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Everything posted by GT4 Zed
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Advice required from you suspension guru's please!
GT4 Zed replied to shire350Z's topic in Suspension
Missed the point slightly mate. Coilovers will not fix a poorly aligned car But once all is said and done and he decides to go for uprated suspension i think your coilovers offer a lot for the money without a shadow of a doubt BTW are these developed specificall for the zed? i wish i knew about this before selling my HKS RS coilies for KW var 3 What are the spring rates and level of adjustability? -
Who did you use ? I'm a bit frightened of a DIY result too ... no comeback on that is there I have some bad scratches too on my windscreen after using an abrasive cloth to removed some stuborn tar deposits its quite bad in the night and was planning to give autogalss a call via my insurance claiming it was cracked or vandalised but i will try the T-cut glass and if that fails will give the pros a call Shout out if you go this route straight away so we know the results and prices
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After inventoring my garage which is full of used zed parts so I've decide to put them for sale. Going later on fleabay so chance for a bargain. Offers or firm interest should be registered by pm or post. First come first server All items in good condition Zed stuff - Rear OEM droplinks (front sold) £20 del - Full set of Zed damper and springs from late 2005 zed. £300 del - OEM rear upper and lower spring seat rubbers £40 del - Front OEM front A camber arms with new lower ball joint seat £100 del - Rear OEM camber arms £30 del - Rear OEM toe bolt £20 del - clear side markers (< 2006) £35 del SOLD - OEM y -pipe £35 - OEM catback Exhaust £75 - Tow hook (New) from recent GB £45 del SOLD - OEM bonnet in kuro black £150 del - OEM kuro black GT spoiler £40 del - OEM boot tonneau divider (with all fittings) £75 SOLD - OEM radiator hoses £20 del - OEM boot privacy tonneau cover £30 del - OEM Antenna £20 del - OEM front and rear (?thicker) GT4 anti-roll bars with bushes £75 del - OEM radiator and oil cap £20 del - OEM black sideskirts £80 del - 1 week old custom RSZ diffuser £150(pick up)(cost £250 new)( getting a bigger/longer race version for track days for even more downforce ) - OEM Nissan badge - can painted either a choice of gloss or matt black if required for free (See badge below) £30 del - New custom diffuser (X 5) (finished in back gel coat. just need bonding or bolted-on unless you want to paint it to your bodycolour) £200 each or £190 GB - < 2006 Zed RSW CF dash trim kit(On exchange basis with relevant trim pieces only) £250 del SOLD Small crack which can be glued down and laquered easily(not very obvious when center trim installed) - Turbo xs Utec piggy back ECU (with switchable optimised maps for intake and exhaust mods) £390 del http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1602 - OEM locking nuts x4 for Rays or any OEM Z33 wheels with key. £30 delivered.
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And lowering if i may add Will take the fezza anytime though in Black please
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i got muteki extended open wheel nuts from Adam @ z-1 but try this link for nuts franging from +£100 - £48. the last two may interest you : http://www.unit-8.co.uk/acatalog/Wheels.html
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You dirty scoundrel Ian I knew you were up to something with that smirk for sometime now Smashing bit of kit mate and good choice of ancillaries to go with it Looking forward to the finished article but it the maintime keep the build fotos and gist comming
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+1 Hi Ian, If there is something you know about them then i think we ought to know as i only heard good about them, have talked/dealt with them and even about to order some bits and bobs from them so it will be nice to share rather than make such a strong statement and
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Welcome Glenn. Very good choice of wheels. Always liked them black on an R34 GTR but is suits the zed very nicely too Regarding spacers and lowering, the Eiback kit is the best spacer/spring kit out there. It claims up to 30mm drop but in real life you get 20-25mm so you will be fine and always need to negotiate bumps carefully anyway The system 4 spacers is you want system and i am pretty sure the ET is 35 both axles which is not brilliant You need at least 20mm spacers in both front and rear But the only way to tell for sure what ET they have is to look in the inside of the wheel spoke, it is usually stamped there also with the wheel size Or if lazy then measure the wheel arch tyre gap and that gives you how much leeway you have give or take a little more to account for negative camber when the car is lowered.
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Hi Matt, very exciting times ahead with this build As mentioned already my350z.com is a very good resource on high powered forged engined zed. You should have a word with the guys at GT motosports who are well known and even make their highly rated stuff and have their own turnkey power packages http://www.gtmotorsports.com Good luck with the build and keep us posted
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Never heard one before or know anyone with one, but the clips/website is catchy and looks like the know what they are doing. Good price for y-pipe and exhaust comparable to japspeed. But all exhaust sound nice on clips and its always a good idea to listen to them live before choosing if possible. Go for it so long as there is no bad feedback on them
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Nice
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Thought you were going for a scorpion mate
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Advice required from you suspension guru's please!
GT4 Zed replied to shire350Z's topic in Suspension
Your talking about almost the size of a hair mate thats why they have a tollerence. Your car needs a degree of camber as it changes height depending on how you give it some beans and also how you go into corners. Also, as your on 19's is going to be a tad different to 18" stock and you are slightly lowered so the stock rear toe and camber adjustment may be on its limit for bringing it back in. Same with the front as there is little adjustment on the A-Arms. The reading isnt going to really help you, you just need to make a decision on which way you want to go and just get the parts installed for a better ride!! I disagree with you on this Mark The facts are that James has lowered his car and is running wide tyres and there is no argument about the fact that his geometry is out How can he decide to get parts when he doesn't know what is out or in or waay out? His main objective is to get the car to handle like it was before the changes ie stock and it is posible that with the small degree of adjustment OEM setup apart from the front camber everything can be brought back into specs. If there is not enough adjustment then he will have to get the part needed to get the into specs. He is not looking for track/race car handling which will certainly need uprated adjustable parts If he desides so at some point or now it is still important for him to undersatand what does what rather than just spend money and not achieve the handling characteristics he is after. The stock setup gives a good handling thats among one of the best balanced out there and unless you have specific requirements for the car there is usually no need to try and change ior improve it. Secondly, yes there is a range for each set up and it means that within this spectrum the car will handle within the manufacturers aimed characteristics which in a nutshell is safe high speed stability and understeer. However you have to mirror the settings closely on each side of the same axle and also aim for the synergy between front and rear by having a thrust angle or total toe of around 0deg if not you have will have issues. Even with fully adjustable suspension parts you can have the same issues if the setup is not right -
Really good pics! Like the subtle black V1 spoiler mod Note to polish k1
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Your money or your life
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I think putting up the printout of the alignment before and after will be a good idea as some of the alignment chaps donot have a clue There is no such thing as "everso slightly" especially with Toe which has a very small range. Also on each axle you want to match the settings as close as posible within the nearest seconds rather than minutes As Mark said "saggy" suspension is a different kettle of fish and may imply the damper is gone or going but it will not explain tire wear and at 20k i doubt its the issue. Toe is the biggest culprit dynamically and camber over time.
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D1 controller without a shadow of a doubt However heres a full list modding on a budget IMHO -new & used Looks: LED bulb upgrade in and out( parking lights, interior dome, boot and number plate) Detango all repeaters with silvertec bulbs Remove red fog light reflector and replace bulb with LED Replace OEM 4100K xenon with 6000k items for modern look 20mm hubcentric spacers all round lowering on Eibachs pro-springs(optional) Zmanalex chicken grill zed badges Performance: Upgrade performance filter D1 spec throttle controller or Uprev (optional) cat back exhaust K1, K2 or scorpion(optional) Upgrade pads. eg Ferodos DS2500 Lots of V power and cleaning products ..............not an option
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Good work mate I can't wait to see you do the whole car for le Mans
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Advice required from you suspension guru's please!
GT4 Zed replied to shire350Z's topic in Suspension
Step in the right direction mate As discussed it is imperative that when you adjust a car's static ride height the is car properly aligned. The goal is to bring total front and rear toe settings to 0°, as toe is the major contributor to abnormally increased rate of tire wear. The common misconception is that camber causes increased rate of tire wear, when in fact camber's contribution to tire wear is usually only visible over the entire life of the tire. The factory settings aim to give you a very stable car in straight line with inherent understeer and good grip when cornering AFAIK: Front Camber range between -0.10 and -1.20 deg.(Not ajustable) Toe range: 0.00 to 0.05 degrees. Rears Cambered -1.05 to -2.05 range Toe:0.03 to 0.06 Lets see what you full geo printout comes up with -
Don't even think twice about it Any side wall dammage is serious and renders a tyre ilegal too You will have to get replacements I had similar about a month ago and there was still 6mm of thread on the tyre
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Very nice what about the fronts? 20mm maybe
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Bump See my post on page 2 for a tentative trip plan and on page 3 for estimated cost if you were to spend 3 nights and do 25 laps As stated already departure is planned for friday 28th of May and return bank holiday monday 31th. i will start a seperate thread at the end of this month and request interested parties to put their names down or confirm they are likely going to make it! Please remove your names if not. From April i will begin to collect a small deposit to secure hotel and ferry booking 1-GT4 zed-------------------------------- May bank holiday or any other group date 2-ZedJohn ------------------------------- May bank holiday. Relatively flexible with holidays. 3-Sleg----------------------------------- May bank hloiday. 4-Glenn 1981----------------------------- May bank holiday is good for me! 5-Captain--------------------------------85% sure 6-?Roo 7-?Wizard 8-?Anubis 9-?swooper 10-Rob-Hughes-----------------------------Can't make it 11-?Thomasorenson 12-Andlid----------------------------------Unsure
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would like to know this too Hi Ben, longtime mate There will be a very slight improvement of sprint time but due to the weight and gearing to get a significant drop in time then you need more power or cheaply drastically reduce weight or change final drive at the expense of top speed or improve on your lanch technique which is equally important or just get a quicker 0-60 car
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yup, thats right too! Its all about product placing, emissions, reliability/longevity and much more . Nissan has to cater for all needs which is why uprev, D1 and every aftermarket manufacturer or tuners make a killing. You also have to account that drive by wire is a bit laggy unlike cable connected throttle which controls throttle electronically through pedal position sensors. Unfortunately slow response makes the car difficult and unpleasurable to drive. The D1 controls the voltage signal of the pedal and adjust the throttle to be more or less sensitive giving you can set up faster throttle response for a quick lauch or driving and even set slower throttle response for economy. IMHO for anyone not wanting to break the bank and wants to improve performance will keeping everything standard then this is a must because why else buy exhaust , CAIs etc if you will not make then work better with a remap
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I have to aggree with Fiddy there are too many issues and with a better fit and in piano plack finish without the zed logo it will look But what matters it that you like it