andlid

sweet where you drunk taking the photos though? Would be interested to see what / how you did the sub enclosure. Did you enclose anything behind the seats?

I'd say closer to 504hp... with 20% difference...

Don't do the first one...

Amazing figures, is that what you'll leave her running with? Well done to you for going ahead with this and doing most of it yourself and a big applaud for Abbey taking it on on their side! Can't wait for the dyno graph to see where the torq starts! Keep the oil new and don't fill up in a cowboy garage!

you'd twist it on the track either way have you driven this car over say 60mph? How did it feel if you did? will RAC do a laser check to see if the chassi is straight? If it's not straight I'm wondering how it didnt become a right off (class D i think you guys call it), dont worry until bad news has been give (if they will be given). And I can understand what stress you might have gone through for 1 year of hassle but see it from the bright side you got a Z!!!!

complain !! track it

pm me if you want me to check the lappie specs

just keep it as a track tool

Don't want the thread to turn into a debate, and I agree with most of the good advice. I just want to add my experience into this as it maybe helpfull.. I wouldn't want to pass 20hz to a sub, it's very low and uses a lot of energy unnecessarily - and worse it can damage the sub. Most good amps / head units have a specific filter built in to stop very low frequencies in addition to a low pass filter to take out the higher frequecies (effectively creating a band pass). I would prefer to pass >35Hz to the sub and tune it lower with the port (assuming is not a sealed enclosure). I have a 12" JL which will produce audio down to around 25Hz, but it's the port that creates the frequencies lower than 40Hz, not the woofer. Also, 100Hz is in the directional audio range, i would hpf around <80Hz to avoid messing up the front sound stage. But then it does depend on the slope of the filter to quite a large extent. Just my experiences #I stand corrected that's higher tech stuff that I don't know about so jacr, use this guy to build your system doh Only kidding, glad to advise where i can. I'm no expert but i've been around car audio for a good while. I took no offence mate I just know the basics thats all

Hadnt thought of that, Watch out for the team doing a lot of selling soon. We wouldnt have thought of it - but now we have

mmm nice helmet whats the number on the strap (if any) for year of manufacture.

I'm trying to get something well sounding but stealthy enough and dont want to weigh down the car to much with dynamat works etc. Thought some quick 8s would be better then 6.5s but if it's not worth it as you say then a good set of 6.5s will be cool. Have my eyes on a decent 5channel amp that would be good enough to power 4*6.5" and one 10", would have the amp in the enclousure behind the seat where org sub is and the other enclousure would have a mini pc install.

Excellent news +1, sorry though that it had to be a burden for the mods

food for thought, thanks

no photos of a bitch fest! epic rule failure

Don't want the thread to turn into a debate, and I agree with most of the good advice. I just want to add my experience into this as it maybe helpfull.. I wouldn't want to pass 20hz to a sub, it's very low and uses a lot of energy unnecessarily - and worse it can damage the sub. Most good amps / head units have a specific filter built in to stop very low frequencies in addition to a low pass filter to take out the higher frequecies (effectively creating a band pass). I would prefer to pass >35Hz to the sub and tune it lower with the port (assuming is not a sealed enclosure). I have a 12" JL which will produce audio down to around 25Hz, but it's the port that creates the frequencies lower than 40Hz, not the woofer. Also, 100Hz is in the directional audio range, i would hpf around <80Hz to avoid messing up the front sound stage. But then it does depend on the slope of the filter to quite a large extent. Just my experiences #I stand corrected that's higher tech stuff that I don't know about so jacr, use this guy to build your system

Hi lads, was wondering if anyone has done an upgrade to the rear 6.5" to 8" with a passive filter only letting the 8" play bass sounds? (would be quicker then lets say a 12") I've been thinking on taking out the std sub and making a sub enclosure under the strutbar and then using two 8"s rear and upgrade the fronts with a decent set of 6.5". (was thinking on getting a mold for a bigger front speaker system but not sure it's worth the hazzle) looking at below photo it looks like I could cut out the metal to make it fit a 8 and use a MDF ring to put it in and leave it there... possibly making a fiberglass 'pot' for them? (never worked in fb so that could be a cool lurning curve) Any ideas? / hints?

Delivered to UK $499 Painted everything. no way I'd pay that for just the enclosure! http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php?pr ... t=0&page=1 not painted mind...

btw need to aim for 401 whp and 369 torq now...

looks hard to use the fiberglass stuff... would be cool to try it out though

PS Nurrish I had to change a few fittings on the fuel system .....I didn't want to use our fire extinguisher.......... bad boy......slapped hands. Well spotted... Nice numbers... jelaous is an understatement! take it easy driving that baby now will you?! Think I guessed the torq figure pretty nicely What petrol do you need to run this car now without getting detonation? Not to happy to read that the Z's ECU can't be piggybacked... Oh... when are you going for a full internal rebuild? Well done! Can't wait to splash some monies on my engine!

THERE IS NO DATE IN THE PHOTOS! god damn!

NO! Need to get my finger out of my arse and do it on my own car first, had a look at possibly changing out the battery but looks very hard pushed for space there... do you know any good carpenters in your area? I'd measure (or find a measurement online) for the strutbar width and height then depth it's pretty much flexible really (back or forward) so no need to measure that. With those number approach whoever you decide to buy the element from and tell them you want them to give you a drawing of a box that will fit between the strutbar (and under) if they dont fancy doing that for you... well don't get it there... Once you have drawings of the box you'll need according to your specs and the spec of the element you hand that over to the carpenter and tell him to use MDF (whatever thickness the drawings state)! (I've seen some people using glasfiber to make boxes but not sure how good they are as a material for a box since I've never used it or read up on it). It'll be more expense then you think btw.. it always does There seem to be plenty of knowledge here on building stereo stuff for the Z so you'll be well looked after if you need a hand with anything I'd say. you can PM or mail or chat if you need to ask any more Q's since this thread is kinda all over the place now = me

OK Sarnie .... I've waited long enough ........ please put the apostrophe in we're in your signature Grammar control officer!