racing/AirCup combo on their own site, so it has to work, right? Do you need an airtank with this setup or does it plumb straight from the compressor to the lifters?

I used to think the ride height was controlled by the golden collars which you adjust with the c-spanners and the only thing you adjust from the top is the dampening force. My only experience with coilovers is with Tein Basic Street Dampers tho on a Honda Prelude, so I don't know if it different, but would have thought the basic principle would be the same.

The shiny thing looks like a Viair Air Compressor. Also if you look at the front coilovers, they have additional sleeves mounted near the top with air hose connectors, which leads me to believe its a hydraulic lifting system to avoid speedbumps and the like

Have you checked the inside bleed nipples too? The front calipers have two nipples each

Has washer fluid been topped up?

KW suspension + KW HLS = sorted

Not odd at all, it's basic physics

All the 1:24th scale wheels you can want, BBK, Volk, OZ, etc http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?rel=nav&GenreCode=Aut&MacroType=TirWhe&Scale=24

You can usually get the whole range of Volk Wheels from either Fujimi or Yoshima models. They do run an entire line of aftermarket wheels without the need to buy cars

Chinese fake Lambo anyone?

Seems quite expensive, might try this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Glass-Sealant-Inhibitor-Coating-50ml/dp/B00A3S1RGU/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=08N5F3SJC6BF7CG07J0F A little goes a loooong way with this stuff. And don't just do headlights, do any exposed plastic. Black plastic under wing mirrors, plastic sill plates, engine bay plastics, B-pillar plastics, etc.

And after the PlastX treatment, use some GTechnic C4. Is chemically bonds with the bare plastic and provides UV protection and lasts up to two years