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Posts posted by evest
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Aye, 10 years now, 45K miles when I got her. 159K now and still pulls like a train. Always just makes me very happy. Keeper.
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Still got the nostril but I don't know if there is much, if any power gain, but I guess it can't hurt to get cold air in the airbox (which I refitted for performance over bling...)
Eyelids..... went colour match after a while, much better look (I actually hate that top picture now!!) I've now got rid completely though as didn't like the idea of blocking part of the headlamp.
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I'll take it please mate! PM on its way
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Thanks davey_83. I've done as you suggested and it seems to have solved my problem - now idling at 1200ish cold, and no cut out at roundabouts either, so good man!
I feel a little foolish for having ruled this out but at least the problem is solved. Will keep close eye on it over the next few weeks anyhow.
Cheers bud
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Hello all,
I've read though a few threads with similar problems but can't pin this down and want to investigate further before throwing new parts at it. Anybody had/seen the same issue?
Car:
350Z DE '03 plate, 147K miles
Problem:
Car starts (cold) and goes to normal revs but then almost immediately the revs dip and bounce around at low level. After a 5 seconds or so, the engine revs go back up to the correct level (albeit with very small fluctuations). After another 10 seconds or so, it drops back to low levels, struggles and eventually stalls. Even if I open the throttle to increase revs, the response is not instant but it will then start to raise the revs to the level I determine. However, when releasing the throttle the revs will drop back to idle setting briefly before dying away again and stalling the engine.
I've also had the engine cut out at low revs when coming to a normal stop. Otherwise drives normally. No EML or fault codes stored.
Recent work:
New oil sump fitted (by me) with top up of correct oil. Coolant changed. Uprev about 6 months ago.
Other things:
Stock '06 airbox fitted with clean filter.
MAF looks clean.
Throttle body cleaned out a couple of months ago.
Battery is fine and holding standard charge.
Fluids all seem fine.
Running Shell V-power, plenty of fuel in tank (possibly bad batch of fuel? But seems unlikely)
Spark plugs changed about 5000 miles ago (I haven't checked them recently but no reason to suspect they're faulty).
I had an O2 sensor issue a while back, but cleaned the sensor and have no further problems or fault codes since.
Not sure whether this is a fuelling issue or sensor related. I've had the same issue before but it has usually gone away after a day or two and not repeated for several weeks.
Any help much appreciated!
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Welcome to the forum mate :-)
Will have a used Cobra up for sale soon bud, watch out for the ad in the trading post!
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Well start with a compression test - easy to do yourself and the kit is only about £25 (gunson compression tester). May as well combine with a spark plug change if they're due... you could always put leak down test in the wanted section to see if any other zedders nearby can help?
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It's up to you but a complete engine overhaul done properly will be expensive and no point replacing parts if there's nowt wrong with them. I reckon at least start with investigating where the oil is going and take it from there mate... Get a leak down test done and see what crops up.
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That's a good testament to the VQ engine, hopefully I'll fare just as well!
Well I had the UpRev at Abbey Motorsport today and my car did pretty well considering the age/mileage. Many thanks to Mark and the team for the warm welcome, tea and toast, and of course the results!
(Thanks also to Chris at TarmacSportz for getting the new 'zorst to me in time to fit it yesterday ready for the trip to Abbey
Model: 2004 GT VQ35DE (144,232 miles)
Mods: Berks HFCs, Invidia Gemini cat-back, Motordyne 5/16 Plenum spacer, '06 Airbox with Apexi filter, AMS lightweight pulleys.
Dyno: Dynapack (Abbey Motorsport)
BHP: 262.4 WHP (+20.4)
Torque: 232.8 flbs (+18.9)
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Have a look here - might be useful. Different options out there but just think about what is cost effective. Good luck!
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What mileage is it and are you having any problems with the car mate? Shouldn't be necessary to rebuild it unless you're loosing lots of power/oil etc...
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UpRev at Abbey Motorsport today. Many thanks to Mark and the team for the warm welcome, tea and toast, and of course the results!
(Thanks also to Chris at TarmacSportz for getting the new 'zorst to me in time to fit it yesterday ready for the trip to Abbey
Model: 2004 GT VQ35DE (144,232 miles)
Mods: Berks HFCs, Invidia Gemini cat-back, Motordyne 5/16 Plenum spacer, '06 Airbox with Apexi filter, AMS lightweight pulleys.
Dyno: Dynapack (Abbey Motorsport)
BHP: 262.4 WHP (+20.4)
Torque: 232.8 flbs (+18.9)
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yea its got APS decats fittedYou running hfc's too?
Oh yeah just re-read the 1st post! You could always try it with no back box to get a rough idea! Not too early in the morning though...
Good luck but I reckon be sure before you hack it up mate.
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You running hfc's too?
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Do they mention what sort of volume they're getting? Don't know about the tone you'll get but surely taking out the muffler is going to give you plenty of noise but this could be an MOT fail? IMHO you'd be better off selling your Miltek and getting a system that suits your needs as it comes mate. Otherwise you might be left with a franken-zorst that you don't like!
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OK - just seems too much of a coincidence that both cats would go like this just after you got the car and changed fuel. Perfect opportunity to upgrade to some HFC's...?
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Note - this is for earlier 350Z models but I would expect torque settings to be similar.
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What's the mileage. Just thinking it might be dirty O2 sensors causing an error code to appear. I had error code so cleaned the O2 sensors and have had nothing since.
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You
Dont have any info on the brand but we're they a tight fit going in? Re-check all nuts are done up to spec mate, they can loosen a little after load.
Where to find specs for these nuts?
Factory service manual if you have one. PM me if not and i'll send you the file
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What code are you getting?
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Dont have any info on the brand but we're they a tight fit going in? Re-check all nuts are done up to spec mate, they can loosen a little after load.
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Do you know where it's coming from? Where you based?
Edit: oh yeah! London/Surrey area. Doh!
BNIB 350z Rear discs OPEN TO OFFERS ON DISCS. I HAVE THESE ON MY ZED .
in 350z Parts For Sale
Posted
For those interested - pic of splitter - I think it is the exact same model, if not very similar. This is dry-fit to my car (not painted, etc...) - haven't got round to fitting it properly either! Seems a very good fit.. As you can see - it is for pre-facelift, so not sure it would fit the later facelift models.