GT4 Zed

This has been posted to death. Use a tyre or wheel equivilent calculatorto work out your needs 100s on the interweb http://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/equ ... dvice.html or this http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual ... calculator

Ian, I'm so happy for you that have found the one Anymore details I wish we had had the that race in the zeds but maybe we will do it at some point on GTR with you blazing the trail Goodluck mate and keep us posted. but if you went for the R33 i will never speak to you again R34 or R35 FTFW BTW its a good thing you did not go TT; you would be broke after all the eventual hiccups Mid mount or rear mount @ around 380-400HP would be safer and cheaper Plus less heat, more turbo cooling = better oil longevity and hence engine life

Thats the spirit Greekman Its always a compromise balncing performabnce and comfort and if needs must then roll with it. I have to leave with the embarasing squeal of my PF 01 race compund on my Ksport BBk everyday as it never ger up to temp on my 4mile oneway comute to work but on tyhe track it all makes sense. That said I would have gone for the Quaife ATB. ...quiet, life time warranty, no need to service and just as bloody good as the clutch type LSD like nismo. cusco etc for trackday or racing but if drifting is your thing then a 2 way is best

Thanks Clarkie and others here for the posts . I did my rear wiper delete last week after getting the grommet fro halfrauds and i don't miss it

On a £30K sports car, yes they are. Dan, you could'nt be more blunt Sometimes you must ask yourself why bother And then you remember the porker parked outside and all becomes really clear in your mind

Comparing £ to HP you think that cams are better than a lower collector? Lower collector is roughly £250? and cams are rougly 3x that amount - before labour naturally Also don't forget that the HKS kit comes with its own oil supply & oil cooler & I believe cookbot already has an engine oil cooler Stock brakes are ok on a road car IMO, my car held up just fine on stock disks & pads and cams are a bitch of a job as are headers. Stock headers are also pretty good, certainly good enough to flow 400+ hp & definitely well enough to justify keeping them over the cost of a 10 hour labour bill just for install alone - the only reason I did them was because of the retarded cheap deal I got on them Lower collectors are also not designed for the DE cars which is why Nurrish never used one Ian bod you are just voicing my same thinking mate The std engine setup will make good HP and torque with most SC kits and the money could be spent elsewhere. I know your zed was quick and ok on std brakes but compared to what i only had a measly 288WHP full bolt on tune but i can guarantee you that with almost fully adjustable suspension and a BBK i would have kept you zed in the dark on most tracks and only loose out to it on on straights or the drag strip. It all comes down to what you are prepared to spend. Just like i think the cossie plenum was too much £ for HP! but i know how you like to do things The MREV2 is not £250 BTW unless you modify a std DE one yourself but if you import the real MD one you will be close to £400 in the end. Cams will make more noticeable gains depending on what you want out of the car and TBH you can get them for about £700 if you do your homework on my350z. I just got a ported intake manifold and original MREV2 and some few other bits through my my network from my 350z for about £200 I hope to be offering an import service soon

Hi chippy and everyone who kindly showed interest in sorting out their bushes or pm'ed me wrt questions related to bushes; - I am glad to anounce that Horsham developments will officially be the approved Superpro stockist and distributor for the forum and will offer the 10% discount i was had negotiated for furom members. - Infact i will add that Horsham will not only supply any superpro bushes but also offer a competitive fitting service. - I also have to add that Jez at Horsham is offering a cheaper base price than Superpro than i could have got and when you include the 10% discount it is a win-win for all concerned - i will be getting my bushes tomorrow and will get them fitted over the weekend with a little guide for those who want to DIY as myself and i would also put in a little review and if i attend the west midlands meet on sunday give passender rides or the opprotunity for chaps to feel the diffence and report back. So for all Superpro bushing requirements head towards Horsham for your needs.

I don't think it will make a major difference Especially when you compare £s to HP ratio With FI you are increasing the charge air with compression and hence providing more than enough intercooled to all cylinders whereas in NA tune every little helps. Personally i would spend my money on oil cooling or brakes or handling or better still cams. To butress my point note that the non tuner vortech or HKS sc kits use the OEM configurations both intake and exhaust and make the claimed power consistently and safely. Even our Nurrish got circa 420 WHP on max aggro tune without plenum spacers or MREV2 AFAIK . These bits are more important for squeezing the last drop of hp out of NA setup and though i have had them before and got them now again, they donot justify the hp/£ ratio . However money no object i will go for every available option to get every HP and ensure reliability whever i could ie Cosworth, SSV, APS, SGS intake. But remember headers and exhaust will have to be uprated too if the intake is uprated if not you choke the engine.

what do you have Cal? i might be interested in some resontaed decats myself. pm me details and price

I have always been a fan of paint to wraps and this proves you can't beat a good paint job.

Pms replied to.

Here you go: 1-The front arm is the transverse link and the rear arm is the compression arm and this would be the bush that is faulty; this is common the case;) No 10 and 12 on the schematic below for both Rh and LH:) i have a put up a potential GB for uprated urethane bushes by Superpro to replace the OEM rubber type bush. see thread under suspension and also suspension tech thread Stick your name down Alex sells OEM type rubber bush which is the other option. Solid bushes are also available from Abbey or SPL directly but cost more 2-The ARB link is No. 19/21 and you can get this from Alex or Nissan or even JDM performance but if your car is lowered you want adjustable ones like Powergrid from Adam @z-1 or similar from Abbey or Whiteline.

Thanks Chris for providing the answers. Always on the ball mate The price is for both sides. Could not catch up with Ross @ superpro today due to gtting pinned down at work but off tomoro so i will confirm price. They will last way longer than stock and you would find that 30K mile/3yrs waranty for something that is engineered for track use is damn good. It will be fit and forget for DD and fast road/hooning use. What you have to bear in mind is not just longevity but importantly it will firm up things in front hence better and consistent handling. People should be flocking in on this I can guarantee that almost all lowered zeds have this issue and most of those over 40K miles will have advance deterioration of the banana arm bush and other bushes.

Always fuelled as required No need to carry extra weight penalty if i need to do long a long journey i fill up 40l at a time at most. Only excption is when i know there will be no 98/99octane fuel on the way then i fill up to the brim On track days i go for 25l max per fill up and use the fuel brake to let the car cool and do checks

Daren's mx-5 looks pretty nimble and well hooked up well done guys

As the title says i have been in touch with Superpro Uk the only company to make polyurethane compression(banana) arm bushes to replace the common knackered OEM rubber bush resulting in clunking and knocking infront suspension from 30-40K miles onwards but worse is the poor feel and inability to retain geometry setup leading to increase tyre wear and poor handling. They cost £158.76 incl VAT - Superpro dealer recomended price but we will have a 10% discount on ontop of that! I will confirm final price tomorrow This discount offer applies to any of their other bushing offerings. See the diagrams in my thread for all bushings. Standard banana arm bush is product code SPF2847K. viewtopic.php?f=100&t=47058&start=0 Put your name down if strongly interested to get these. Note the only alternative is to buy new banana arm with OEM rubber bush from Nissan at +£300, used from breakers with no guarantees or get OEM type bush to replace worn bushes from traders here or get solid spherical bushings from SPL but these are back ordered for weeks. OEM type bushes will tear again especially if you zed is lowered or driven hard. Urethane and solid bushes are the best upgrades. They cost almost twice as the OEM type rubber bush but will last longer and handle better and consistently. The GB will entail buying direct from Superpro or their dealer. I would just be providing the discount code to club members before their purchase. Unless i negotiate a rep status in which case i will set up a member trader account as per forum rules and trade directly with members. We need to show interest by getting at least 5 names down asap . All items in stock. Feel free to direct all questions in this thread. I'll try to answer them. In summary what you get is: Improved handling and stability Long life, low maintenance Precision engineered for an exact fit Increased tyre and suspension life No increase in vibration and road noise 3 Year / 30,000-Mile Guarantee 1-GT4 Zed 2- 3- 4- 5-

Jez, nice to give some feedback with the superpro bush. WRT to camber arms i will recommend SPL and Eibach/SPC a distant second. I had Ichiba arms and they do the job and though i did not have any problems with them the quality is not the best and noticed one ball joint had some play and the dust covers were torn on both sides. It is a common problem so i would avoid any similar style camber arm. I have seen a Cusco arm after 1 year of fast road use and DD and it was in a similar mess Anyone modifying for track work, i would recommend doing atleast the compression arm bushes, the rear subframe and diff bushes uprated and engine mount or damper. If budget no limitation the doing all the bushes including engine and transmission mounts will be best. Getting adjustable suspension arms wherever possible, coilovers, ARB, endlinks, brakes, tyres, bracing, short shifter, LSD and weight loss will also be important. Power mods should be last on the cards as they make little difference unless you go FI or major NA. I will be interested in corner weighting if the price is right

Hey Ian, sad you will have to let the zed go but it would have happened sooner or later. Where have you been hiding or doing mate? I think you have nothing to loose by try to sell the car as is or puting out feelers for the uprated parts and selling or part ex-ing as stabndard to get the TDi But from recent experince in the forum it is lots harder to sell whole than strip I can support your quest with firm interest in a few parts

What do they mean by your geo was fine? put up the printout sheet mate what is the wear partern? Have you excluded a slow puncture? Secondly the alignment is only a static snapshot and does not show what is happenning dynamically so if we asume that all your suspension hardware (arms, dampers etc) and tyre integrity are sound, the fault could most likely be with your bushes, particularly the compression arm bush or even the ball joint. Inspect these for cracks, tears, shrinkage or play. The telltale sign will be unequal caster readings and some disparity in toe and camber in front geo. if you repeat the alignment check just after putting the new tyre(s) and infact if you repeat again after a short drive these readings will be different knocking is a late sign

Hi Ian, finally you have posted up the very sad event that has befallen you. I was not sure to post this and explain you inactivity in the thread recently, especially as you had not done so yourself or expressed the wish to do so. How are you holding up mate? We can and will sort another trip Hope all goes well and see you soon Ian It looks like alot of guys on this thread are struggling with mods or other reasons and dropping out like flies.I for one still have my uprethane bushes to swap and with only two weekends free to do it, am running scared I will not book the ferry or hotel until last minute when i'm sure to make it. The extra cost will be minimal if at all and its not a big deal to find accommodation in or around Nurburg this time of the year I will pm Gazhull about the fuel tokens and if they are valid for a couple of months then i can get them now or next trip So anyone who can make it still should just confirm so on the sunday 3rd April in this post or pm me for convoy planning etc. Anders, are you installing this yourself or a garage? It will be a miracle to finish, tune and troubleshoot and be ready for this trip if you are doing the install solo and have a fulltime job Good luck though. nice kit

You can buy direct from them or any dealer handling their products. I maybe setting up a GB with them soon just waiting for their final confirmation

chippy check: -the top 2 nuts on the rear mounts are tight -the spring is well seated in the spring carrier arm and locating into the top 3 tabs on the chassis(I had this issue after installing my HKS RS coilies ) - finally reset the coilovers by setting it to full hard on both bump and rebound and drive for a full miles and then set it to you prefered level of bump and rebound. - also check clearances and intrusions from other parts or body work etc Droplinks tend to creak but if there is too much play may knock from abnormal ARB movement One of these should pick up the issue

1. Beavis 2. martinmac 3. octet 4. Tarmac 5. ChrisS 6. Chesterfield 7. 350Russ 8. Stew 9. bladesgrant 10. JetSet 11. Sam McGoo 12. mbs 13. NeilMH 14. AK350Z 15. Bockaaarck 16. DoogyRev 17. GT4 Zed

We are going to be seeing alot of this problems as most cars are getting to that age were the mushy bushes are deteriorating to produce noticeable play. I have just started a thead to cover what everything one would need to know before deciding on the best solution to replace the bush(es) at fault. viewtopic.php?f=100&t=47058 But on thing i would say is if you track your car or it is lowered then you need to be thinking at solid bushes from SPL USA, same one Abbey now carry or urethane bush from Superpro UK, because the OEM stlye rubber will tear again due to the banana arm siting an angle when lowered rather than neutral. For normal zed then the option of using this OEM style provided by Alex is perfect and cheap to buying the whole arm new from Nissan but you could still go for Superpro urethane bush for better longevity and firmer feel.