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andlid

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Everything posted by andlid

  1. would you not just get a spacers and mrev2 while your down there? (and decats, new XYZ pipe and endbox ) A
  2. The Easy Method: After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light. Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7. 1. Ignition "ON", count to 3. 2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast. 3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal 4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal 5. Count to 10, depress pedal 6. Count to 10, release pedal. 7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done! Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is “ONâ€. 3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. Operation Procedures 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learningâ€. 2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learningâ€. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch “OFF†and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
  3. how exciting!! a little bit of wee came out! look forward to it ROFL
  4. if you have to 'replace' it why not just convert it into a manual ?
  5. Its only missing a few missiles now on the top...
  6. The most accurate way of measuring this is to fill the tank up to the top...record mileage on car drive car... fill car up to the top look at how many litres you got in the tank and look how many miles you got on the trip... TRIPA - TRIPB = TRIP TRIP / GAL = MPG Simples
  7. they antifoulers are on the side of the pipes mate if I've not gone blind . They'd give you more rasp for sure since they're not resonated. You've gone blind Thats just the 02 bungs, you need to buy anti foulers to fit into them Although, if your getting a remap from abbey then don't bother with the antifoulers As for stockists of resonated decats, try Chilli Red or Adam @ Z1
  8. Unsure. I will now go outside (as I reset the ECU last night) and drive like my pants are on fire in Auto. If I'm not posting in an hour, you can assume I have left the planet due to "noticeable gains".
  9. Probably a difficult question but anyone ever monitored how long the ECU "re-learns"? Is it hours/days or weeks? 10 miles...
  10. a bit suprised to hear this... thought I had a LSD... viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1781 Got 17" wheels non brembo but came from the JDM market sold as > version S or something like that... going to have to check if I got a LSD or not Kaaz or Cusco or Nismo diff...
  11. hmm I'm not real sure about the increase in hp until the ecu settles... has someone done a dyno with mods and no reset then on the same day done a reset and dyno to see if the mods and reset increased HP? Pimm, you could be our testmonkey if you're getting it retuned I wouldn't be resetting the ECU, makes no sense in having the ECU relearn itself in 10miles and then have to reset it again... Captain, does that reset the automatic behaviour too or is that located somewhere else?
  12. I'm considering that engine 4.5 for engine only... I wouldn't go down this route if your aim is 400hp-ish with SC. Get a lowish miles Z with the kit mods you are looking for engine mods wont really matter if you're going to push on a SC kit ontop of it with the aim 400hp (fly). I'd keep it as standard as possible to be honest since the yokes I've seen and heard here that has aftermarket exhausts etc get FAR to loud and all of them are looking to swap back to standard or did swap back to standard. If you're going for 400 > then get the engine package mentioned above with the injectors and fuel rails etc (suprised there was no pump involved in the kit so you'd need a walbro type pump too) also haven't a clue what HP that engine build would be able to take, he did mention 10PSI ~ 0.7 bar. With vortech you could go over the stock 'stable' numbers not sure regarding HKS, was in a Vortech one not long ago and it was a bit noisy from the SC sweet suction though with a true nvidia exhaust sounded VERY deep compared to N/A.
  13. they antifoulers are on the side of the pipes mate if I've not gone blind . They'd give you more rasp for sure since they're not resonated.
  14. I reckon it was more likely to be ! Might be for the better until you got this dude to the wall...
  15. cool piccys on the ducts mate. orange will look deadly.
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