GT4 Zed

You are the man Alex I have more ideas after doing some searches on how to tackle various parts of the job DIY and i'm forming a pretty good impression of how to go about it. I may just remove and tackle all the small suspension/control/traction arm bushes step at a time or even remove all at once and send then to you to swap the bushes (i'll supply the whitelines or SPL ) since you have the pukka nissan tools and press and DIY the diff/engine and transmission mounts on the car(as in the link below) then see how it goes. If there is still squirm/wheel hop in the rear then i'll do the subframe bushes later as this is more labour intensive I'll pm you a request of what bits i will send for bushing and you can give me quotes later DIY tackling the diff mounts install: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetra ... her-4.html DIY transmission mounts install: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetra ... unt-2.html

Thanks Alex, i was actually thinking same route: get the subframe only, replace the bushes and then do the control/traction arms etc where applicable DIY and swap the subframes at my local friendly a garage. I don't mind getting my hands dirty or taking 1-2 weeks to DIY but i need to get the right kind of bush removal and pressing tool first to reduce the pain . Can you point me to where/what to look for it! Or even better what do you use Out of interest what uprated bushes do you use?

Nice james

Happy b-day dawg

Depends if you want looks or function The 1st looks like it will produce more DF but aesthetically less pleasing but for the fact it is made of CF. The 2nd when painted will look more natural and suit the zed's lines. From a purist point of view unless you track the car the extra drag from the 1st wing will cost you fuel consumption I would overall go for the CF wing but will paint it azure like the rest of your car

Thanks guys, i'll give TGM a bell Greekman, please pm what you paid for the swap please and with whom. If they need the car for about 2 days and the price is better than around me i can come over to Hull to get it done. good opportunity to catch up on my friends there and experience your set up

I am liking the true rear coilover conversion too! Don't know why Nissan opted for the seperate arangement in the rear . This would have also saved weight on the rear. How much do the spring carrier arms weigh out of interest? Good work, very clean and methodical approach mate. It will be one hell of a sorted ride B BTW I saw the feature below a while back but could not re-find it . Thought you could have found some of the chasis/body/suspension strenghtenning ideas useful for your build....guess its late now but here you go. http://www.modified.com/features/0611sc ... to_09.html (For the record i hate their roll cage setup and reinforcements. Yours is more conventional and looks less obstrusive )

Hi Adam, thanks for the head up. I 've not heard anything bad about the SPC hence my planned choice or even moreso did I know SPL has adjustment for caster too. SPL stuff look wonderfully engineered. But someone had problems with loosing shims from these on my350z. Hopefully bad install or an isolated problem WRT the ABS issues i don't intent to run very high -ve front camber so i will not use the hub shims for extreme camber adjustment and needing to relocate the ABS sensor Infact i will still be using the -1deg 50'or 2deg I use that works well. I agree with you that you can live with the caster as it is after lowering the ride height, afterall Cusco, Ichiba etc even Moonface racing kits only provide camber adjustability. With that said I am 30mm lowered in front and the caster reading is +9.5deg (OEM range is +7deg25' to +8deg55') and with 265/30/19 tyres up front, i have alot of front end grip and high speed stability on either street or track but the downside has been mainly increased steering effort and lesser extend very quick steering wheel return. I'm not too keen on both on track so with the ability to adjust +/-1or 2 deg caster as required to get the sweet spot will be the reason i will go for SPC or SPL. You could say get rid of the tyres to cure the named issues on my setup but i am addicted to the grip, it looks good and and moreso it is purer to sort the geometry out instead Pm price for the SPL arms. I need the bushing kit too but few questions in my mind to clear. Can you mix urethane bushes with the spherical bearing type bushes? What is the life of the spherical bushes on average usage? How much NVH do these produce as compared to the urethane stuff. I'm sure others here will like to know the answers too Cheers

I am not too concerned with NVH as i already live with a K1 I spoke to Adam a while back and he said it was not too bad. You mean, uprated engine, tranny and diff mounts would give mainly more direct transmision of power down the driveline and positive gearshift changes while the rear subframe solid urethane bushes will eliminate wheel hop (OEM ones are to soft and gelfilled ..... for the comfort loving masses )

Bump

You need these adjustable camber arms if your zed is lowered to restore OEM geo or dial in any setup for your desired activity Got these from Adam Jan 2010 and fitted in April. Has not seen trackday action and done only ~4k miles - in very good condition. Selling because I want the new SPC ones which can adjust for castor(The only kit which has this ability +£400). Mind you, the factory castor is perfect but with grippy wide tyres and full adjustable suspension i can take full advantage of these and dial in more castor for more front end grip I want £275ono delivered for these Uk mainland or £250ono pick up in Midlands. It will come with new Nissan cones so is ready to swap onto the zed. I can fit it no charge if you can spare 1-2 hours Brand new On the car:

Had my MOT yesterday and had advisory on a few things i already knew about but had not had time to fit despite having the parts - Front brake disc close to legal limit. Have had disc for months now but lazy to change and wanted to keep it fresh for the start of track season - Front braided lines need additional bracket to secure . They way clear of wheels or body parts . Easy fix though have multitude of brackets that came with the Ksport BBK - One loose adjustable nut on the front OS Powergrid droplink.....picky!!? 2 minutes jobbie while doing the above. - Worn suspenson bushes: The state of my front bushes is especially bad probably due to my stiff setup and geometry setting but even worse from when i inspected them mid-late last year when i fist notice a difference. They are quite shrunken and deteriorated with some minimal play which you can only feel on slow turns but it saps confidence on all-out hooning as feedback feels vague My plan was to get Whitelines fitted all round in March before the big trip along with some other goodies but wil need to do them sooner to avoid suspension failure. My queston is, has anyone changed their bushes to uprated ones? how hard a task? how long? how much and where? I will want to get also transmission, diff and engine mounts sameime if possible Is there any UK manufacturer making complete bushing kit for the zed? I spoke to Powerflex at Autosports last year and they did not do the zed then. I will also be putting up a few preowned parts for sale including these Ichiba front camber A arms (well under 1 year old):

Yup, looks like geometry is way off. I suspect both camber and toe You do not need nissan unless you just had the car and its still under warranty from them and this is covered. Go to any reputed alignment place in your area and get a full 4 wheel geo back to factory settings. I presume your car is standard and not lowered There is a post with hese settings somewhere here if not i can put them out FYI.

+1 Even mileage adjusted i don't see running a shed cheaper! You have to understand that apart from the cost of having a shed, the time off the zed is a hidden cost You bought it in the first place to use it and enjoy it. This becomes nominal when you are always in the shed so you are then just paying for depreciation with no "return" by means enjoyment/satisfaction. That my friends is the biggest cost I will drive my zed daily until i can afford the R35 which will be driven daily too! My OH has a sensible car for shopping and family duties and thats the short if it On the other hand, if i could'nt afford performance motoring anymore i will just downgrade to something that will give me satisfaction and yet be a downgrade as well. simples!

Got the vailiant ecotec plus 937 ~ 37KW Its a monster and since install almost 2 years ago I have no complaints. Efficient(SEDBUK "A" rated)............super quiet..............Hot water on demand..........very good pressure/flow...........reduced gas bills and the best part is the IR remote thermostat which i can move from room to room to adjust individual room temps Has scaled all the maintainance checks no sweat so far. Expensive to buy and install but will pay for itself in longterm. I Highly recommend

niceeeeeeee

Lucky b%@tard Get some got shots or vids and post your impressions James for the rest of us who have not been blessed with this privilege sofar

You've got an LSD which is a viscous type LSD as opposed to the mechanical types.(clutch or gear type. clutch types are more popular) The VLSD is great for general use but becomes overwhelmed on prolonged aggressive track use and if you intend to do drifting then you need a 2way mechanical type LSD or for the perfect track spec car a 1.5 way item. The Quaife ATB LSD (torque biasing)comes highly rated for general use and track work in terms of smooth unobstrusive of operation, life time waranty and zero maintenance. Most of the others Nismo, ATS cusco are noisy and not smooth and will require maintenance eventually and diff oil change. There are pros and cons for all LSDs and also many sub-variants eg torque sensing or torque biasing etc so you need to identify what you are after or stick with the VLSD. I think most Uk zeds have the VSLD except for the non-GT spec variants(open diffs) but someonne will confirm shortly

Hi Anthony Do listen to the words of wisdom offered ~300bhp FWHP RWD is a very different kettle of fish from ~230FWHP FWD. Save up and get one asap and then decide what you need to do to improve a very accomplished car to start with. Its not only about power but what you want from it will make a huge difference. ie drifting, fast road, trackday weapon or allround A to B car. For example, I went for the track route and also spent close to 3K to get NA power and ended with 270WHP(316FWHP) from 250WHP But the greatest improvement worth 50BHP IMHO was a big brake kit, wider wheels with grippier rubber and full suspension upgrade. As a result, i have sold off most of my NA mods except the plenum spacer and header back 3" exhaust (as i felt it was too much dosh tied down for 20WHP). If i were to make a natural progression with my mods it will be to upgrade bushes and mounts all round, get a 3.9-4.08 FD and 1.5 LSD and a single carbon clutch and lightflywheel and finish it off with UPrev remap But if money was no object for me and knowing what i know now i will do all of the mods i have sofar plus the above, add some track safety and enhancement stuff(lighten, race seats , roll cage, oill cooler etc), Ikeya formula sequen shifter and go for full NA power with a 4-4.2 stroker kit with forged internals, cams etc aiming for 350-380FWHP(Circa 400FWHP) - It will cost similar to FI build but more reliable, higher revs and more usable power in all kinds of driving requirements So you will see that things will change when you finally get a zed. It maybe you may just want cosmetic enhancements or sharpen up the response with Uprev or piggy back ecu or just leave it as it is and use the saved dosh to enjoy the car thoroughly

to good health Mike happy birthday

24/34mpg???!!! Attak you must have had a very different zed or just Miss daisy-ing at the wheel I see 19mpg/27mpg urban and motorway and see 9-16mpg on track, not that i really look I have seen 45mpg going down hill in traffic coasting Anyway, all your questions have been covered so go and have fun and start to plan your mods

c'mon lads it could happen to the best of us lets welcome him with open hands do introduce yourself in the noob section and some pics of your beast will be nice

It should be fine to remove m8. I can't tell from the pics which bit this is and its a while i did mine, but i removed all the OEM shields as the were rusted or rattling with the K1 and its been fine for over 1.5yrs