Bundus

Wow thanks so much for all the tips guys. That link to Sarnies post was awesome and has given me some great ideas. Im even more excited now. Been online and found out that I can skydive over the Nevada desert - awesome. Will also be doing all the Stratosphere rides over and over again lol. Cheers guys - Ill be sure to get a load of pics and vids while Im out there. Just out of interest what would be a good daily budget? Im planning to gamble but that wont be most of my money - Im more interested in doing activities, tours and adventures.

Just wanted to share my excitement that I am off to Vegas this Friday and wondered if anyone had some tips on some really exciting things to do? Im a big gambler and I know pretty much where to go for the best games. I also know about all the usual stuff (stratosphere rides, dancing fountains etc) so what Im really after is some advice that you wouldnt read in the books from people who have been. Where did you find were the best places to eat, drink and generally live it up? Any cool tips for fitting in and enjoying the real Vegas rather then spending my 4 days looking like a tourist and hanging out in all the same places as everyone else who has read the rough guide? Im a massive thrill seeker so if anyone can recommend any high adrenaline, once in a lifetime activities that would be great.

Yeah you can basically bypass the loom altogether if you know which wire is which. Hopefully someone will provide you a diagram. The only reason for the loom is to make the headunit compatible with the car and make for an easy plug and play. I know a lot of people that never buy ISO boxes - they just cut and splice the wires into the correct wire coming from the car. Hope you get it sorted mate - looking forward to seeing some progress photos!

Im trying to get all the bits together to fit my KW V3 suspension and one part in question is the rubber cones that are used when fitting the standard rear springs. See link http://students.washington.edu/nguyenh6 ... Precut.jpg Does anyone know if I need to re-use this part when fitting the KW's or do they get removed? There are 4 rubber bits in total (2 as in the link and 2 smaller ones) Are any or all of these things necessary when fitting the V3's? Reason I ask is that Im not sure if I already have them on my car as it has HKS suspension on there at the moment. The HKS has different top mounts so I think it may have different or no rubber cones at all. I would take a look but the car is away being worked on. I have access to another set of rubbers but I need to act fast and I dont want to buy them if they are not needed on the KW's. Any help would be great. Cheers guys.

Whoops didnt realise this was a 2 pager before I replied. I guess my post is a little late now

1) Required - 7 x 8" subs - (Any brand recommendations / product?) Audiobhan comes to mind for the bling factor since thats obviously a big factor in a set up like this 2) Appropriate Amplifier to power 7 subs (Will this power the speakers based on questions 3 and 4) Youll need to take into account the Ohm rating of the subs and amp and weather you are wiring them in series or in paralell. Its a simple enough process to follow - this link will help you http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html Its all about impedence - if you are running more subs then there are channels on the amp then the impedence will change and affect the rms of each sub. An amp would be rated say 1000RMS x 2 at 4ohm or 2000RMS x 2 at 2 ohm. Before you buy the kit you need to calculate how to get the most RMS out of it buy buying the subs at the correct OHM rating to compliment your amp and how you plan to wire it up (series or paralell. 3) Advise on whether to replace / upgrade or remove speakers behind seats? You may as well upgrade them. You can get a nice set for not too much money and if youve stripped the whole car is no extra effort to fit them and amp them up. 4) Advise on whether to replace / upgrade or remove door speakers. A must. 5) Headunit advise - looking for DVD touchscreen with pre-amps (possibly sat nav) mp3 / IPOD interface etc. I've just got a new parrot car kit with IPOD connevtivity that doesn't interface with the BOSE so hoping to reuse with new headunit. (its the parrot nki9100) I would also really lick to retain the steering wheel controls if possible. So many options but the Kenwood one is a favourite Think its the 7200 or something? You can get one for around £600 - no need to spend a grand here. 6) Battery upgrade - should this be required and what should i buy? You can do - get a yellow top or one thats higher power - Also a power capacitor is essential otherwise your headlights will dip when you are cranking the system (amongst other power problems). A capacitor runs in between the power and the system and stores a large charge to kick out when the system needs it so the car doesnt suffer. 7) Sound deadning - Dynamat comes to mind but can i buy this in bulk in the UK or perhaps someone might know somewhere in the Ireland? Buy "brown bread" as its cheaper in bulk - use fleabay. 8) Wiring and cooling for the amp - i plan on mounting a number of fans to cool the amp but not sure what way would be best for air circulation, i'll post a diagram of this along with the box unit i'm getting built. I would avoid fans as the noise of them will be annoying at best. Its also not necessary as long as the top of your amps where the heat escapes is not covered. As for wiring expect one hell of a shock when you get the bill. It can be one of the most expensive aspects. Youll need distribution blocks for the power cable, plenty of speaker, power, earth and RCA cabling, a power cap, terminal covers, fuse block or even better circuit breaker...... I spent over £200 on mine as I wanted flat cables and high quality and that was just for one 3 amps, 2 subs and the 4 speakers - I wanted an amp for each sub and a 4 channel one for the speakers. Hope thats been some help to you mate - cant wait to see it and dont change from your plan, it will be a great show car install.

Thanks guys - if only it sounded as nice when driving. Dont get me wrong it still sounds awesome but that metal sound at the peak revs is apparent throughout the rev range when putting your foot down hard on the road. I may still try changing my centre pipe back to my other one but Im not deterred lol. Still love the sound.

Well I finally got around to making a video clip of my exhaust sound. My set-up is: Plenum Spacer Nismo Y Pipe Cutom made unsilenced centre section Amuse Titan R1 Back Box Funnily enough the reason I wanted to post the video was for suggestions on eliminating the rattling sound when accelerating - but the noise doesnt seem to happen when depressing the pedal when stationary. Its only noticable when actually accelerating. Also it does sound a little deeper in the flesh but the vid is a pretty good representation. http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23 ... V01503.flv

Yeah couldnt agree with you more mate. An increas in noise is a bonus and a decrease in power is a loss but if the bonus from noise increase outweighs the loss in power then its a fair trade off (as long as were not talking losing considerable power of course) I have my vid done now so will post it up shortly.

Welcome back matey. Hope you had a great time. looking forward to sending my lights off to you for the transplant - cant wait to get them on the car. Hope you had a wicked new year.

It seems that there will definitely be a loss then from what people have said but how noticeable is that for a normal spirited driver? Unless Im going out on a track trying to beat lap times I dont think I would even notice the loss. As long as I can put my foot down, feel my head fly back and smile at the lovely exhaust note then Im happy Id also like to think that any loss from the unsilenced centre section is negated by my plenum spacer, hi flow cats and nismo y-pipe - although with most of this stuff the placebo effect is most likely bigger then any actual gains.

May be a while before Andrew gets back to you as he is taking a well deserved break. Many people on the forum recommend the JWT Popcharger so if Andrew has any of those left then snap one up and you wont go wrong

had a couple of recomendations for craigs plates now. I think Ill order from them but just order normal plates and go with the 3m tape route. Thanks for the help guys.

ahh... why didnt you say.. you are forgiven Only when I can afford them but they are definitely in the pipeline

Nice one cheers mate. Ill get some spare plates made and stick them down. Does the 3m tape damage the paint on removal? Did you find out about the suspension and anti roll bar fitting mate? Cheers.

Can anyone recommend a website where I can order a stick on plate. Im not sure what route im taking for the numberplate once the new kit goes on but I think this will buy me some time (and at least get me home) before I consider any drilling. Thanks in advance.

Id like to go 20's at some point too just for the summer and the shows. Ive not really made my mind up on Chrome yet but I would say that if you like it do it - its all personal choice, just be prepared that some wont like them and some will go as far as to slate them but at the end of the day thats their opinion just as buying the chrome wheels was yours. This is my choice for when I can afford 20's - 5Ziegen 5ZR's

Yeah I was told the same. I must admit its been on a few weeks now and its a lot more stable in that the rasping is dying down (but still very present when flooring it) but it hasnt got any deeper (it was ludicrously deep to start with). I had my backboxes on there from the start and its only since doing the centre section, cats and y pipe that its become so deep. Since you already have the centre done Id suggest that the cats are the next step towards your goal. Once I get the video up youll be able to judge better mate.

Did you get a video of it yet? Mine used to make a kind griding noise when cold but it was due to the y-pipe rubbing against something. I never noticed any power loss when I cut mine out. I will be cutting out the silencer on my greddy exhaust when I get chance aswell Im a nightmare mate and still havent got the video done. Ill do one tomorrow night as Im at home and will post it up once its done. The sound is awesome at low revs or even at higher revs as long as its steady acceleration - its so deep and loud its actually saving me money as I dont need to floor it to get the grin on my face. If I accelerate at full speed then the rasp does annoy somewhat. Ill let you guys judge when the video goes up. Based on the sound clip posted Id say its your call. If you like the noise, the popping and the tone of it then go for it mate. Some will not want to risk performance but if your like me and not totally performance oriented then go for it. One thing I would say is be weary of the rasping. Im going to refit my standard centre section and see if that gets rid of my rattle. If it doesnt then Ill know the unsilenced centre section isnt to blame. Id definitely suggest having a new one made rather then stripping the silencer out of your current one. It cost more (mine was £150) but it allows the freedom to revert back upon resale.

Do you have hi flow cats on there or an aftermarket y pipe? I only ask because I did the same thing as you recently and mine is quite a different sound. I had a place near me make a stainless steel unsilenced centre section but I had it done at the same time as fitting Kinetix cats and Nismo Y pipe. I still have the similar popping but mine is much deeper. Only problem I have is that it makes a resonating sound like metal flapping about. Ive been told that this could be the cats themselves. Someone I know who fitted hi-flows had the same crappy sound and couldnt get rid of it - its so frustrating as im embarassed to go full throttle as it sounds like its going to fall off lol. I know that a lot of mods to the zed dont increase performance but mine feels more powerful now - although Im guessing thats just the placebo effect of all the extra noise Im no power monger and I never push the car as hard as it can go. For me its all about the looks, handling and the noise so im more then happy with the unsilenced centre section and I havent noticed any power drop.

Hey Jas. Thanks for the pm. I have the fronts and Im hoping to get the rears off Adam on here. Ill let you know if I run into any troubles. Cheers mate.

Alex if you do have them and are willing to separate them from the stock shocks please do let me know. Ill take them in a shot. Thanks mate. Thanks for looking Adam. Nissan said the fronts were easy to get so I'll happily take the rears off you if Alex isnt able to find his full set (or doesnt want to split them from the shocks) Looks like I may get there in the end - was seriously thinking I'd have to reconsider my suspension choice. Thanks so much for all the help guys, I really appreciate it

Im crossing every body part Adam. Let me know if you do have them - that would be awesome!

The HKS kit thats on my car at the moment has aftermarket top mounts - knowing my luck it will be the only kit that does it so Ill have to get the standard ones (not totally against that but its a lot of money for what is essentially a big nut and bolt). Im waiting on a response from KW so I'll see how that pans out but I think you are right. Dropped him a pm - cheers mate.

In relation to my other thread here http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18329 I want to fit my new KW suspension but I need the standard suspension top mounts to do this. I dont have them as mine were switched out for HKS before I bought the car (HKS has its own top mounts that do not fit the KW's) So basically what I need is someone who has fitted aftermarket suspension that came with new top mounts. Money waiting for your old ones so please let me know asap if you have your old suspension lying around and have the original top mounts there too. Cheers.