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evest

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Posts posted by evest

  1. Not sure mate - from what I can see on Google it looks like the sensor is next to the horns so should be easy to get to with bumper off. Should just unclip/unbolt. May be best to check the factory service manual if you have one. If not, PM me your email address.

  2. I think you can reset the airbag light but if the sensor is faulty the light will keep coming back and be an MOT fail. Plus of course it's best to make sure that sensor is working in case the worst happens...

     

    But there is no sensor in the bumper itself - not sure where it us but somebody else will know. Did the guy explain what he had done?

  3. Actually I reckon that is more likely - doubtful that stiff hinges would hold up the whole bonnet and then also prevent you from easily lifting it. Perhaps something got stuck in there when you had it open?

  4. Had my tyres replaced today at an F1 Autocentre - MPSS all round and alignment done. Before I start, I'll say that the guys in there seemed pretty sound, treated my car with respect and care and I believe that this was a case of somebody making a genuine (but serious) mistake. I waited while they did the work and they certainly did not seem to be rushing (meant in a good way).

     

    Pulled away... felt good...

     

    Entered dual carriageway... fine... Got past 50mph... slight rumble, maybe the road? Got just past 70mph - okay major noise/juddering, coming up through the seat - definitely not the road! Alignment out - no, just been done and got the print out... Flat tyre (brand new!), got out and checked - nope...

     

    Suspect wheel nuts not tightened. Not far from home so managed to crawl back to the driveway (had taken my boot tool kit out of the car last week for the first time in 6 years... in hindsight probably not very sensible) and I could literally take the rear nuts of with my fingers!!! :scare: :scare:

     

    Having torqued them up, I actually then drove back to the tyre place to report it - not trying get anything off them, but they need to know it had happened - as a near miss - so it doesn't happen again with worse consequences. To be fair, the boss was extremely apologetic and said that the lad who did the job had recalled not doing them and was genuinely very upset about it. Sort of felt sorry for him as he was a nice lad and had really taken his time with my wheels so as not to damage them and had even checked the correct torque settings for the nuts with me (don't see that very often).

     

    I'll get some vouchers in the post they said, but I probably could've pressed for some moeny back - I'm too laid back for my own good!

     

    What have I learnt from this - carry a tool kit I guess... :blush:

  5. I'm on 143K. No real issues mate. Had one new clutch, both window motors and a rocker cover. Replaced all suspension and diff bushes, but those do wear out with time and miles.

    Still got excellent compression all round a no excessive oil consumption. Been cleaned lots too!

    • Like 1
  6. The earlier engines are potentially a little bit gruntier lower down whereas the later engines provided more horsepower and torque across the range. The HR was nearly a completely new engine so different redline part of the overall design.

     

    Your plenum spacer and other mods will provide more power but only with the benefit of a custom remap to tune the engine. Plenty of dyno evidence of the improvements available on here.

    I doubt it's a good idea to increase the DE rev range by too much as it wasn't designed for it and how often do you drive in the 6000-7000 range on the road? IMO best to maximise potential in the existing rev range to ensure you don't knacker your engine. Good luck!

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